I have a 05 cobalt ss/sc...I replaced the clutch a few thousand miles ago..about 2 weeks ago I lost all clutch pedal so I blead the clutch and it came back.. i looked for leaks with none found. So i figured it was the slave cylinder at the pedal...once that was replaced and blead I'm getting good pedal it feels like but it bites right off the floor...I've tried every bleeding technique i can think of... it has new flywheel,clutch,throwout and now the slave..I replaced the clutch pipe,elbow and hoses as well...anyone have any input on what it could be? I have another trans if needed but if I can figure this out I'd rather go that way.

 

You didn't mention replacing the master cylinder which is the only thing you didn't replace. Be sure to bench bleed it first before installing.

 

The master is the throwout bearing

 

The throwout bearing is the slave I guess lol..idk one of em but it's all new from the pedal all the way.

 

And I forgot to mention that 2nd and reverse is very notchy...idk if it has anything to do with the clutch or not...it started at the same time so I figured it is.

 

Okay cool. The master cylinder is what the foot pedal actuates, that could give you hell.

Story time, may not be relevant but worth a shot: I have a 2006 Solstice that I sometimes struggle with bleeding or at least it takes a while to get all the air out, pretty much every time I disconnect the clutch line, here are 3 notable things I learned the hard way:

1) The manual calls to apply vacuum then release vacuum. From my observations doing it so many times, the vacuum alone doesn't cause bubbles to flow into the reservoir, but when vacuum is released and pulled again without pumping the pedal is when the bubbles flow. It's the repeated act of applying vacuum then releasing sequentially before pumping the pedal. I personally do 5 vacuum cycles then 5 pedal pumps, repeated until 3 times in a row I do not see bubbles moving into the reservoir.

2) If you replaced the master cylinder, you need to bench bleed it. Easy way is to take the clutch pipe that goes to the slave cylinder and dunk it in a clear container (pop bottle) of clutch fluid lower than the master, then 'slowly' pump keeping the main reservoir full with a pause on each side of the pedal cycle. The open end of the clutch pipe needs to be submerged because when you release the pedal it will pull air back in if it's not under fluid. If possible get a spare clutch pipe, cut it back to keep the factory quick disconnect o-ring fitting and use clear tubing to make it a lot clearer what's going on.

3) This burned me the weekend before last, relevant if your car's clutch reservoir shares fluids with brake reservoir (kinky). Watch for rogue bubble in the main reservoir even though it looks full, I kept bench bleeding the master and it kept pushing air. My car was on level ground and I filled it to about 0.250" from spilling out of the reservoir. I topped it off completely with a rag under it to catch spill and a big blurp happpened which was the rogue air bubble escaping, from there the master cylinder bled out and the clutch came back like normal following the 1) I explained above.