ZapFrog

Okay so the first time I broke down this morning, I turned on the ramp to I-77, gave it some gas to get up to speed quickly. As soon as it hits boost, it slams down hard as h*ll and says "reduced engine power".. No power to the engine what-so-ever and the RPM's are bouncing from 200-2000 and the whole car is shaking. I pull over and shut it off.. I sit there for about 2 minutes in embarrassment, and i started it up again and it was fine.. I start going again and 5-10 minues down the highway, I was going up a hill and i looked at my boost gauge and it was almost in boost, I pressed slightly on the gas and it seen boost and slammed down and did the same thing agian.. I stopped at a Advanced auto to get the code checked.. The guy said the MAF and MAP sensors arent reading correctly what they should. one is off and thus screwing the ECU up.. I just bought a new MAF and MAP sensor less than 2 months ago.. Does anybody know the problem? I put a new intake on it in May. This happened a few times back in may/june, but it stopped.. now all of a sudden, its back! Does anybody know a fix for this ? I'm sorry, im having a hard time looking on this forum for previous posts. I'm at work on a crappy PC and its making it difficult lol. If anybody has had the same problems, please let me know! I drive a total of 2 hours everyday for work.

insylem

You mentioned you went to Advanced to get the codes read. Did they tell you exactly what codes you are getting? Knowing the exact codes can help us help you.

What was your reasons for chaging those sensors before?
What mods do you have?
Did you change your oil filter recently? I only ask because I made the mistake of not plugging in that lil sensor by the oil filter and when I got on the gas, It went "Engine Power Reduced")

Possible bad gas?

MookiEboLT

Nvr heard no ish like this befor... like the guy said above.. maybe its the oil filter.. or a clogged fuel filter??.. i would check the vacuum hoses also..

Im problly wrong but just tryin to put some ideas out there..

ZapFrog

I bought the sensors in May, I bought them because I thought that was the problem. I changed them and come to find out, that wasnt the problem. so I put the good older sensors in and it stopped. I always do my oil changes myself, my last oil change was 2000 miles, 6 weeks ago.. I did a vacuum leak test and it's not that.. Thats what I originally thought myself. But the guy at Advanced auto knows what hes talking about. I'll text him in a little bit to find out what exactly that all meant. He said this morning that it was the MAF and MAP sensor... It's not the sensors though... ugh..

Bad-A-SS

iTrader: (3)

The only times mine has done this is when my tb came unplugged and sounded like it had a big cam in it. Might have a short in the wiring some where. And just bc it says it's reading right doesn't always man it is trust me.

CannonBalt

Mine did this, threw a catalytic converter code.

insylem

Make sure all your connectors are connected. If something came disconected like the guy before the guy before me posted maybe that's it.

Also,
If your sensors did go bad, something could have made them go bad and made the new ones go bad too. Not really sure. Knowing exact codes would help. So would having Freeze frame data.

cranemaster

Mine did this, was puffing white/black/blue (not really sure it was night, but wacky colors). extremely rough idle, car ran fine 10 min prior...

This happened the day after my IC blew up, and I went to start the car to drive it to the dealership.

Got towed, end result was some sorta sensor in the engine.. il have to look at my records to figure out what exactly I dont remember sorry!

cmiller8006

iTrader: (3)

My car had a similar issue when I had a broken wire in harness for the wastegate solenoid.

ZapFrog

Well if he scanned it and said it was the MAF and MAP sensor, i'm guessing its something with the airflow.. so im guessing either intake problem or supercharger problem. what do you guys think?

MookiEboLT

Get it scanned.. see what pops up... Also check your fuses.. sumtimes a burnt out fuse can throw a crazy amount of codes and make the car have a ruff idle and spudder...

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

My car did this with a dirty throttle body.
Clean TB and MAF.

ZapFrog

I cleaned my Throttle body about 2500-3500 miles ago.. I used to have a dirty TB problem with my old base model Balt. It would stall out everytime I came to a stop, so I found that problem out lol. Its not the TB, I haven't tried cleaning the MAF, but I put another one in it and its still doing it.

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

What're your mods?

ULWizSS

iTrader: (5)

Gonna lean towards the MAF.

ZapFrog

Only thing aftermarket is my intake... Other than that, I think its stock...

ZapFrog

Okay, I talked to my buddy and he said its my intake.. I think I paid $100 for it off ebay. I guess its a no-name brand and its junk... great...

Bad-A-SS

iTrader: (3)

Have someone check your wiring for a short and also have your tb sensor checked

Bad-A-SS

iTrader: (3)

Why would the intake have anything to do with it, unless the couplers are letting unmeasured air in or the maf flange is letting in unmeasured air

ZapFrog

Thats what im going to do when I get off work.. Im going to make sure all the couplers are seated correctly.. He specifically said " get on css.net and find all the ebay intake failure threads"

ironhead

Did you get it fix and what was it thanks

Rubbermaid_LSJ

iTrader: (1)

If its a cheapo ebay intake/filter they for sure can cause problems... Especially if its a really short element or the element doesnt flow well (common in cheaper filter elements). You gotta let the car breathe... ESPECIALLY in boost.

I had a buddy with a N/A car that would run fine, but once he got above 4k or so the car would lurch something fierce.

I'm assuming you're hitting boost and the filter simply cannot flow any more air. Your MAF/MAP arent seeing enough airflow for your given boost/throttle and the PCM is cutting fuel WAY out.


Try running it without the filter around the block or something. It's dry enough in winter to not cause any real damage from pollutants entering the engine. Just make sure that you don't have anything that could accidentally get sucked into the intake. Otherwise you can put a larger cone on it or the stock box back if that scares you too much.

xtremecavy

iTrader: (3)

Make sure the MAF isn't dirty, if so it's not reading all the air entering engine and you're air/fuel mixture isn't correct choking it out under boost... This is common as well as dirty tb causing idling issues

xtremecavy

iTrader: (3)

Also have your fuel pressure checked to make sure pump isn't weak, very bad especially under boost, drive it normal and stay out of boost until this is fixed!

phatnackySS

I bet its the Throttle body..more precisely its the TPS inside the TB but its all one piece so the whole thing has to be replaced. I bet the code that was read was a P0068 ...its the only one that mentions both map and maf,he must have left out the TPS part. (P0068 MAP/MAF - Throttle Position Correlation)

Same thing happened to me , i cleaned the maf and the TB , problem went away for like month. I got a P0068 code . I got a few other codes but they were not as constant as the p0068, I reset the ECM problem went away but would randomly pop back up from time to time until it got to the point where i couldn't drive the car 2 feet without it going into limp mode ,i then started to get p0120 and p0121 codes which are tps malfunction codes. Replaced the TB with a junkyard unit ,haven't had a problem since. (about a year)