CobaltBurst

thanks for the help, im really considering switching to a gm stage 2 kit instead of my intense kit just b/c my priorities have changed. Looking more toward saving for my first house than modding, going to start looking for a junkyard with a supercharger in it since my snout is machined....

also im always using 93, its the highest i can find....

Asphalt Assault

2 things you could do. Do the dual pass intercooler modification or trade s/c snouts with someone else.

your decision is warranted. I would get a house first too. GMS2 is quick, fun, and fills all the holes in the power band. Modding can be then put into getting power to the ground. I have not seen a good recipe for that though. alot of dampeners are sold but not many have talked about how it has improved performance times and 60fts. sure it helps with wheel hop but I now know from personal experience that does not equate to better 60ft. my best 60ft was without a traction aid and on stock tires which was 2.18. If better tires were on the added grip would help with hop. others who have gone to wider tires have found that. Until were able to launch hard good 60's will elude us. I would prefer to do it on street tires but that would require AWD. Oh well.

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

yeah I was pushing over 280 whp and had no problems... with everything actually working it was estimated to be in the mid to high 290s... and my motor is still fine... granted I demodded.. but that was to afford what is to come next

2K5SS/SC?

I wouldn't say this is true. I blew my headgasket with just GM Stage 2, and intake, and exhaust. I guess you didn't read any of my threads a few months ago about the whole ordeal resulting in the headgasket and headstud sticky at the top of the page. Granted I fixed the issue permanently myself, but I have also seen a few others with blown headgaskets on here and on the redline forums. The stock headgasket is definitly a weak point on these engines. It's just a matter of time I believe before people find this out. That's my .02


Tuning is a must though for sure. A good tune can make all the difference between being fast and being broke.

beamSS

that's what i did when i got back home from rob's shop. He said my IDC is 115%. next week im getting my 60# so i can put my 2.8 back. thanks

toydriver00

Sorry there is a lot more to my story than that. Contrary to what is put out on this site, not all dealers warranty GM performance parts modified cars. 3 Dealerships here would not cover it under warranty, plus my driverside CV axle was clicking while turning and going straight, neither of which was covered. I didn't feel like shelling out the money for it, while I was still paying the car note. On top of all of that, I had paid for an extended warranty ( not through the dealer) and the warranty company said that due to aftermarket parts the head gasket was on me.

I know of at least 3 people including me that have had this issue.

Cobalt_Supercharged

That is why I am weary of getting GMS2. I wanted it for the warrantee and the power boost, but seeing that they do not honor the warantee I will do things my own way.

CobaltBurst

is there a way to take off the snout with out pulling off the stock pulley? I was under the impression that when you pull off the stock pully it doesnt go back on. So can u just swap snouts?

Thanks

Cobalt_Supercharged

The pulley has to come off and it will go back on. It just a press on like you would order from Billetflow or SFPHQ. Unless you bend it taking it off.

CobaltBurst

hmm so if i got the stage 2 installed and gave them a diff snout with the stock pulley they could do it all?

Cobalt_Supercharged

I'm not sure how they would take changing the snout, but they should be able to.

Asphalt Assault

That is what I mean. just a handful of people. but that is ok. I remember what it was like when people said they had no problem with the clutch and I did. People said it was because I didnt know how to drive....LOL. Still on original clutch and it broke in since to be very strong.

I know there have been head gasket problems, I dont think it is the owners fault at all, I just question whether it is a weak point. there is just not enough failures to consider it a weak point for all Cobalts. IMO

Asphalt Assault

Yeah I read yours. I cant forget how you were whining and going to sell your car. anyway there just not enough people out there that are experiencing this problem to make it a WEAK POINT of our cars. IMO. I would change my mind if we started to see more of it, so maybe your right. We will have to just wait and see.

2K5SS/SC?

Ouch! That was a little rough, but true. Hey at least I finally fixed the problem myself even know I did whine a little. That is more than I can say for some.

Cobalt_Supercharged

Yeah if I did stage 2 and blow the head gasket I would follow your footsteps and upgrade to the Cometic gasket and Golden Eagle headstuds. Shot peened studs FTW!!!!!

2K5SS/SC?

They seem to be working great thus far. We'll see how they really do when I get back from this deployment and massage a lot more ponies out it.

maxpit

mine blew with a 2.8 pulley and gm stage 2 tune, CAI.

AlphaJaguar5

I seriously think GM put a different gasket in some of you guys SS's just to see what would happen cuz there has never been a RL to blow a gasket. This engine, in a RL at least, never needs a new gasket or even headstuds in the 300+ build...

NJHK

I know this is late and all but this is how I feel about the situation...

I think that you guys in the beginning are kind of lead under the misconception that the M62 is going to be some super duper power adder. I don't mean to beat a dead horse but it does not compare to an properly sized turbocharger. For this reason, from the bat, your M62 roots charger isn't as efficient. Roots chargers are typically in the area of 50% efficient (excuse me if I'm slightly off), turbochargers (if matched properly) can run from 70%-80% efficiency ratings. With this said, you're running on the edge of heat and performance in my eyes.

Also, you're given this air-to-water intercooler system. Your cooling only according to the outside temperature, how efficient the heat exchanger is and the temperature of the liquid. Again, not as efficient as a turbocharged air-to-air cooling system (which isn't your fault, not really possible on an roots charger setup).

To me, it's like you have an oven on top of your engine. Heat is what is causing all these cracked pistons & blown headgaskets. When you see people are cracking a pistons or in some cases melting them, this is a result of extreme heat and detonation. I think it has nothing to do with you reaching your limitations of the LSJ engine, it has to do with the combination of:

1. Your a/f ratio
2. How much heat you're producing (Air Intake Temperatures)

With these 2 things out of wack, you're asking for trouble.

Now, I will say it again, in my opinion, you're limited, period, to an inefficient form of boost. It's a great car for what you get. A nice sub 200 HP car. Runs great on the stock pulley, stock aftercooler setup and stock computer perameters. The problem I think is that people are trying to make something out of this power adder that (in my opinion again) isn't made for. Why do you think GM doesn't warranty lower than a certain pulley size? They recognize the inefficiencies of this specific charger. At a certain point, you're just producing more heat than you are power.

Now if you truely want to keep going with your car, I want you to realize this limitations of your power adder...but not your whole setup. You CAN reach whatever power goal you want but it won't be as easy as say (I really hate to compare) an SRT-4 which you just change the turbocharger and turn up the boost. You don't really have a replacement as far as the power adder goes unless you convert to a turbocharger, so you're main focus should be in your engine or atleast your cylinder head.

I feel the biggest problem, besides lack of knowledge and monitoring, is that people aren't recognizing the fact that the true power lies within their engine, and not necessarily in their supercharger. I have yet to see someone take the time to not drop pullies like crazy and just say "hey, why don't I open up the passage way to my combustion chamber?" Sorry but 19 PSI of manifold pressure isn't going that much to use if the hallway it has to travel down is tiny as **** (figuratively speaking). The valvetrain system is the gate, upgrading it is the key to reaching a much larger power.

Untill people start realizing this and start taking the time to actually open up their engine and spend some real money, they aren't going to go far supercharged (atleast w/the M62). I would get into the whole monitoring device discussion but it's been mentioned enough in this thread.

This was not meant to bash or anything like this but just to put things in perspective (or atleast how I see things). If I said anything that doesn't make sense, excuse me, it's 5 AM and I'm tired lol.

god+1

I thought the stock liquid-to-air intercooler was more efficient than most air-to-airs???

NJHK

From what I've read, it isn't.

god+1

I know this is their own site and thus is probably a bit biased... http://www.opcon.se/index.asp?sPage=1&langID=2&cID=15

I was wondering what you read that said it isn't?

NJHK

From here:

http://product.half.ebay.com/Street-...71702QQtgZinfo

I wasn't saying that isn't efficient at all, but just it wasn't as efficient as a properly sized air to air intercooler system.

I have the book at home.

1gmfanatik

Here ya go. This is to help support super dude Adam. This is from Bell Intercoolers website. I think in addition to proper supporting mods, a good intercooler/aftercooler upgrade may make a HUGE difference.

NJHK

Thanks Andy.