2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

engine power reduced, Engine Disabled warning

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Old 04-30-2010 | 03:45 AM
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engine power reduced, Engine Disabled warning

Okay so this is like the 3rd or 4th time this has happened to me, start the car fine no cel runs great. after a few min, driving or idle, i get a warning pop up and say Engine Power Reduced. It can still drive like that but it wont accelerate like at all, full throttle i gain 1-2 mph every 3 sec or so.(did this once just to see i know it not good for the car) When i come to a stop i get 2 warning, the Engine Power reduced and Engine disabled. I can start it back up sometimes but it either 1) dies right away and get those two messages beeping at me again. 2) drive it for a few min and happens again or 3) starts up and sounds like its constantly backfiring.

last time i had to replace my TB get new throttle positioning sensors, and some other things i cant remember. Put in a brand new battery (that fixed the problem for someone else on the forum)

i am out of ideas on what to do, im having someone come log the car on saturday to see if there is anything thats wrong with the tune( its trifecta) and maybe vince can fix it.

anyone have any ideas on what it can be?


expect a part out soon if this doesnt get fixed turbo ss maybe.

bumping for some help here lol

Last edited by Viceversa10; 04-30-2010 at 03:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 04-30-2010 | 03:50 AM
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sounds like fuel pressure issues....
Old 04-30-2010 | 03:54 AM
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By backfiring do you mean it sounds like a subaru? Cuz what ur describing almost sounds like a blown cylinder or some serious timing issue.
Old 04-30-2010 | 04:02 AM
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timing was perfect according to vince, how would i be able to tell if it was a blown cylinder. and how can i check my fuel pressure.

back fire as in a high amount of popping best way i can describe it is the sound of making popcorn lol.
Old 04-30-2010 | 08:45 AM
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Not the timing in your tune, the engine itself may have jumped out of time somehow. That's about the only thing I can come up with. As far as blown cylinder, compression test. Anything below 160psi I think is bad
Old 04-30-2010 | 04:17 PM
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alright i'll have to take it to a shop then and get it checked out. thanks for the help
Old 05-10-2010 | 12:20 PM
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this same thing is happening to me as of right now...what was the problem?? and how did you fix it?
Old 05-10-2010 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ~Mike~
Not the timing in your tune, the engine itself may have jumped out of time somehow. That's about the only thing I can come up with. As far as blown cylinder, compression test. Anything below 160psi I think is bad
That number sounds right, but as a general rule of thumb all of the pistons should be within 10 of eachother. If you have 210, 210, 170, 210 you still probably have a failed piston.

As a sanity check, clean all your sensors, but odds are if you just got tuned, it's the tune that's ******* up your car.
Old 05-10-2010 | 04:27 PM
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happened to me before as well. just make sure you didnt miss plugging in a sensor like i did
Old 05-10-2010 | 08:45 PM
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My car is displaying the eng pwr reduced and is throwing a CEL P2135 (throttle position sensor) i cleaned my throttle body which made the idle 100% better..but it still wont allow me to go over 50-55km/h...and it doesnt even come close to using boost...any help or tips would be very helpful...

(friday i did a full GMPP stg2 swap...blower swap (but used my original throttle body), PCM with GMPP stg2 flash and 42lb injectors...car go the crank case re-learn done by a buddy with hpt..could my car be in a safe mode cause the VIN on the PCM isnt my VIN?

Jason
Old 05-10-2010 | 09:11 PM
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i went through the same exact thing...my problem was my intake manifold was cracked and my throtle body was bad. check is when ur first goin to start the car, if the throtle body clicks once then its good if it stays clickin more than once meaning continiously then its bad. i had this same exact issues and hated it. i hope this helps. another thing just so u can check, is ur primary o2 sensor. with those backfires u are noticing thats how i blew my primary o2 sensor without knowing. trust me it could be more than one thing. keep us posted. i doupt is a cilinder and hopefully is not. GL man
Old 05-11-2010 | 02:03 AM
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went outside to my car after dinner..turned it on..didnt display eng pwr reduced...drove it down the street...it actually allowed me to hit boost...car ran for over 20mins with no issue..21mins after starting it up..the eng pwr reduced came on again and it wouldnt let me go over 55km/h with no boost at all...i think my car is in some kind of safe more..im thinking i have to get my VIN programmed into the PCM that i got off a buddy...any ideas or thoughts?

Jason
Old 05-11-2010 | 12:52 PM
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Wait, you're using a PCM your buddy gave you and didn't do a full write? That's probably the problem right there. If it was from a different model year the PCM you put in could be looking for sensors off the old car that yours doesn't have.

You'd best be served putting the old PCM on, and just having your buddy copy the stg2 tables to your tune and flashing it on.
Old 05-11-2010 | 06:11 PM
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ya, we did a blower swap and pcm swap...his car was going in on lease..i did the crank case re-learn...car ran good for 2days then the eng pwr reduced came on..and i got a code P2135..i checked all my wires, and connections, everything was in place..i took my throttle body off...cleaned it and it made my idle 100% better..but still didnt solve my eng reduced or remove the CEL.
my last idea is to get my VIN flashed to my PCM..thinking it might be in safe mode or something..

Jason

bump...Help lol

Last edited by redbalt; 05-11-2010 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 05-12-2010 | 01:37 AM
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From: Milton
early morning bump
Old 05-12-2010 | 10:06 AM
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just for the record..did u checked ur primary o2 sensor? it gave me a hard time finding out what it was when this happened to me. turns one it was blown
Old 05-12-2010 | 10:42 AM
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why would it give the code P2135 (throttle position sensor), and be a o2 sensor...
Old 05-12-2010 | 10:52 AM
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cuz i had the same issues and just giving an option for u to check and solve this problem...if its not that either then u have to keep lookin in order to fix ur car...just saying.
Old 05-12-2010 | 11:51 AM
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your car had the same CEL as me (P2135) and the problem with your car was the o2 sensor??..if thats so im gunna have to check mine..
Old 05-12-2010 | 11:58 AM
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it was a while ago, i cant remember if it threw that cel because mine had like 4 cels that i had to fix. but for sure i had the same issues ur having now. i also ended up getting a new throttle body and that fixed it the last time it happened along with the o2 sensor. cause all that backfire blew it in half. trust me it was funny seen a blown o2 sensor cuz i had never heard or seen one. but now i know it could happen.
Old 05-12-2010 | 12:27 PM
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https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/problems-service-maintenance-69/car-died-after-acceleration-212271/

i had pretty much the same problem.
first time i was getting on the highway riding 3rd @ about 4500 5000rpm traffic clears , i press down on the gas hit boost hear a pop, so i push in the clutch and the car stalls. i let the clutch back out i hear the engine restart, but the tach isnt working. i flip the key off and back on while still moving , and the car starts to back fire like crazy,sounded like anti lag. i pull over turn the car off check it all out on the side of the highway. i decided to try to restart it and it ran fine for a few days.i got no cel or message.

second time it happened it was the same kind of event i was riding 3rd high as i was waiting for the car in front of me to move over , i press down on the gas i hear a pop ,but this time i got engine power reduced and p068 code. pull over ,let it sit, restarted and ran fine.

so i get home pull the TB and Maf off and they were both filthy ,and there was oil in the intake tube.
i cleaned both, and haven't had a problem yet(about a week). one thing i have noticed is my MPG has gone up 2-3miles and the car idles like butter.

looks like thies cars develop some nasty blow by, im gonna look into a catch can.
looks like oil runs down the intake tube and into the air filter were it contaminates the MAF.
i hope this was the only problem.
Old 05-12-2010 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by redbalt
ya, we did a blower swap and pcm swap...his car was going in on lease..i did the crank case re-learn...car ran good for 2days then the eng pwr reduced came on..and i got a code P2135..i checked all my wires, and connections, everything was in place..i took my throttle body off...cleaned it and it made my idle 100% better..but still didnt solve my eng reduced or remove the CEL.
my last idea is to get my VIN flashed to my PCM..thinking it might be in safe mode or something..

Jason

bump...Help lol
In short, it's not because your VINs don't match up, it's because the sensors aren't matching your PCM. You never mentioned the P2135 before, but that's probably because the wiring for the pedal sensors was different between your car and his.

Get your old PCM, edit the tables like your friend should have done in the first place, and your car should work.
Old 05-12-2010 | 07:00 PM
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well

i didnt read the whole thread so idk if you found your problem but that same thing happened to my car, it ended up being my barometric pressure sensor, looks just like the map sensor thats on the supercharger, but its right next to it by the fuel rail close to the head, that should be whats causeing it
Old 05-12-2010 | 07:12 PM
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I've had this happen a million times with my car. It's either the MAF or the BARO everytime. Call up Crate Engine Depot, I got the BARO for like $60.
Old 05-13-2010 | 12:19 AM
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im almost 95% sure its the TB...its making loud clicking noises when key turns to on position...listened to a buddies...and its like night and day..his is one click...mine is several...sounds like grinding...



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