how reliable is a 2.6/ 2.7 inch pulley with a stage kit and a good tune on 17.5 boost
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
how reliable is a 2.6/ 2.7 inch pulley with a stage kit and a good tune on 17.5 boost
im a little bit mroe aggressive than the average driving, but under normal conditions if i dont abuse it, is it as reliable as stock?
#2
If you are running cooling mods and 60lbers with a good solid tune you can get away with the 2.7, however you will be over spinning the blower and I would recommend using the 2.8.
Anything below a 2.8 is just creating way to much heat and without methanol injection is just pointless and will heat soak way to quickly. However, if you have all the cooling mods, like I said, you can get away with a 2.7. Cooling mods and the tune are the key
Also as you continue to mod your car the reliability factor is going to decrease, but if you don't beat on it all the time and you treat it right, it will last. Make sure you change the oil, the plugs, etc and it should last. As I said above though, cooling mods and the tune are VERY important.
Anything below a 2.8 is just creating way to much heat and without methanol injection is just pointless and will heat soak way to quickly. However, if you have all the cooling mods, like I said, you can get away with a 2.7. Cooling mods and the tune are the key
Also as you continue to mod your car the reliability factor is going to decrease, but if you don't beat on it all the time and you treat it right, it will last. Make sure you change the oil, the plugs, etc and it should last. As I said above though, cooling mods and the tune are VERY important.
Last edited by Zach06CobaltSC; 01-13-2009 at 05:04 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you are running cooling mods and 60lbers with a good solid tune you can get away with the 2.7, however you will be over spinning the blower and I would recommend using the 2.8.
Anything below a 2.8 is just creating way to much heat and without methanol injection is just pointless and will heat soak way to quickly. However, if you have all the cooling mods, like I said, you can get away with a 2.7. Cooling mods and the tune are the key
Anything below a 2.8 is just creating way to much heat and without methanol injection is just pointless and will heat soak way to quickly. However, if you have all the cooling mods, like I said, you can get away with a 2.7. Cooling mods and the tune are the key
#4
No, not nearly enough. Without methanol/water injection your iat2's are going to be way way to high. I recommend sticking with a 2.9 without meth, or a 2.8 with meth. Either way, make sure you go with 60lbers.
Also remember that boost does not equal power.
Also remember that boost does not equal power.
Last edited by Zach06CobaltSC; 01-13-2009 at 05:21 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
how much does meth inj cost?
#6
Depends on which kit you pick up. There are 2 devils own kits that are on www.ottperformance.com and a kit from turbotechracing.com which is the aem methanol kit.
I have used both and both are good solid reliable kits.
I have used both and both are good solid reliable kits.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Depends on which kit you pick up. There are 2 devils own kits that are on www.ottperformance.com and a kit from turbotechracing.com which is the aem methanol kit.
I have used both and both are good solid reliable kits.
I have used both and both are good solid reliable kits.
#8
No problem man I am here to help. I run methanol injection and do some tuning and I can tell you from experience if you don't have meth/water injection your iat2's are going to be through the roof and you WILL lose power, especially with a pulley smaller then a 2.8.
#10
I haven't raced it on the 1/4mile track yet. I wanted to finish all of my mods and tuning before I took her to the track . I can tell you however that on the dyno that I use I put down 280whp without the 50shot. However take that with only a grain of salt because every dyno varies so who knows.
I am very confident that I will have absolutely no problem getting my car into the 11s this summer, with the 50shot and slicks that is .
I am very confident that I will have absolutely no problem getting my car into the 11s this summer, with the 50shot and slicks that is .
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I haven't raced it on the 1/4mile track yet. I wanted to finish all of my mods and tuning before I took her to the track . I can tell you however that on the dyno that I use I put down 280whp without the 50shot. However take that with only a grain of salt because every dyno varies so who knows.
I am very confident that I will have absolutely no problem getting my car into the 11s this summer, with the 50shot and slicks that is .
I am very confident that I will have absolutely no problem getting my car into the 11s this summer, with the 50shot and slicks that is .
#12
If you don't have any traction mods I would recommend getting some. When you have a lot of power and you can't put it to the ground you get wheel hop, I am sure you have heard about it, or felt it in your car. If you get wheel hop at the track it's very easy to snap an axle.
Contrary to popular belief, slicks can actually prevent wheel hop and help you put the power you have to the ground. I recommend ONLY using slicks at the track, no street tires.
What happens with street tires when you launch is they start to spin and then suddenly hook up, this sudden hook up of the street tires after spinning for so long and so fast, is what causes axles to snap. When you use slicks the tires hook up very quickly and can help prevent wheel hop.
11s is pretty big for a cobalt, however with all of the time and money I have put into my car it won't seem like much in the end lol.
Contrary to popular belief, slicks can actually prevent wheel hop and help you put the power you have to the ground. I recommend ONLY using slicks at the track, no street tires.
What happens with street tires when you launch is they start to spin and then suddenly hook up, this sudden hook up of the street tires after spinning for so long and so fast, is what causes axles to snap. When you use slicks the tires hook up very quickly and can help prevent wheel hop.
11s is pretty big for a cobalt, however with all of the time and money I have put into my car it won't seem like much in the end lol.
Last edited by Zach06CobaltSC; 01-13-2009 at 05:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you don't have any traction mods I would recommend getting some. When you have a lot of power and you can't put it to the ground you get wheel hop, I am sure you have heard about it, or felt it in your car. If you get wheel hop at the track it's very easy to snap an axle.
Contrary to popular belief, slicks can actually prevent wheel hop and help you put the power you have to the ground. I recommend ONLY using slicks at the track, no street tires.
What happens with street tires when you launch is they start to spin and then suddenly hook up, this sudden hook up of the street tires after spinning for so long and so fast, is what causes axles to snap. When you use slicks the tires hook up very quickly and can help prevent wheel hop.
11s is pretty big for a cobalt, however with all of the time and money I have put into my car it won't seem like much in the end lol.
Contrary to popular belief, slicks can actually prevent wheel hop and help you put the power you have to the ground. I recommend ONLY using slicks at the track, no street tires.
What happens with street tires when you launch is they start to spin and then suddenly hook up, this sudden hook up of the street tires after spinning for so long and so fast, is what causes axles to snap. When you use slicks the tires hook up very quickly and can help prevent wheel hop.
11s is pretty big for a cobalt, however with all of the time and money I have put into my car it won't seem like much in the end lol.
#14
I don't think I will ever have an "end goal" for my cobalt haha. I always keep coming up with more and more goals for it =D. I am currently using the ingalls torque dampener, coupled with some lower springs. It's a pretty good combination however I have heard that the solid motor mounts are better then the ingalls.
Either way, I recommend getting the tranny mounts also, I don't have them yet but will be picking them up when it gets a little warmer out . The more traction mods the better.
Either way, I recommend getting the tranny mounts also, I don't have them yet but will be picking them up when it gets a little warmer out . The more traction mods the better.
#15
I don't think I will ever have an "end goal" for my cobalt haha. I always keep coming up with more and more goals for it =D. I am currently using the ingalls torque dampener, coupled with some lower springs. It's a pretty good combination however I have heard that the solid motor mounts are better then the ingalls.
Either way, I recommend getting the tranny mounts also, I don't have them yet but will be picking them up when it gets a little warmer out . The more traction mods the better.
Either way, I recommend getting the tranny mounts also, I don't have them yet but will be picking them up when it gets a little warmer out . The more traction mods the better.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
im going to look into those, im not sure about lowering my car safely, montreal has horrible roads, bumps potholes, un even surfaces, its caused by our cold winter, and great contractors(they make sure they have a job every year, good business!) most of my friends with lowered cars have some damage here and there... im still debating that!
#19
ajjaro - one thing you could look into is coilovers. You can set it up for daily driving and keep it a little bit higher and then when you want to track it you can lower it.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
i took a quick look, their expensive arent they? ottp has them for 1200. im trying to keep my total spending under 2000$ in mods, with a little bit of lee way, so far i have about 1500$ worth of quality mods planned. what should i do with the last 500$? what can you tell me about headers and their function, are they worth buying?
i can stretch it to 2500$, it is just one year, i have to save a little bit for the next car.
i can stretch it to 2500$, it is just one year, i have to save a little bit for the next car.
Last edited by ajjaro; 01-13-2009 at 06:40 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#21
If you can know how to work on your car yourself, I would say grab some pistons and toss them in. If you don't know how, then it will cost way to much. What are your goals for the car?
Yea, a full exhaust would help the car quite a bit. I would recommend a full 3 inch exhaust. I had a shop custom make my exhaust out in cali, then picked up a zpp 3inch dp and header. I am using a magnaflow muffler and a 36inch glasspack for a resonator. The resonator toned it down a bit and eliminated all of the rasp at higher rpm's.
Exhaust is a good supporting mod though to pick up a few more ponies. Let me know what you wanna do with the car and I will suggest a few things for ya
Yea, a full exhaust would help the car quite a bit. I would recommend a full 3 inch exhaust. I had a shop custom make my exhaust out in cali, then picked up a zpp 3inch dp and header. I am using a magnaflow muffler and a 36inch glasspack for a resonator. The resonator toned it down a bit and eliminated all of the rasp at higher rpm's.
Exhaust is a good supporting mod though to pick up a few more ponies. Let me know what you wanna do with the car and I will suggest a few things for ya
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you can know how to work on your car yourself, I would say grab some pistons and toss them in. If you don't know how, then it will cost way to much. What are your goals for the car?
Yea, a full exhaust would help the car quite a bit. I would recommend a full 3 inch exhaust. I had a shop custom make my exhaust out in cali, then picked up a zpp 3inch dp and header. I am using a magnaflow muffler and a 36inch glasspack for a resonator. The resonator toned it down a bit and eliminated all of the rasp at higher rpm's.
Exhaust is a good supporting mod though to pick up a few more ponies. Let me know what you wanna do with the car and I will suggest a few things for ya
Yea, a full exhaust would help the car quite a bit. I would recommend a full 3 inch exhaust. I had a shop custom make my exhaust out in cali, then picked up a zpp 3inch dp and header. I am using a magnaflow muffler and a 36inch glasspack for a resonator. The resonator toned it down a bit and eliminated all of the rasp at higher rpm's.
Exhaust is a good supporting mod though to pick up a few more ponies. Let me know what you wanna do with the car and I will suggest a few things for ya
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
i checked the pricing, its listed as 2250, thats too expensive, looks nice tho. any other supercharger suggestions, upgrades other than the options i've explored? maybe a supercharger swap between 1000 and 1500?
Last edited by ajjaro; 01-13-2009 at 07:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#25
There are no other options for supercharger upgrades besides the TVS. The only thing you need to run it is 60lbers and cooling mods, exhaust is also recommended.
If you can save up a few more bucks, I would go for it personally. The swap is VERY straight forward.
If you can save up a few more bucks, I would go for it personally. The swap is VERY straight forward.