How long should the engine cool before spark plug change?
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How long should the engine cool before spark plug change?
I'm stopping by the auto parts store to pick up some Autolite 3923's (CopperCore) or NGK BKR7E's.
Our engine is aluminum alloy right? How long should I let it cool before changing the plugs out?
Our engine is aluminum alloy right? How long should I let it cool before changing the plugs out?
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Originally Posted by 1stbluSS
ERRR.... about 5 mins ? Where the plugs are you will not feel much heat. By the time you pull them out of that long tunnel they are in they will be cool to touch
#7
since it is aluminum, and spark plugs are steel, you want to let it cool off to where you can touch the valve cover and not burn your hand. Warm is fine, but if you cant leave your hand there for 10 seconds, its too hot. Many of guys have screwed up their heads by having a 200 degree motor and then changing the plugs. Be cautious, let it cool.
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http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/70/127/
Whether you do or not, is up to you. Like I said, I like to take all precautions I can when I'm working on my own car.
Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage.
#10
quote from the above posted link:
Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage. Before installing the spark plugs, make sure the threads are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, run a thread chaser through the plug opening in the cylinder head. Most plug manufacturers recommend that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head.
Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage. Before installing the spark plugs, make sure the threads are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, run a thread chaser through the plug opening in the cylinder head. Most plug manufacturers recommend that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head.
#11
Originally Posted by big_mike
quote from the above posted link:
Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage. Before installing the spark plugs, make sure the threads are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, run a thread chaser through the plug opening in the cylinder head. Most plug manufacturers recommend that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head.
Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage. Before installing the spark plugs, make sure the threads are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, run a thread chaser through the plug opening in the cylinder head. Most plug manufacturers recommend that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head.
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Ok, I finally got around to swapping the plugs. One thing I noticed is that my stock plugs were gapped at .035. I gapped the Autolite 3923's to .040. I hope this won't cause a performance downgrade?
#13
Originally Posted by InfiniteEffect
Ok, I finally got around to swapping the plugs. One thing I noticed is that my stock plugs were gapped at .035. I gapped the Autolite 3923's to .040. I hope this won't cause a performance downgrade?
My NGK Iridium's are at .040" and my car feels really good.
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