http://www.levelzeromotorsports.com/...1f323b86a6a7e0

I was wondering what your thought and opinions were on this product in the fact that you can still use the stock waterpump from what I understand.

 

id just get nbs from zp or ottp less headache

 

Same basic install as the neutral balance shaft and you can keep your water pump instead of running electric if you were to pull them out so from what I under removal of the balance shaft is preferred anyway not sure just testing the waters here maybe ZZP will chime in with some more info. Thanks for the post.

 

these are a bit more to install than the nbs

 

has anyone done a write on the nbs install?

 

a nbs install is remove balance shafts install nbs and u dont have to time the nbs either

 

hell w nbs. get rid of them all together. less rotating mass = more ponies end of story. sure the deletes are a pain in the ass to install but if you are looking into nbs or deletes for that matter you are already ass deep and your engine is already out of the engine bay. deletes are a waste if you ask me.

 

EDIT: some modification is required to make these work on an LSJ. its not just a direct replacement like they make it sound

 

What type of modification is required? I'd probably go with the delete, personally. What's the point in having the extra weight to spin. Just more stress on the entire system that can be gotten rid of.

 

I just placed my order on friday for the bs delete kit.from what I been reading I dont thinks its the hard to install.

 

I just did the balance shaft delete on an LSJ block for $15. Can only use this method when the block is bare before you build it.

First find the center of the bal. shaft rear journal housing and center punch it. Drill the outside wall to 9/16 and tap the hole to 3/8 pipe thread. When you look in the hole you can see the balance shaft bearing . I used a 3/16 bit to drill into the bal shaft oil passage then opened it up to 7/32. Tap it with a 1/8 pipe tap. Clean everything good and block the oil galley with a 1/8 pipe allen. Use plenty of locktite. Finally use a 3/8 allen on the access hole.Next cut the journal off the front of the balance shafts and your ready to go.
















Special thanks goes to Bill Hahn Jr for letting me in on this.

 

Mongo rat, I THINK i'm getting what you are talking about...

Basically, you use the original bearing and gears to create your own delete kit? With the only down side being you have to clean the block/oil galleries really good (IE block disassembled completely) in order to do it safely.

Pretty good trick for someone that has their block apart. Now since my engine is out, I'm starting to contemplate doing this. Along with headwork and a hole mess of other things... Ways to save money and reasons to upgrade other things always get me going...

 

Yep thats it !! Use what you have theory

 

I can see what you did there, but why drill into the block if all you have to do is tap in the bushings that you can get with the kit?












It might be more expensive than the drill/tap that you did but with far less headaches.

 

Took me 1/2 hour. Both methods work good and the sleeve method is permanent.

 

I can understand that. I'm just throwing it out there. I don't have the drill/tap set, so this was an easier option for my build.

 

Does it go in right over top of the old bearing ?

 

sub'd. i wanna rev higher too lol

 

Yep. Just taps into place with an extension, a hammer and a socket that is the same size as the new bushing. It's pretty snug, no worries of coming loose.

 

it seems like removing the balance shaft would put extra strain on the main bearings making them fail prematurely.

the more off balance the rotating assembly is, the more stress you should see in your main bearings hence the entire reason for balancing the engine.

I have no experience with removing the balance shafts, so I was wondering if it creates enough imbalance to make this an issue.

thanks!

 

The balance shafts are simply there to help the engine "run" smoother. (actually just feel smoother) From what I have read, the increase in vibration is negligible with the delete/NBS kits.

 

Right. Has nothing to do with the bearings. Its the harmonics the balance shaftes cut out. Most of our cars are modded so you probably wont even notice it

 

what you did was a permament mod also by opening up that oil galley but still a cheap and decent way of doing it


the balance shafts were put in the engine for driver comfort they do nothing for the balance of the rotating assembly

 

ok got it

 

SaberD has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - Balance Shaft Delete Kit - in the 2.0L LSJ Performance Tech forum of Cobalt SS Network.



Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************
the only mod that should affect the harmonics is by changing to an aftermarket rotating assembly or changing the counterbalance shafts. otherwise, any sort of mod will have no affect whatsoever on the harmonics of the engine. by counterbalancing the second harmonic of the rotating assembly with the counterbalance shafts, the magnitude of force for each duty cycle due to imbalance is less. by increasing the magnitude of imbalance, the force per duty cycle increases. the location at which this force is applied is at the main bearings. this is pretty basic undeniable physics.

I can see this being done for a drag/ track car, but nothing that you would want to last 100k miles. It is my beleif that the engine was designed this way not for driver comfort, but longevity

read the build book it states that the balance shafts were put in for driver comfort jast they are put in almost all engines just for that reason they cancell out harmonics that are created by a running engine

if you want to be able to spin the **** out of it they need to be removed or nb shafts installed and if you think that a built engine is gonna last 100k then your high quit trying to over analyze things