nich7601

bender, feel free to post pics of the eclipse. We don't mind other cars if the drivers aren't trolling our forums. We only get upset when they come in raggin on the 'balt just to **** us off.

bender

I wasn't sure whether or not to put them in the "garage" or the gallery. So I figured I couldn't go wrong with both.

eastcoastz

Bro take it to get tuned asap! If that is an Intense tune your car is in danger. My friend had only Stage 4 and the GM cat back 2 months later he pulled up to my house blowing smoke out the crank case!

bender

Is there a way to check what tune it has? Would there be a sticker on the PCM or something? It looks like the guy before knew a lot about the cars, and dumped some money into it. I wonder if maybe he knew to have it retuned?

zinner

The car should idle at about 700-800 RPM and should idle smooth. Maybe an occasional skip.

GM changed the desired idle speed in the calibrations. So 900-1000 is definitely not stock GM. For a reliable DD I would find something else.

Intense has had several version of their stage kits, some include tuning with HPtuners, some have a MAF-T. A new clutch probably means the car was flogged pretty hard.

bender

I was thinking either that, the old was slipping, or it was the others guys first manual transmission. There was 25,9XX miles on the car when I bought it. The car idles at about 1500 until it warms up, then it drops to just under a grand. The HPTuners software isn't that much (considering what it does), I may just order it and sit down and learn to tune these GM's as well.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

I look forward to meeting you at this years DSM Shootout. I assume you will be there?

Projekt

if he owned aftermarket cams id like to know where he got em

cams is a very rare thing with cobalts..for lsj/le5 the only ones you can get are the JBP ones..and they are expensive.

R&C_rallySS

Very awesome thread. Welcome aboard. I would suggest getting familar with the HPtuners system. Since I'm selling my cobalt I have not been as up to date on things as of late. I'm not sure everything that is included in the intense stage 5 kit. Either way if your pulley is any smaller then 2.8 you should be tuned and have extra cooling mods such as bigger heat exchanger, dual pass intercooler plate. If you don't have these items I have a brand new H/E and brand new in the box dual pass with all hardware and extra surge tank laying around. Good luck and let me know if you need anything.

bender

Thanks for the offers. As for the shootout I'm not sure yet. I tend to keep to myself because I get sick of all the 14 year old kids who think they know what they're talking about telling me stuff about my car. It gets old saying "Well actually thats for....." Even at Nopi I park next to the motorhomes and trailers. Back on subject though, thanks for the info on the smaller pulley size. As I said, until I get in touch with the previous owner, or pop off the pulley; I don't know for sure what size is on it. I only have speculations from the amount of boost. How is tuning with HPTuners? I would most likely get the pro version because of the extra options. Also, what is the "credit" ordeal? Does each car you tune take a "credit" so the more cars you tune, the more credits you buy?

Edit: Just checked the price of cams and don't seem to expensive. But that is probably because the eclipse uses two, and you get a sigh of relief when you only need one

Area47

you need two. you need hpt. either version works.

lsj tuning with hpt is cake walk compared to the rest of the gm world

bender

You need two cams? For some reason I thought they only had one cam. Either way if the 800 price is for a set, then its not too bad. Also, just cruising around in 5th gear, my air fuel is strobing between high 14's and low 15's. Usually between 14.7-15.3, but jumps a little bit occasionally. Is this a good cruising tune for these cars?

zinner

There are no aftermarket LSJ cam's worth getting or st least dyno tested and proven.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Aftermarket for DSM's= MONSTROUS

Aftermarket for SS/SC's= ...what aftermarket?

blk ss/sc 1

man it sounds like a badass car and how much are u payin for it if u dont mind.. and i dont have a stage 2 or anything(mainly stock) and mine idles around 900. so i dont think that is a big deal

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

If you are stock and your car is idling at 900... either you have a problem... or you are blind.

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

welcome to the site man.
I've seen some horror shows with your kids owning these cars (I'm pretty much the only one in NY that works on em, so I've fixed quite a few) But if you were lucky and you bought some one's car who was seriously into it, you should be alright.
But as mentioned beforehand, I'd retune the car if it's running an intense tune, I've witnesses bad things.
Also if you do plan on racing it, I would highly recommend he DSS stage II axles. I've been running those on slicks for a while now and so far I haven't broken them (I snapped the stock ones on stock tires)
Any Questions feel free to Pm. There are afew of us out there that actually know what we are doing with these cars, and advice is always free.

Area47

give me two weeks. you will have an answer

bender

I'm paying about 370 a month, but thats with 6.8% interest. As I said before, I don't plan on racing this car too heavily, and I bought it for a daily driver. That does not mean I want it to be a slug though. I would like to keep the 20 lbs of boost if I could. Any of you know good values for timing retard and air fuel for this boost level? And at what these values should be at at certain rpms? I can check them out with the scan gauge thats in the car, and see if they are up to par. Also, anyone have word on the high 14 to low 15 wideband strobe for these cars?

Edit: I'm guessing it should be around mid 16 to low 17 for good fuel economy? That also would lower my idle too.

blk ss/sc 1

well **** i might need a reflash or somethin then

bender

Maybe we can get a package deal if we do both of ours together.

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

Idle should be btwn 750-850 rpms, as for cruising and part throttle AFR 14.7 is the desired ratio. due to our cars running off the maf and 02 sensors, there is a bit of sweep at idel from 14.2-15.3 usually. Idle speed is controlled soley by the PCM on these cars, fueling wouldn't have much of an effect. I'd search first for either a vacuum leak, or a leak in the intake piping btwn the maf and the throttle body. that can cause a higher than normal idle and bad fuel economy. also I would change the primary o2 sensor since with those mods there is a good chance race fuel was run in the car which quickly f's up the o2's.
timing depends on fuel and other modds, but on pump gas, and no meth injection. I wouldnt run more than 15-16 degrees total advance under full boost. Als at WOT @20psi you should be aiming for an AFR of 114.-11.6 to keep it from blowing up.

rukkee

iTrader: (3)

If the car is pushing 20psi first thing i would check is the pulley size . Some pulley's will be marked as to what size they are, either in MM or inches . The reason i say this is because these cars are know to eat catalytic converters and when they do the restriction usually show itself by displaying higher boost readings.

If the pulley is small enough to push 20psi then the next thing i would look for are cooling mods, maybe there's a extra heat exchanger on the car or a dual pass end plate . If not i would look into adding a extra H/E or changing the endplate to a dual pass. @ 20psi the M62 is going to produce some heat .

bender

As for a cat, this car doesn't have one. It has a resonator and a muffler, the rest is straight pipe. As I said about the pulley, I couldn't see any markings on it, so I was thinking maybe it was installed so the markings were facing the supercharger. I never took one of this type of S/C, so I don't know if they can only go on one way. Thanks for the A/F numbers and timing, thats what I was looking for. I'm running 93 octane in it now, but I'm not feeling any detonation or knock. Does the PCM automatically retard timing if the octane isn't there? As for cooling, I did notice a couple heat exchangers mounted on the front of the car. How many are there from the factory? I didn't study it, but just looked it over when I was checking out the car in the dealership. If I remember correctly there is 3 or 4. Take out 2 for the radiator and A/C condenser. Is there a separate one for oil? Is there a factory charge cooler heat exchanger?

Edit: It has the factory boost gauge which reads up to 20, and thats where it stops. Does the gauge go further than the readings to show over 20, or does it just stop at 20?

Area47

it will stop reading when it hits the "psi" marking.

weather plays hell with these cars, so keep a close eye on things. the afr will swing. all efi cars do this.

11.4 is a good starting point for afr at wot. 16 degree's will keep it half ass peppy and safe. to a degree.


the cooling part is easy. there is, in this order. heat exchanger, ac condenser, radiator. is there is 4 of them on there. someone added an additional h/e

these cars have an aftercooler from the factory.