First off, I'm in Phoenix and am wondering if there is anyone out here who can help me troubleshoot this?

I'm running a 2.8" Pulley, Dual Pass IC with additional ZZP S3 H/E and option b.

IAT1 this morning was in the low 80's. After 20ish minutes of driving, my IAT2's were holding steady at 140 - a short burst got it up to 165. Another 5 minutes of driving and it was down to 152. Does this sound normal for a 2.8" Pulley - because I'm not feeling like the intercooler is working up to par?

 

Check to see if your intercooler pump is working, turn the car to run, and you should be able to hear it kick on after like 10 seconds.

 

The Pump works, when running, I can see air bubbles moving in the bleed line.

 

mine did that and i have the same setup you have. the pump was working when i was sitting still but while driving it quit working. new pump no more problem

 

Same thing happened with me. When mine was working intermittently it would work while idling or regular driving but if I did a pull my temps wouldn't go down right away. New pump no problem

 

Did you replace with the stock pump or go for something more powerful?

 

Just replace the stock pump

 

ZZP Sells them for about 1/5th the price the dealership sells them for

 

Corey04-RL what are your other mods (intake exhaust ...) and how many PSI of boost do you see at WOT?

 

How you know It Wasnt working while driving? You didnt see air bubbles while driving lol

 

is your car blue?

 

I've got a shorty header, 2.5" exhaust, 2.8" pulley, ZZP S/3 and option B - plumbing still uses the stock HE. 60# injectors. WOT shows about 15-16lbs of boost near the redline. K&N CAI.

My car is silver - though I have seen that blue one and a red one in Ahwatukee (where I am btw)

 

snail cooling mod?

 

Not sure what that one is...

 

turbo lol

 

Got it lol - I'll be putting my noob hat back on and I'll be in the garage

 

Ah nice! don't see too many RL's around these parts

 

Corey04-RL have you upgraded to one step colder spark plugs? Do you see any knock retard as well?

 

2 step colder plugs, no kr at this point - I haven't run it past IAT2 of 160 - temps might seem high to some, but I'm in Phoenix. The heat coming off the freeway here is approx 125 in summer. 140-160 doesn't seem bad to me, not great, but not bad. I get scared when it gets up near 180.

 

This guy is selling a brand new ic pump if your interested https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...mp-etc-260639/

 

Thanks, but I've already got an IC Pump on the way from ZZP.

 

Please check if your IC pump is wired correctly:

From ZZP article:

Cobalt & Ion ---> ZZ Performance

"First thing, you need to verify that your intercooler pump is even functioning. I would say that 60% of the Cobalt/Redlines out there are running around without a functioning intercooler pump. It is located on the front of the block, right under the lower intake manifold. You could start the car, of course make sure that the car is secured, and then reach under the car and feel if the IC pump is running. Unplug it and then plug it back in to see if the pump shuts off and then restarts. While the plug is off, I would use a power tester to verify that the polarity is correct. The IC pump will have a (+) and a (-) on it, just make sure that they are correct. That has a HUGE effect on the IC pumps actual flow!"

"Special note! Please check to see if your IC pump is running, these cars are known for the wiring being backwards which causes very low flow, and a lot of the pumps just plain die, unfortunetely there is no code thrown to let us know either. Just start the car, get under it and see if the pump is running."

 

And there will be people who wont believe that GM would wire it backwards from the factory. Those people have never taken a GM harness even partially apart. My stock fuel injector harness was tangled to **** and had a knot in it. And I've run into a bunch of other tangled wires in the harness on this car. GM harness are a mess underneath all that loam and electrical tape.

 

you dont need to step colder plugs

 

I have actually checked today if my I/C pump was functionning. HPTuners scanning feature is pretty neat as I could turn my I/C pump on and off with my laptop. Also I checked with a multi-meter to see if the positive wire is wired to the positive terminal of the pump and this was ok as well.