Trying to figure out how much boost the cylinder walls can handle safely in the 2.0 lsj engine is getting arp head studs zzp ported head and forged internals I'm switching from the stock supercharger to a procharger just trying to get a feel for how much boost I should clock the charger for

 

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sourc...TAf0vSr1hTsG6A

 

They make a procharger for a lsj???? You need a good tune but 28 psi is probably the end of the line on stock sleeves. I went zzp girdle block for the s366 turbo. Mr.B sells sleeves

 

We've run 30psi on a stock LSJ longblock, no head studs or anything. All in the fueling and tune.

 

That's a girdled block not stock

 

Technically still the stock sleeves

 

Lol true but it's the top of the cylinder walls not being supported that's the main weak point, not the sleeves. Upgraded sleeves definitely help if you are running a stock block.

 

Agreed. Kinda like what happened to your engine...

OP- its not really so much about boost as it is how much power youre making.

 

we've run up to 34psi on a gt3076 on completely stock motors with no issues, some have lasted quite a while
but at that point it's really on the edge, one little thing off withthe tune, and you need a new motor.

 

It isn't so much the actual amount of boost but about the amount of HP and heat that you are creating.

The stock block itself is rated to 400HP; 800HP if it is in perfect shape, i.e. no cracks, porosity, or imperfections, and it is properly sleeved for that amount of power.

 

They don't sell a kit for it I've got a kraftwekrs procharger and am fabricating all the brackets and everything for it I was planning on running 20psi to start and see what it likes the most, just didn't want to run a harrop and fight heat soak and everyone and their mom has a turbo so decided to change it up

 

Cant wait to see it. Make a build thread.

 

you are right and wrong the stock sleeve ir more of a weak point then you think and most block breakage happens from the sleeve letting go if you run a better sleeve you make the block stronger to a point closing the deck or pegging is the best solution with better sleeves

attention should be paid here

the stock block was never really rated that I know just peoples educated guesses

what it boils down to is this any stock part left in the engine is a weak point(minus the crank) even with a closed deck the stock sleeves are what will give up and the tune better be spot on as the stock sleeve will not take a lot of detonation and cylinder pressure

someone did a procharger setup years ago lack luster results

 

yeah that was kyle with the ion quite a few years ago.

 

I will defiantly do that, just getting all the parts together then I'll start a thread with pics once the build starts.

 

I was looking at either getting a girdled block from zzp or possibly resleeving but I've heard of people having heat issues with aftermarket sleeves as well as damage to the block, right now the block is my weak point and what in worried about I've got forged coated wiseco pistons on the way with forged rods. Stage two zzp cams ported polished zzp head with #82 titanium springs and keepers arp head studs etc. So everything is being built to handle everything except the block at this point.

 

Heat issues...? People have pushed the gen 1 block over 500whp reliably. What are your hp goals? If it's more than that upgraded sleeves (which have been used and test by many) from Mr.B would be your best option unless you want to go with a gen 3 or girdled block just because.

 

I think hes saying with dartons people have cooling issues. Which is true.

 

Ahhhh totally forgot about dartons. I guess cause no one uses them anymore really. Nobody's got time for that anymore now that there are better options these days

 

They are the worst. If you look on zzps website on the page for the gen3 girdled block, it shows why dartons are bad and pretty much destroy the block.

 

only issue we've had with the dartons is having headgasket sealing issues. never had a problem with overheating though. but machine shop that did my buddies car had to redo them 3 times due to the block being damaged in shipping so who knows whats up now. Going to drop the motor at some point over the winter and check the deck and head for straightness, arp 625 studs, stock hg and some copper spray and hope the bitch seals at 40psi

 

You need to invest in that 257fmw!

 

thats next. looking to max this setup out with spray this spring first.
pre turbo meth and 2 kits of nitrous should be enough for now.
have to put some work in on my race car this winter

 

Why are you doing pre turbo meth? I don't like the idea of spraying a lot through the turbo and if you don't spray a lot it gives the chance for the air charge to heat back up if the piping is long

 

^your high