Le Riceburners OFFICIAL Build Thread
03-24-2015, 02:34 PM
#2079
It would take you many many tries to get the chain marks to line up again w/o removing the chain and timing it from scratch.
Place a screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine until you are at TDC comp stroke which would have the screw driver rise up.
The easiest way to make sure youre still in time is to line up the factory harmonic balancer timing mark with the timing mark on the front cover. If the harmonic balancer timing mark is lined up, and the intake and exhaust are at 2 and 10 (respectively), you are good to go.
Prob is u have that ati balancer and I dont think it has the same timing marks.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 03-24-2015 at 02:43 PM.
03-24-2015, 02:39 PM
#2080
So im okay though? I cranked until #1 was high as it would go far as i could tell and reclocked the position sensor thats why im asking. I had to rotate the sensor to do it,
And yeah no timing mark on the ati unfortunately.
And yeah no timing mark on the ati unfortunately.
03-24-2015, 02:45 PM
#2081
Just rotating the engine wont get that dead on without a comp gauge or lining up the marks.
If timed and lined up correctly, the CPS housing should slide right into the hex of the exhaust cam without issue or rotating.
If it rotates it will through the CPS outta time.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 03-24-2015 at 02:54 PM.
03-24-2015, 02:53 PM
#2083
Either use your comp gauge to determine actual TDC at the comp stroke, or press off the ATI and silde on the factory harmonic pulley just to line up the timing marks on the front cover.
I think using a comp gauge to determine TDC is covered in the LSJ build book.
I think using a comp gauge to determine TDC is covered in the LSJ build book.
03-24-2015, 03:01 PM
#2087
I've always used the screw driver as a guide, but even with the screw driver all the way up it was slightly off on the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and front cover mark.
03-24-2015, 06:22 PM
#2090
Comp gauge hose in cyl4, screwdriver in cyl1. Rotate forward until you start getting air from the hose in cyl4, use the screwdriver in cyl1 to find tdc
Line hash mark up with nub. Install. I recommend taking the sensor out of the housing and stick your finger up there to keep the wheel from rotating.
Line hash mark up with nub. Install. I recommend taking the sensor out of the housing and stick your finger up there to keep the wheel from rotating.
03-26-2015, 03:03 PM
#2092
Just put the tube in and your thumb over the end. When the screwdriver in cyl1 starts coming up, so is cyl4. If it doesn't start pushing air out, go another rotation.
03-26-2015, 07:17 PM
#2094
Think im just gonna get it towed to gm guys, too many ideas not enough diagnostic tools and time.
Matt told me it could have to do with my power steering light being on could have to do with a ground issue somewhere, and the fact that it was taking a while to start could be low oil pressure. I did find a small seep around the front cover.
Matt told me it could have to do with my power steering light being on could have to do with a ground issue somewhere, and the fact that it was taking a while to start could be low oil pressure. I did find a small seep around the front cover.
lol
