Just what the question says...

I got an issue where my timing is all fucked up. Its bouncing around like it just did a line of coke and its way way low. Dealerships dont help because there is no engine light.

The car at idle is rough, timing is bouncing around from 0 degrees advance up to 12. once you give it gas or drive the damn thing its fine, but at idle.. its not right. It sounds like if it was just a little worse it would sputter and pop in the exhaust. It's just not that bad though.

 

it could be your timing chain sensor

 

Okay... why do you think so?

 

timing will never be static at idle. no matter what car, or motor it is.

the base timing is set at 10 degree's. depending on etc temps

if you have not messed with the tune, and it is still box stock {gm factory, or stage 1/2} there is something else going on. vacuum leak or something of this nature

 

Okay so we should have 10 or so degrees at idle... I understand that it wont be 10 at idle no matter what. There are various timing maps that adjust depending on various sensor readings.

Im trying to find out if this is normal or not for the car to have 0 degrees of advance, i dont know of a single car where this is right... It didnt idle this rough for the first 18000 miles, im trying to figure out why its doin it now. I cant find any vacuum leaks... I hate GM. Sigh...

 

i can check it when i get home. off the top of my head, it floats +/- 3. whats your car idle at?

 

i got the same issue, went to the dealer many times, only started doing that at around 22 k kilometers, cars run fine but idle rought, car is shacking, no engine light. bizare.

 

Hmmm, funny how the most simple of questions are the hardest to answer. 800-900ish I believe once its warmed up, that hasnt changed lately. Vacuum is normal as well.

What have they tried?

 

this is true!

i'll run a log on my car when i get home tonight and let ya know

 

Cool.. thanks!

 

they tried nothing, he shop manager said to the tech (after a drive) the engine run a bit rought but thats it. they did nothing at all. i know there is something wrong, the car was running fine a few miles before that.

 

I hate that......

 

check plugs for right gap, cracks in porcelien etc etc..

thats where i would start

 

thx for the advised, i will check

 

mine does the sme thing. But only after its up to temp. No issues just a rough idle. raise your idle a bit and it will most likely go away, we did figure that out

 

Mine has the same issue , it actually posts misfires across all cylinders on a tech2 when it idles , but as soon as i touch the gas the misfires stop . When mines idles it actually has a slight faint pop , like a cammed car , like one every 5 seconds or so , their aren't any lights or codes set.

The dealer ordered a new cat for the car and wants to change it out. The only other thing i could think of is my ignall's TD is causing false knock or something but i doubt it . Let us know if they find the cause , it's really pissing me off . Btw my car has 14k on it .

Oh and i fall way outside the build dates for the unforged timing chain and roller issue.

 

My car idled with 15-20 degrees of timing.

 

Think how I feel with the cams, at idle my car plays a whole different tune.LOL!

 

off topic

you own a 98 GS....any chance of you being a member on RegalGS.org?

/off topic

 

LOL i bet ! unfortunately mine isn't helping make any more power thou hehe

 

Actually went ahead and changed plugs... there was nothing wrong with the stock ones actually.

Not really active, but yes.

 

I saw your post on the SEE forums, and wanted to say something since I had the same issue once, but I couldn't remember what from.

When mine was doing that I had a messed up injecter. It did it for a little while before I started getting misfires and I really started to scan it. I replaced the injector and it's worked fine since

 

I had the same problem with the injector , and rough idle . My timing at idle bounces from 0 to 10-12 and I dont currently have any issues or rought idle , so I would assume it to be normal to dip to 0 . When it does read 0 its only for like millisecond .

GL on getting it solved , dumb problems like this are nagging as hell . Also imo , the best thing Ive done to mine is maintence wise is switch to NGK BKR6e's . It smoothed out the idle alot and it was generally smoother throughout the entire rev range . I had alot of unexplained issues with the stock NGK plugs . I went thru 3 sets , and all "appeared" anyways to be good when replaced . I used the stock gap with the BKR6E's .

 

Give me a call. My number should be on the SEE members forum with the info thread. If I can get my laptop running again, I should be able to do it. If not, see if you can make it to Mikes on sunday and I'll be able to use Bryans HPT to do it. Are you on stock injectors? If so I'll bring some extras (used)