Le Riceburners OFFICIAL Build Thread
#226
ok guys here's the list of everything ive had to get in order to do this. total is 5105 including the expected dyno tune, and still not including new plugs, oil, assembly lube etc lol.
but 5105. a little more than 2k dont ya think?
granted, the trans and zzp h/e was not necessary and some parts are above and beyond but i needed it all in order to get tuned for it all at the same time.
but for the poindexters, i made two seperate lists. one for just the headswap parts, and another for the other stuff i'm doing
Headswap
Got spare head from almclure, taken as 125$ value for giving him seats
Gave head right to lsjion, 375 shipped back to me ported
Cams from bluelightning for 550 shipped
Valve cover I got for free from kdub1492, pc’d for 40
16 valve retainers – 69
New header studs and bolts – 40
11609476 nuts (idk what for) 11 bucks
32 valve stem keys – 80
New intake and exhaust valves from zzp – 160
Coppetech header gasket – 50
LSJ Timing Chain Deluxe Set $255
Ecotec Thermostat $42.27
Fuel Injector Insulator $21.56
LSJ Intake Gasket $15.42
Supercharger Mounting Bolts $7.84
CM/SHF POSN SEN HSG OIL (O RING) $6.29
Ecotec LSJ 2.0 Valve Cover Gasket $42.90
Cylinder Head Gasket 2.0 $58.18
Arp head studs -145
New aem eugo wideband (needed for tune) – 125 (go ottp!)
Zzp neutral balance shafts – used – 150
Ati damper – 400
Machined zzp front cover – 100
Valve seals – 19
Performance autowerks valvesprings – 125 (what a deal!)
Quote for machining crank - 70
Rod bearings – 28
Main bearings(or crank bearings) – 28
Front and rear seals – 25
Misc bottom end bolts and **** – 145
Dyno tune will be 500
TOTAL for headswap parts - 3910
Other stuff
Blower oil – 8.99
cobalt Clutch Pipe $8.32
Manual Transmission Fluid SAE 75W-85 GL/4 888624722$43.56
G85 trans – 450 shipped
80# injectors – 150 (used)
New meth kit – 210 shipped (needed since old one failed)
2.7” pulley – 39.99
Magnetic drain plug – 7
Stealth heat exchanger – 379
Total for other (though moderately necessary) parts - 1295
but 5105. a little more than 2k dont ya think?
granted, the trans and zzp h/e was not necessary and some parts are above and beyond but i needed it all in order to get tuned for it all at the same time.
but for the poindexters, i made two seperate lists. one for just the headswap parts, and another for the other stuff i'm doing
Headswap
Got spare head from almclure, taken as 125$ value for giving him seats
Gave head right to lsjion, 375 shipped back to me ported
Cams from bluelightning for 550 shipped
Valve cover I got for free from kdub1492, pc’d for 40
16 valve retainers – 69
New header studs and bolts – 40
11609476 nuts (idk what for) 11 bucks
32 valve stem keys – 80
New intake and exhaust valves from zzp – 160
Coppetech header gasket – 50
LSJ Timing Chain Deluxe Set $255
Ecotec Thermostat $42.27
Fuel Injector Insulator $21.56
LSJ Intake Gasket $15.42
Supercharger Mounting Bolts $7.84
CM/SHF POSN SEN HSG OIL (O RING) $6.29
Ecotec LSJ 2.0 Valve Cover Gasket $42.90
Cylinder Head Gasket 2.0 $58.18
Arp head studs -145
New aem eugo wideband (needed for tune) – 125 (go ottp!)
Zzp neutral balance shafts – used – 150
Ati damper – 400
Machined zzp front cover – 100
Valve seals – 19
Performance autowerks valvesprings – 125 (what a deal!)
Quote for machining crank - 70
Rod bearings – 28
Main bearings(or crank bearings) – 28
Front and rear seals – 25
Misc bottom end bolts and **** – 145
Dyno tune will be 500
TOTAL for headswap parts - 3910
Other stuff
Blower oil – 8.99
cobalt Clutch Pipe $8.32
Manual Transmission Fluid SAE 75W-85 GL/4 888624722$43.56
G85 trans – 450 shipped
80# injectors – 150 (used)
New meth kit – 210 shipped (needed since old one failed)
2.7” pulley – 39.99
Magnetic drain plug – 7
Stealth heat exchanger – 379
Total for other (though moderately necessary) parts - 1295
Last edited by riceburner; 02-21-2014 at 12:15 PM.
#228
yeah i hear ya, lol. but to me my dream is to make the car better in all respects. its not practical, but i want the car to ride good, look great, and be modded to be better in every category you can look at it. some go for all out power, some go all out for looks or tricking other aspects of the car out. i want the entire car to be my way or the highway.
#232
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
ok guys here's the list of everything ive had to get in order to do this. total is 5105 including the expected dyno tune, and still not including new plugs, oil, assembly lube etc lol.
but 5105. a little more than 2k dont ya think?
granted, the trans and zzp h/e was not necessary and some parts are above and beyond but i needed it all in order to get tuned for it all at the same time.
Got spare head from almclure, taken as 125$ value for giving him seats
Gave head right to lsjion, 375 shipped back to me ported
Cams from bluelightning for 550 shipped
Valve cover I got for free from kdub1492, pc’d for 40 not needed
16 valve retainers – 69
New header studs and bolts – 40 not needed
11609476 nuts (idk what for) 11 bucks
32 valve stem keys – 80 not needed
New intake and exhaust valves from zzp – 160 not needed
Blower oil – 8.99 not needed for head swap
Coppetech header gasket – 50
LSJ Timing Chain Deluxe Set $255
Ecotec Thermostat $42.27 not needed
Fuel Injector Insulator $21.56
LSJ Intake Gasket $15.42
Supercharger Mounting Bolts $7.84 not needed unless damged
CM/SHF POSN SEN HSG OIL (O RING) $6.29
Ecotec LSJ 2.0 Valve Cover Gasket $42.90
Cylinder Head Gasket 2.0 $58.18
LSJ Clutch Bearing - Cylinder $103.60 not needed for head swap
cobalt Clutch Pipe $8.32 not needed for head swap
Manual Transmission Fluid SAE 75W-85 GL/4 888624722$43.56 not needed for head swap
G85 trans – 350 shipped not needed for head swap
80# injectors – 150 (used)
New meth kit – 210 shipped (needed since old one failed) not needed for head swap
Arp head studs -145
2.7” pulley – 39.99 not needed for head swap
New aem eugo wideband (needed for tune) – 125 (go ottp!)
Zzp neutral balance shafts – used – 150 not needed for head swap
Ati damper – 400 not needed for head swap
Machined zzp front cover – 100 not needed for head swap
Magnetic drain plug – 7 not needed for head swap
Valve seals – 19
Stealth heat exchanger – 379 not needed for head swap
Performance autowerks valvesprings – 125 (what a deal!)
Quote for machining crank - 70 not needed for head swap
Rod bearings – 28 not needed for head swap
Main bearings(or crank bearings) – 28 not needed for head swap
Front and rear seals – 25 not needed for head swap
Misc bottom end bolts and **** – 145 not needed for head swap
Dyno tune will be 500
i'm mad now
but 5105. a little more than 2k dont ya think?
granted, the trans and zzp h/e was not necessary and some parts are above and beyond but i needed it all in order to get tuned for it all at the same time.
Got spare head from almclure, taken as 125$ value for giving him seats
Gave head right to lsjion, 375 shipped back to me ported
Cams from bluelightning for 550 shipped
Valve cover I got for free from kdub1492, pc’d for 40 not needed
16 valve retainers – 69
New header studs and bolts – 40 not needed
11609476 nuts (idk what for) 11 bucks
32 valve stem keys – 80 not needed
New intake and exhaust valves from zzp – 160 not needed
Blower oil – 8.99 not needed for head swap
Coppetech header gasket – 50
LSJ Timing Chain Deluxe Set $255
Ecotec Thermostat $42.27 not needed
Fuel Injector Insulator $21.56
LSJ Intake Gasket $15.42
Supercharger Mounting Bolts $7.84 not needed unless damged
CM/SHF POSN SEN HSG OIL (O RING) $6.29
Ecotec LSJ 2.0 Valve Cover Gasket $42.90
Cylinder Head Gasket 2.0 $58.18
LSJ Clutch Bearing - Cylinder $103.60 not needed for head swap
cobalt Clutch Pipe $8.32 not needed for head swap
Manual Transmission Fluid SAE 75W-85 GL/4 888624722$43.56 not needed for head swap
G85 trans – 350 shipped not needed for head swap
80# injectors – 150 (used)
New meth kit – 210 shipped (needed since old one failed) not needed for head swap
Arp head studs -145
2.7” pulley – 39.99 not needed for head swap
New aem eugo wideband (needed for tune) – 125 (go ottp!)
Zzp neutral balance shafts – used – 150 not needed for head swap
Ati damper – 400 not needed for head swap
Machined zzp front cover – 100 not needed for head swap
Magnetic drain plug – 7 not needed for head swap
Valve seals – 19
Stealth heat exchanger – 379 not needed for head swap
Performance autowerks valvesprings – 125 (what a deal!)
Quote for machining crank - 70 not needed for head swap
Rod bearings – 28 not needed for head swap
Main bearings(or crank bearings) – 28 not needed for head swap
Front and rear seals – 25 not needed for head swap
Misc bottom end bolts and **** – 145 not needed for head swap
Dyno tune will be 500
i'm mad now
#233
i dont think RB's numbers are inflated at all. if RB lived in canada you could add on a extra 20 to 30% in shipping and exchange rate. which is where a guy like blue or myself are at. as for go fast parts i would include all motor, trans, suspension parts. essentially you need all 3 areas to go fast. even some interior stuff like wide bands and interceptors. all of that stuff is essential to go fast. i believe RB when he says he has 15 or 16 grand in total. i know if i didnt have some real creative ways of saving money or doing the work myself i would be approaching that easily.
small example is i recently bought a zzp 3 inch intake and cat back. i paid iirc 1200 just to land it in my shop. that is not including any gaskets, which i believe i paid about 100 for. thankfully i was able to do all the work myself. also thankfully i was given a ottp long tube that was broken. i had it fixed for a trade off in work.
small example is i recently bought a zzp 3 inch intake and cat back. i paid iirc 1200 just to land it in my shop. that is not including any gaskets, which i believe i paid about 100 for. thankfully i was able to do all the work myself. also thankfully i was given a ottp long tube that was broken. i had it fixed for a trade off in work.
#235
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
i dont think RB's numbers are inflated at all. if RB lived in canada you could add on a extra 20 to 30% in shipping and exchange rate. which is where a guy like blue or myself are at. as for go fast parts i would include all motor, trans, suspension parts. essentially you need all 3 areas to go fast. even some interior stuff like wide bands and interceptors. all of that stuff is essential to go fast. i believe RB when he says he has 15 or 16 grand in total. i know if i didnt have some real creative ways of saving money or doing the work myself i would be approaching that easily.
small example is i recently bought a zzp 3 inch intake and cat back. i paid iirc 1200 just to land it in my shop. that is not including any gaskets, which i believe i paid about 100 for. thankfully i was able to do all the work myself. also thankfully i was given a ottp long tube that was broken. i had it fixed for a trade off in work.
small example is i recently bought a zzp 3 inch intake and cat back. i paid iirc 1200 just to land it in my shop. that is not including any gaskets, which i believe i paid about 100 for. thankfully i was able to do all the work myself. also thankfully i was given a ottp long tube that was broken. i had it fixed for a trade off in work.
#236
yeah but to do it properly and safely was my concern. plus doing some of the things frees up a bit of power, like the neutral balance shafts.
putting valves and **** from a different head to the new one just doesn't make sense to me so new stuff it is.
all torque to yield internal bolts? better safe than sorry.
the motors at 75k so a new whole timing set makes sense to throw at it, especially since it will be easy while the motors out.
to run the ati properly, new **** is needed.
it is NOT all absolutely necessary, but for peace of mind i'm glad that i'm gonna have a pretty much new motor after this. like seriously i may as well reset the odometer.
and for everything else i got, well why do all this if i'm still gonna throw 93 octane into it? why have the blower off for a month without porting it and throwing a smaller pulley on it? why run a trans that has 75k on it with no LSD?
my intercooling system was a mess so having the bigass muthaphukin heat exhanger and new AN lines will make everything a breeze after this.
i mean seriously, what did i not need? why not try to squeeze new power out of everything i can while doing this? it is a build. i don't wanna be pushing everything on worn out stock parts.
i do NOT want the motor to blow after this due to some internal stretch bolt not being in sync, or the thermostat gasket leaking. new **** just makes sense
putting valves and **** from a different head to the new one just doesn't make sense to me so new stuff it is.
all torque to yield internal bolts? better safe than sorry.
the motors at 75k so a new whole timing set makes sense to throw at it, especially since it will be easy while the motors out.
to run the ati properly, new **** is needed.
it is NOT all absolutely necessary, but for peace of mind i'm glad that i'm gonna have a pretty much new motor after this. like seriously i may as well reset the odometer.
and for everything else i got, well why do all this if i'm still gonna throw 93 octane into it? why have the blower off for a month without porting it and throwing a smaller pulley on it? why run a trans that has 75k on it with no LSD?
my intercooling system was a mess so having the bigass muthaphukin heat exhanger and new AN lines will make everything a breeze after this.
i mean seriously, what did i not need? why not try to squeeze new power out of everything i can while doing this? it is a build. i don't wanna be pushing everything on worn out stock parts.
i do NOT want the motor to blow after this due to some internal stretch bolt not being in sync, or the thermostat gasket leaking. new **** just makes sense
#241
Got Bewst?
iTrader: (8)
yeah but to do it properly and safely was my concern. plus doing some of the things frees up a bit of power, like the neutral balance shafts.
putting valves and **** from a different head to the new one just doesn't make sense to me so new stuff it is.
all torque to yield internal bolts? better safe than sorry.
the motors at 75k so a new whole timing set makes sense to throw at it, especially since it will be easy while the motors out.
to run the ati properly, new **** is needed.
it is NOT all absolutely necessary, but for peace of mind i'm glad that i'm gonna have a pretty much new motor after this. like seriously i may as well reset the odometer.
and for everything else i got, well why do all this if i'm still gonna throw 93 octane into it? why have the blower off for a month without porting it and throwing a smaller pulley on it? why run a trans that has 75k on it with no LSD?
my intercooling system was a mess so having the bigass muthaphukin heat exhanger and new AN lines will make everything a breeze after this.
i mean seriously, what did i not need? why not try to squeeze new power out of everything i can while doing this? it is a build. i don't wanna be pushing everything on worn out stock parts.
i do NOT want the motor to blow after thisdue to some internal stretch bolt not being in sync, or the thermostat gasket leaking. new **** just makes sense
putting valves and **** from a different head to the new one just doesn't make sense to me so new stuff it is.
all torque to yield internal bolts? better safe than sorry.
the motors at 75k so a new whole timing set makes sense to throw at it, especially since it will be easy while the motors out.
to run the ati properly, new **** is needed.
it is NOT all absolutely necessary, but for peace of mind i'm glad that i'm gonna have a pretty much new motor after this. like seriously i may as well reset the odometer.
and for everything else i got, well why do all this if i'm still gonna throw 93 octane into it? why have the blower off for a month without porting it and throwing a smaller pulley on it? why run a trans that has 75k on it with no LSD?
my intercooling system was a mess so having the bigass muthaphukin heat exhanger and new AN lines will make everything a breeze after this.
i mean seriously, what did i not need? why not try to squeeze new power out of everything i can while doing this? it is a build. i don't wanna be pushing everything on worn out stock parts.
i do NOT want the motor to blow after thisdue to some internal stretch bolt not being in sync, or the thermostat gasket leaking. new **** just makes sense
#243
idk if you saw my pics from a few pages back but minus the pistons looking dirty and a ring of carbon buildup (plan to clean) the cylinder sleeves look great
who knows..
no chance of being able to slap a set of pistons in is there? i'd need new rods, yes? and at that point well i may as well sleeve the MF but i wanna be on the road in march
#247
Senior Member
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Join Date: 09-09-10
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
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we could check them, no?
idk if you saw my pics from a few pages back but minus the pistons looking dirty and a ring of carbon buildup (plan to clean) the cylinder sleeves look great
who knows..
no chance of being able to slap a set of pistons in is there? i'd need new rods, yes? and at that point well i may as well sleeve the MF but i wanna be on the road in march
idk if you saw my pics from a few pages back but minus the pistons looking dirty and a ring of carbon buildup (plan to clean) the cylinder sleeves look great
who knows..
no chance of being able to slap a set of pistons in is there? i'd need new rods, yes? and at that point well i may as well sleeve the MF but i wanna be on the road in march