SmokinSam06

Me and my buddy installed his S3 heat exchanger from zzp yesterday but his temp hasn't dropped at all if anything its gone up, 190's most of the time, he has 2.8in pulley from Ottp with 60s cai header do and exhaust.also whenever me an him do a pull against my tc were about dead even or I pull a Fender on top end but last night after the h/e install we did a pull and i pulled by a. Couple cars so obviously something is not right, we're pretty sure we installed everything right but who the hell knowa, any input you guys could give would be awesome!

Thanks

LobstaBisque

iTrader: (2)

First off if you are looking at the Coolant temp in the dash, that isnt reading the coolant in the heat exchanging system. However if you do feel there is an issue make sure you bled the system fully and correctly.

blake05SS

omg

SmokinSam06

Why omg? I'm asking a question, this is a forum and I need help if your gonna be. A douche do it somewhere else,

Lobsta -. What do u mean by bleed it correctly?

RooTBeeR

iTrader: (4)

kinked hose or its not thoroughly bled

thedude411

iTrader: (1)

It takes a while to get all the air outta the system. Put more fuild in let it cycle then repeat. But ya... Dont look at your coolant temp gauge. U need to look at ur iat2 temps.

SmokinSam06

How long does it take to fully let all the air out? So do we need to bleed out all the radiator fluid?

blake05SS

its a completly different cooling system u cant look at ur dic it tells u ur engine coolant temps completly different...and im not a douche

SmokinSam06

Well i didnt know that BUD

troyss

Um anyone GUY that uses the OMG is in fact a big duper douche

SmokinSam06

^ rolf! So bleed it completely and let it air out?

troyss

Yup bleed it. It will take a while, just keep filling and check ovee a weeks period

LobstaBisque

iTrader: (2)

On your stock heat exchanger on the top of it is a littke screw to the left. You gota open that and let the air bleed out ofthe system otherwise ur just pumping warm air around and its not doing its job

LSJ

Drive the car, get it nice and warm, open the hood, SLOWLY take off the cap from the filler neck, and you will hear it "gurgle". This is the air being relieved from the system. Fill it up, and you're good to go.

Repeat.

paddock

iTrader: (2)

One way to gauge if it's full or not. Keep track how much coolant you lost when you did the install (some will always come out of the lines when you re-plumb it), and add that to the, roughly, 1.8L capacity of the S3 H/E.
In easier words, if you've only added a a quart to the system, it's not done bleeding yet..

This would be a lot easier if you had the Option B set up.

And, am I understanding, you don't have an Interceptor?

xnigelx

iTrader: (1)

get a option b.... also i turn my ignition on so the pump turns on then i blow into the filler to push the fluid through the system obviously u dont wanna push air in there so make sure its full enough. You know its properly bleed when its swirling around in there pretty good. Took me about 30 minutes to bleed mine without an option B

LSJ

Yep, that's what I did also.

What exactly do you mean?

paddock

iTrader: (2)

You have to re-plumb your cooling system when you add a FMHE. When you pull the lines off, a small amount of coolant will come out of the lines..

lilhomieb07

Ok wow alot of good and bad info.

First off. Are you running this in with the stock h/e and do u have dualpass endplate with opt b?

Another thing is, i had this same issue the iats were like 150-160 after we installed my h/e come to find out we had to swap the IC hose from the stock h/e to the pump and then the hose to the pump the the s3. But i also have dualpass endplate, zzp s3, opt b and stock h/e so u might wanna go to zzp and look at how they have it routed with no dualpass.

All i know is u might need to swap a hose so the coolant flows the right way and if u dont have opt b and u dont bleed it with the screw on the stock h/e ur not gonna do anything ull be at 190 iats all day everyday let alone ur pump will prolie go out if isnt already, 190 is still pretty high for adding a h/e, when my pump went out the highest i saw were 160 iats.

RooTBeeR

iTrader: (4)

my pump died with dual pass and fmhe and my iats were easily 180-190 cruising and 220+ after a pull

LSJ

Oh, yes. I read your statement wrong the first time.

In any case, I would just drain all of it and put all new Dex-Cool in there. I mean why not. You're down there anyway.

1. Stock routing with NO dual-pass is: Stock IC "out", to FMIC "in" (For the record, the "in" of the FMIC is the top fitting, I have seen this asked before), then FMIC "out" to back to pump.

2. Correct, just take off the screw and fill it up until it comes out of the hole. Put the screw back in, and keep filling through the neck.

SmokinSam06

We did everything you guys and his car is still slower than before the h/e.. so my next. Question is, would the h/e throw the tune off to where it would make the car slower meaning it needs to be retuned with the h/e dialed in?

redcobalt07

iTrader: (18)

What should the IAT be around if you have a zzp heatexchanger?

RooTBeeR

iTrader: (4)

if the h/e is installed and working properly there is no way it will make the car slower and a retune is not needed, but you might be able to get a few more ponies out of it due to cooler iat's

ecot3c inside

iTrader: (11)

why would you need to bleed air out of your IC system?? there is obviously a hose dangling on the filler neck, it bleeds it's self, you just have to make sure that there is enough coolant so the pump doesn't see any dead space.