2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Found a fix... CEL with CAI

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Old 03-14-2006, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cobaltss12
I have the JBP CAI on my 06 SS/SC Cobalt. I have had a check engine light for a couple of weeks. Through dyno testing at Alamo and several different opinions, I decided to go with new spark plugs. The problem with the CAI, is that, and Im sure everyone knows this, is that when you put a CAI on, more air is being forced through the blower, thus causing the engine to not know how much fuel to mix with the incoming air. The Air/Fuel ratio is fucked. You can do a couple of options...

1. Get a MAF Translator. Works well, but all your doing is tricking the MAF Sensor and computer.
2. Get bigger fuel injectors and a miniAFC. Works well too, but your spending a good piece of money.
3. Upgrade spark plugs.

My Air/Fuel ratio was off the chart. Seriously! On high end RPM, close to 6000RPMs, I was pushing very lean fuel injection. On low end RPMs, idle and low 2000RPM range, I was extremely rich... 16 to be exact. The chart only goes to about 14 or so.

I was told by the GM Performance group, through different channels of contact, that our stock spark plugs, do not give the best "spark" and thus, they do not ignite all the fuel being injected with more air flow. Everybody says that Iridium spark plugs are not the way to go, but straight from the GM Performance group, I was told that with more air flow(CAI, Airbox mod, or whatever) you will need better spark plugs to give you more spark, to ignite all the fuel.

So, I went out and bough some NGK Iridium IX spark plugs. I put them in myself, which is not hard at all, expect for the last plug, and then turned the key. It took about 4 minutes of ideling, but the CEL went off, and I no longer heard a "knock." The "knock" was the injectors, told to me by the GM Performance group. With better spark plugs to ignite more fuel with more air... you will correct the CEL thrown when you put a CAI on the SS/SC. I have also noticed a tad bit better reaction time with revving the engine. Theres a delay when revving because our cars are "drive by wire" setup.

I went back to Alamo to get re-dynoed and the Air/Fuel ratio was in normal range. I cant be 100% positive on this fix, but its a damn good way to try. Just thought Id share the good news. Well, it was good news for me anyways.

David
Interesting...I'll be dynoing wednesday to see my numbers and A/F ratio. Are those iridium plugs stock heat range BTW?
EDIT: I found these on sparkplugs.com(the top plug) and I beleive that's the stock heat range. Are these what I need? BTW, I have intake and exhaust...
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1430991
Old 03-14-2006, 12:54 AM
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This being my first dynoed car ever...I'm doing the baseline test with is 2 runs. I'm wondering if I pick up a set of these NGK iridiums(stock heat range) will they allow me to do a run with the stock plugs then the iridiums?
Old 03-14-2006, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RedSS30
What was your experience with your new plugs?? I just installed an Injen CAI and got a CEL of course. I am also looking for a quick fix.

Here is some info I found from NGK's Website on the subject

"Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionise (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need."

A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximises burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark"

"To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air/fuel mixture, to survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine's spark plugs, and to achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance"


Here is a link to dispell any myths that platinum is superior to irridium. NGK spent alot of time researching the subject and give you their findings on their site.

http://www.ngkspark.com.au/feature_index.htm


After all my readings, I have concluded that it is possible that after adding a CAI to our cars, we increase air, the ECU (most likely) increases fuel to compensate, but our stock sparks are not designed to handle the new air/fuel mixture so cannot burn the new mixture resulting in a CEL. After all, the sparks GM added to the LSJ were for "stock" air/fuel mixtures. So logically one must assume that by adding more fuel/air one must add more spark to burn it.
Again, the CEL (after installing a CAI) is caused by the P0171 code, which means the air fuel mixture is leaner. It has nothing to do with the spark plugs or any misfiring. The CEL goes on when you're cruising, when the air fuel mixture is at least 20% leaner than stock for at least 2 minutes.
Old 03-14-2006, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmc007
Again, the CEL (after installing a CAI) is caused by the P0171 code, which means the air fuel mixture is leaner. It has nothing to do with the spark plugs or any misfiring. The CEL goes on when you're cruising, when the air fuel mixture is at least 20% leaner than stock for at least 2 minutes.
I totally understand that point but hey so what if I still get a CEL, I'll still have better plugs
I'll find out tommorow hopefully if the iridiums help the lean condition if they let me change the plugs between runs.
Old 03-14-2006, 06:29 PM
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You will get a CEL with the new plugs as well I got mine yesterday and the light went off...for 60 miles They are NGK BKR7EIX-11 (one step colder), butt dyno say's better throttle response but could be psycho sematicDamn light came back on after 60 miles ugh.

Last edited by d_backer1; 03-15-2006 at 12:08 AM.
Old 03-14-2006, 09:37 PM
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Thats really weird that it sets a lean code after just an intake.......I'm surprised it had that big of an effect on the fuel trim. Typically, it takes a pretty good vacuum leak or other failure for that DTC to set.

The MAF should see the increased airflow and adjust for this.....which is all in the calculations BEFORE fuel trim is accounted for.

What exactly is this MAF translator mod or whatever you guys do?

Its also really weird that spark plugs fixed the problem......because a P0171 means that the PCM saw a lean A/F ratio at the O2 sensor over 20% for a pretty long time. It corrects the A/F by adjust the injector on time. This means bigger injectors.......and programing to go with those bigger injectors as the PCM is calibrated for X lb/hour injectors.
Old 03-15-2006, 05:51 PM
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Wow i think i picked up the right plugs, TR55IX Stock #7164, but i got mine for $15 Cdn
Old 09-18-2007, 03:20 PM
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Still running those plugs Jmac88 ? Just curious ...
Old 09-18-2007, 05:47 PM
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Just a tip, when you change your plugs to whatever heat range, style, type etc. DO NOT USE ANTISIEZE!! Use a drop of clean motor oil on the threads. Reason for this is that antisieze acts as an insulator, making that one or two heat range spark plug pretty poor at doing its job as it wont conduct heat away from the cylinder head.
Old 10-19-2007, 02:51 PM
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Good advice,

Originally Posted by Rippin07
Just a tip, when you change your plugs to whatever heat range, style, type etc. DO NOT USE ANTISIEZE!! Use a drop of clean motor oil on the threads. Reason for this is that antisieze acts as an insulator, making that one or two heat range spark plug pretty poor at doing its job as it wont conduct heat away from the cylinder head.
and the anti seize also prevents you from getting the correct torque reading when torquing the plugs - best IMHO is to use nothing but have good clean threads on the spark plug and in the engine head. However, NGK TR55IX Stock #7164 are .708" reach with tapered end and are incorrect for the LSJ, which take the BKR7EIX Stock #2667, which are 3/4" (.750) reach w/ISO Projected and use a metal gasket that must be compressed (properly torqued to 15# according to the LSJ factory shop manual, or 20# according to NGK) when installed for proper heat transfer to the cylinder head. The TR55IX plugs fit LS-I/LS-II engines found in GM vehicles like 2004-2006 GTO's etc., and probably do not fit far enough into the head as they are .042" shorter reach. They might work, but they are also more of a projected tip plug than the BKR7EIX. I would not use the TR55IX as they are a different design than the BKR7EIX and might damage the spark plug seat in the head, or cause other problems down the road.

Something else worth considering on these CEL's with CAI kits. I notice that Ford includes a programmer with their CAI kits. I contacted a couple of the aftermarket CAI companies re/CEL concerns, and was told that the cars PCM could make the necessary adjustments for the CAI add on. One manufacturer said that their intake setup would benefit from tuning, however it is not necessary. I notice that JBP claims in their advertising that "there's no Check Engine Lights with our system either. Just give the the ECM 20 minutes of driving to accomodate for the added component. After this interval, you'll notice a huge increase in power." JBP also guarantees satisfaction with their product, so if a person is unhappy with it they should be able to return it for a refund.

I read somewhere that if the MAF is relocated to a different position, upstream/downstream for example, the PCM needed to be recalibrated. I don't know if this is the case with the JBP CAI.

It also appears if there is a great enough increase in air flow with the added on CAI, some recalibration is necessary. Whether or not the PCM can adjust/compensate enough to accomodate a large increase in air flow, is the question.

No doubt the correct, best performing and most accurate procedure would be to recalibrate the PCM after adding on a CAI.

Doc

Last edited by mrdoc442; 10-19-2007 at 05:39 PM.
Old 10-22-2007, 02:59 AM
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Using anti seize on plugs is fine as long as you just put a very very small dab on a few threads (not covering all the threads). Most people goop it on like crazy and thats what causes any problems. There ain't no way in hell id put a plug in a aluminum head without it, although I know lots of people that don't put anything on threads and never have problems. I figure why take a chance.
Old 10-23-2007, 11:08 PM
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A lot of folks

Originally Posted by sscobaltscZ06
Using anti seize on plugs is fine as long as you just put a very very small dab on a few threads (not covering all the threads). Most people goop it on like crazy and thats what causes any problems. There ain't no way in hell id put a plug in a aluminum head without it, although I know lots of people that don't put anything on threads and never have problems. I figure why take a chance.
think like you. I did also until I twisted of some lug bolts on my drag car (with a star (+) tire wrench), that had anti-seize on them. I couldn't believe how easy it was to twist them off. They didn't seem like they were all that tight, tightening them by hand as I was doing. Twisted them off smooth as butter.

However, if , as I said, you don't over-torgue the plugs, and insure the threads on the plugs and head are clean, do the procedure when the engine is cold etc., there should be no problem getting them out eventually when it is time to change them. If the threads are dirty, and you chose to not clean them, anti-seize may be a better idea, used very sparingly, as you said.

As far as I know the spark plugs when installed at the factory do not not have anti-seize in their threads

The server is acting up, so if this sends multiple times, so sorry.

Doc

Last edited by mrdoc442; 10-23-2007 at 11:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 01-09-2011, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by nick11
OK now im really starting to get confused I use these forums as like a bible for modding my car yet its hard when I get conflicting information. I was told that certain intakes cause a cel yet its harmless and was not causing any real problems it was an error in the computer that was showing the cel to light up.


I also gathered that the injen intake would not cause this problem ? If aftermarket cai is causing any problems at all I would like to know so I can simply put in a high flow filter and leave it be.
I have an Injen CAI ... and my Cel keeps coming up after I clear it. most of the time it has to do with the MAF sensor(intake temperature sensor or something) and O2 sensor(mostly the intake temp sensor). I just changed the plugs and injectors so I will need a tune before starting her up. Hopefully the problem will be fixed.
Old 01-10-2011, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Newb
I have an Injen CAI ... and my Cel keeps coming up after I clear it. most of the time it has to do with the MAF sensor(intake temperature sensor or something) and O2 sensor(mostly the intake temp sensor). I just changed the plugs and injectors so I will need a tune before starting her up. Hopefully the problem will be fixed.

Try using an AEM dryflow replacement filter instead of the oiled Injen filter. That should most likely solve your problem.

Last edited by ViSiONZ; 01-10-2011 at 01:12 PM.
Old 01-11-2011, 04:38 AM
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I'll try that ..... I'm in the middle of totally modding the car out .... so i probably wont know it everything is fixed until I start her up in the spring. Anyone know if you use a credit with hptuners everytime you make a change or is it so many credits/car and you can make as many changes as you want to that specific car?
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