Travi-ss-

did you do that when you got the car or after? if i could still add that on to my loan id be at the dealership tomorrow.

djt81185

You dont need all that crap..Ive tuned cars with 2.6's and not heat exchanger and they run fine...hell ran a 2.5 for along time and so did other people

zzp is 99
my wideband was 275 shipped (tho i HIGHLY recommend one...the tune i use doesnt require one...i have used it on multiple cars and all have an awesome a/f)
downpipe can be had for 200-250
the larger idler means u dont need a stage 2 belt 32 bucks
60lbers can be had for 200 with harness thru supporting vendors
plugs are 8 bucks
i charge 150 a tune

100+250+32+8+200+150 = 732 w/o wideband

heat exchanger can be got for 60 bucks on svt forums if u want
add anther 20-40 for hardware and lines

06black

muwahah, people like you make me giggle

lets here where in your obvious knowledge of LSJ mod'ing( ) why you would use such parts if your on a budget...

so when you use one of the MANY pre-made and dyno proven "safe" tunes by intense, Tag, ect why would you need a WB02? as long as you don't tuch it, its safe all year round!

and the cobra HE is a JOKE there are many logs that show that POS heating up IAT's because people want to put it up in the nose of the car, away from the fans....so guess what happens when you have worm/hot coolant flowing thro a pice of aluminum and you come to a stop light, stuck in traffic, staging lanes at the drag strip, ect with no fans behind it, thus stopping air flow over it....it becomes a a nice looking reverse-heat sink!!! thats good rite?

the coolant will "grab" heat rom the hotter aluminum much easier then it will go the other way....


you can use the stg2 belt if you wish but plenty of people run the 2.6 with just the 70mm idler gear....take this into consideration....a stock belt WITH the larger idler keeps the same amount of tension as a totaly stock set up, so when drooping to a 2.6 from a 2.7 you can see why it works like a charm, once again i only say do this because its a budget build by the looks of things

so as you can see DJT's list works great for the budget....
zzp 2.6"---or the intense pulley if its still on that crazy sale
autolite plugs from intense
intense larger idler
60lbers w/ harness
2.5" catless d/p
custom tune

BlackSS/SC

I'd have to agree with dtj81185 and 06black

Red2.4SS/SC

have fun, blown 4 banger just blew his motor and he had WAY more mods than you guys are suggesting , anyone who runs a 2.6 without a wideband is asking to blow his motor

BlackSS/SC

Wideband is a must!!! I'd be blow up by now if I didn't have one. Now I'm getting scared to slap the 2.6" on with my mods.

martinsmu

No the car is leased, but who cars, it 2.0 interest rate. At the end, instead of 700, might be like 750 at the very most, but I kept the $$ to myself. + Because I was buying a new car, I got a sweeter deal on the install, so BAM, kit cost me the same price, now I just got to pay it month by month.

Travis -ss. Usually you have to get that added at the day of purchase. Unfortuantly salesmens dont know much about about the stage kits, so they just never mention it. When I was buying mine (Aug 06), all the salesman looked at me funny when I started talking stage kits, except this young 23y/o that knew excaly what I was talking about. The dealership never let him install one on his demo, so when I got mine installed, brought him for a spin. Good guy... If you only had your car for a small period of time, you can go and ask, no harm in that.

CobaltBob

djt81185's idea sounds great! but finding someone to install may be a prob. and my friend has HP tuners for his redline, can he tune it?

OZERMAN

hey, my dealership is about an hour from you, and i will sell you the stage 2 kit for 562.50, install for around 200, so... no brainer lol

betterthanbad

Your GM dealer can install any GM product and it will not void warrenty................they are liars. You are also not bound by your original GM dealer who sold you the car.....take it to another one. I can't believe you'd take that crap.

CobaltBob

Sounds like a deal to me..can you PM me with the name of the dealer and some info..THANKS

QUESTION??..This is available from ZZP, its a 2.8'' pully---> "Individual pulleys for the GM stage kit hub. Works with no snout machining and adds 10-20 HP to GM's stage kits. Available in clear or black anodized finish.".........so can this be put on with the stage 2 and not have to retune it??

martinsmu

Dont put anything smaller than 2.9 on a GMPP 42lbs/h (Stage 2) fuel injectors. It maxes out the duty cycle of the injector, and you risk them going static (really not good) Keep in mind that a GMPP s2 pulley is in reality 3.09 and not 3" like they claim. 2.9 is a big step and the max you should go IMO!

Boost Fr33k

go aftermarket broooo! get a gmp exhuast and 3"pulley

06black

i think you just pointed out why the motor blew!!!!!!!

also if you knew anything about just how rich the "off the shelf" tunes run, and add that to the fact that i'm a bit unsure about blow 4's tuning ability(biggest reason why it blew)

i used to run my car, and have a few people who still do run there car around here with a 2.5 with no wideband, if the tune is sound, and year round safe then you wont need one, it can always be added later.

Red2.4SS/SC

blown 4 banger had a steady AFR that was 11.7-11.9 he was pushing 320 WHP the stock pistons straight up COULD NOT HANDLE THE POWER , if anyone can tune it actually is him , he probably had the highest WHP on this site so you saying he doesnt know what hes doing is pretty funny actually , he didnt use an off the shelf tune you must be kidding right ???? just go strap on a 2.5 and the least ammount of supporting mods you want and ill see you in your thread titled "JUST BLEW THE **** OUT OF MY MOTOR LAST NIGHT " and ill be the ******* responding with a "haha your a tool should have listened"

PolishPauL

So i guess the lesson learned for all yous wit pulleys smaller than 2.7" and a ported blower should not put race gas in your car
I jus think 2.7" gives you enough HP and torque unless your REALLY serious bout makin your car the fastest it can be and you have the money to fix any problems. You dont NEED any cooling mods and arent overspinning your blower past 16k RPMs. Your 5 RPMs below I know that thats the constant RPMs it can spin at and it can go up to like 18k burst but is it really worth it?

Red2.4SS/SC

i think a 2.6 with a lot of cooling mods is safe but a 2.6 with a ported blower is pushing it and then race gas , thats pretty much pushing the limits of the stock pistons

djt81185

Ive tuned 8 2.5/2.6 cars...only like 3 have wide bands...0 have blown up.

that said i think 2.6 is the way to go.

dyno has verified my "canned tune" hold a steady 11.8 af +-.1 afr point.

tuning the 2.0 is a whole different ballpark then the 2.4...until u have personal experience with it id watch what u say

06black

well with a car throwing that much fuel over long periods you can have some killer blow by or you might actually wash the the rings and then BAM!

i would NEVER run my car in the 11's AFR at WOT thats just asking for blow by

as for you and him clamming that bullshit number of 320whp, thats laughable rite there!!!
a car thats set up JUST like mine was, with a tune that i KNOW wasent on the level i had mine at due to the professional people i had helping me and with a dyno to do it on!

clameing 320whp is civic style, dont talk until you have a dyno sheet to back it up! you'd be amazed at what it takes to even go from the extremely hard mark of 300whp to the 320whp

i'd be careful when you try to prove me wrong here son, it doesn't happen often and when it does its by farrrrr smarter people then you.

now back to your post.....
I NEVER said blown4 used an off the shelf tune, i said the poster of this topic should to make sure is safe, and safe all year round, when you use a tune like that you dont need a whideband, thats why people get them in the various stage kits and such, you flash the car and bam! no need for any other gauges and such.....i never said "hey dont get one" i simply said for his budget its not needed RITE NOW

as for your asinine comment of "just go strap on a 2.5 and the least ammount of supporting mods you want and ill see you in your thread titled "JUST BLEW THE **** OUT OF MY MOTOR LAST NIGHT"

a 2.5 is a different beast then a 2.6 and if you look at the list that was provided by djt you'll see that all the "support" needed to run that pulley is there, gauges don't count as supporting mods ricer boy.....

CobaltSS1

2.6 pulley and hub- 100
60 lb injectors with harness-200
hp dyno tuner -250
gmpp exhaust- 450

total-1000 and lots of fun

IMADreamer

Wow, just wow. There are a lot of people in this thread claiming to be authorities on this subject when clearly they have no clue. It's sad how much misinformation is spread on this forum.

Your best bang for your 1000 bucks would probably be new mounts all around to help stop wheel hop. You can probably shave 3 tenths or more off your quartermile time with mounts alone, if you're a really bad driver then probably more. Plus you can prevent yourself from breaking your axles which is always a good thing.

If you really think you have to have more horsepower go with stage 2 from someone, TAG, GM or whoever. Be warned that there is a company that is selling canned tunes on here that has had a few engines blow up because one size tune actually doesn't fit all despite popular belief. If you are going to run a really small pulley like a 2.6 you HAVE to have some cooling mods. Whether that be another heat exchanger or a meth injection kit it has to be something. Not doing that is just stupid. You also need some gauges to monitor what you're doing like a wideband, and maybe an interceptor at the least. Once you get over 250 horsepower you're also going to have to get those mounts I was talking about, probably a new clutch, while your at it a new flywheel, and a custom tune. You will not be under 1000$ to run a 2.6 pulley safely.

There are a lot of people posting in this thread who will have blown engines before long. I honestly can't believe the ignorance being passed around here.

djt81185

Ugh..you should take some of your own advice...

bitch moan and disbelieve all u want but a safe 2.6 is easily done for under 1000

u dont NEED cooling mods...a lil water wetter in the intercooler works wonders...

i recommend a wideband and an interceptor but remember if the person has no idea what they are looking at they serve no purpose.

Then again maybe i dont know what im talking about

I mean my car only traps 109 in the 1/4 and is having a custom turbo built right now that I will be tuning

Or a car i tuned for 700 TOTAL running a 2.5 that went 13.4@108 on stock tires

or the other cobalt i tuned with the same setup as above that went 110.

Not the mention the saturn with a 2.6 that went 13.7@106

and the like 6 other cars

No problems on any of em...well one tossed a headgasket while someone else was retuning it...but we think it wasnt so much the tuning as just it made too much boost and overstressed a head bolt.

Then again...maybe I dont know what im talking about

IMADreamer

The problem is you and these cars you worked on don't mind running a little dangerously. A guy with a strict budget should not be living on the edge he should be modding correctly and safely which means supporting mods and instrumentation. Then someone needs to teach him or he needs to educate himself what to look for on the gauges. Telling a guy to push the car and the blower without the proper support is shitty. It's **** poor advice and it's sad that people would do that. You could surely agree that cooling mods don't hurt anything and that if someone wants to ensure the longevity of their engine that it would be a good idea to do them?

I know you didn't say this but someone did, "gauges don't count as supporting mods rice boy.." That statement embodies the shear ignorance that is in this thread. Gauges are rice? Gauges aren't supporting mods? Oh really, real engine builders would disagree, gauges are paramount, especially a wideband.

By the way making 13 second cars does not make you some God of tuning, you can shave a good half second off this cars quartermile times with traction mods alone. The money would be better spent there which would then set you up for more horsepower.

06black

i did say that and you can argue as much as you want, however think before you type.

a gauge does not count as "support" its there to make sure that if and when changes are made they do not cause issues on the car, i did not meen for it to sound like i was calling guages "rice" i have plenty of them in my own car, for monitoring my tune and the changes i make.

once a tune is made, and made to be safe year round you can put that base tune on any car and rest assure that it'll work just fine....

if you needed a gage pack to do a general tune places like tag, intense, ect would have them in there stage kits or at very lest say "hey make sure you have this...."

now as for the ignorance and such you say is in this thread, you might what to take a step back and look at your post, i know i'm not "a tuning god" but my car trapping in the 110's plus my gt30r swap say that i'm pretty good at it...

djt81185

All the cars I tuned are peoples Daily drivers...my car alone was seeing 36,000mi per yr. That is more extreme then most yet i drove it everyday.

Cooling mods dont hurt but they really arent needed unless your hammering on it constantly for more than a 1/4 mile at a time and 1/4 is what most of this board is interested in

I never said I was a tuning "god" but ive made these cars fast AND reliable...all while trapping on average 4 mph higher than a gm stage 2 tune w/ 2.8 I was up almost 30hp to a 2.8, gm stage 2, corsa, gmpp header, intaked car on the same day same dyno...and it was with 0 exhaust work and less invested

Im saying i know a thing or 2 about these cars...compared to most on this board.