LSJ Important Warning!
#276
I've gotten the LOW COOLANT display, but the coolant is fine. Would this be an outcome of the same failure???
Temp was up to 207 and I turned the heat on, (I'm doing about 45 mph during this time), shifted to neutral and revved up to 4K a couple times, temp went down to 187 in about 10 seconds.
Would I be able to just go to the dealer and have them look at the intercooler to make sure I don't have this issue if I'm concerned that i do?
Temp was up to 207 and I turned the heat on, (I'm doing about 45 mph during this time), shifted to neutral and revved up to 4K a couple times, temp went down to 187 in about 10 seconds.
Would I be able to just go to the dealer and have them look at the intercooler to make sure I don't have this issue if I'm concerned that i do?
#277
There are three main temperatures to keep track of on this car.
IAT1: Intake Air Temperature BEFORE the supercharger
IAT2: Intake Air Temperature AFTER the supercharger
ECT: Engine Coolant Temperature.
IAT1 is for the most part very close to ambient.
IAT2 is the temperature of the air after flowing through the laminova cores of the superchargers coolant circuit.
The ONLY way to view your IAT1 or IAT2 temperatures is by using an OBDII scan tool like HPTuners or an Aeroforce Interceptor.
ECT is its own separate cooalnt circuit and has NOTHING to do with the superchargers coolant.
The driver information center will never report low coolant for the supercharger's coolant circuit because there is no coolant level sensor for it.
The "LOW COOLANT" message you are seeing is in reference to your engine's coolant reservoir, located to the right of your fuse box. You may need to add some coolant.
IAT1: Intake Air Temperature BEFORE the supercharger
IAT2: Intake Air Temperature AFTER the supercharger
ECT: Engine Coolant Temperature.
IAT1 is for the most part very close to ambient.
IAT2 is the temperature of the air after flowing through the laminova cores of the superchargers coolant circuit.
The ONLY way to view your IAT1 or IAT2 temperatures is by using an OBDII scan tool like HPTuners or an Aeroforce Interceptor.
ECT is its own separate cooalnt circuit and has NOTHING to do with the superchargers coolant.
The driver information center will never report low coolant for the supercharger's coolant circuit because there is no coolant level sensor for it.
The "LOW COOLANT" message you are seeing is in reference to your engine's coolant reservoir, located to the right of your fuse box. You may need to add some coolant.
#278
Collants fine. It's happened twice. But the first time I was under accelleration and the second i was on an upward incline. So the coolant probably exposed the sensor a little.
#280
hey so after i read this i figured id go check mine for ***** and giggles. well i toke the cover off and it was slightly below the word "fluid" so i turned the car on. and didnt here the dull whine i thought i should so i tapped it with a hmmer and still nothing. i didnt see much movement in the fluid. any advice?
#282
hey so after i read this i figured id go check mine for ***** and giggles. well i toke the cover off and it was slightly below the word "fluid" so i turned the car on. and didnt here the dull whine i thought i should so i tapped it with a hmmer and still nothing. i didnt see much movement in the fluid. any advice?
#283
my pump when out after we installed my Ottp Heat Exchanger, when we were data logging my tuner noticed the IATS 2 were high, ordered a new pump and installed it yesterday and the car is awesome again, no more cruise mode haha
#285
#288
Joe I'd greatly appreciate a part # for the pump brushes.
*edit* Apparently CB-407 Makita brushes are a close fit, you just have to sand them down and then splice the wires from the original brushes.
#289
ya enabling it in hptuners is the easiest way to know when its running, thats how I have it, otherewise if you have option be it should be spraying pretty hard back into the fluid reservior
#291
Snap-on Verus scan tool ftmfw.. Can turn the pump on and off with the scanner. Turned mine on, put the car on the hoist, hatrickstu hammer mod and bam.. whining and my head covered in coolant haha.
#293
Go air to air and never worry again. Also it'll give you the ability to make more pony's. I just started freakta's he's excited! With the stock luminova setup there are alot of flow barriers and bottle necks not to mention at stock boost levels the luminova's heat soak with one hard pull. It's been proven time and time again!!! I built myself a true intake manifold with a three inch thick bar/fin bell intercooler core and redesigned the flow path and I gotta say the AIT2's speak for them selves! But there is still a problem you'll max your cylinder head out and the major bottle neck will then be your exhaust ports..... But I did make a decent 266/258 with a 2.7 and after seven striaght pulls my AIT2 at idle was 109 and on the 8th pull at 7000 rpms it peaked at 138! Fred at SMG couldn't believe it he said it should be so hot right now that it doesn't register on HPT and he touched the SC and it was cool to the touch, his jaw dropped!!!! Awsome.. So we are trying something new with air/air setup but I can asure you that bell intercoolers seems to think it will perform better as a street setup then my liquid/air setup? We'll see.......
After talking with many people and reading many forums... As everyone is aware, this pump is not made by GM. It is Bosch part no. 0 392 022 002
Now, Mercedes, Sabb, Jaguar, Ford, GM, and probably many others use this exact same pump. So why does ours go out? Is there anyone on this site that can confirm the guage of wire that is used? Maybe that is the problem, starving the pump of current. If so, there are many harnesses that you can get with the new pump that comes with 16 guage wire. If this is truely the problem, you can use a 30 amp relay to solve the problem, and still have the computer controlling the pump.
Any takers out there?
Now, Mercedes, Sabb, Jaguar, Ford, GM, and probably many others use this exact same pump. So why does ours go out? Is there anyone on this site that can confirm the guage of wire that is used? Maybe that is the problem, starving the pump of current. If so, there are many harnesses that you can get with the new pump that comes with 16 guage wire. If this is truely the problem, you can use a 30 amp relay to solve the problem, and still have the computer controlling the pump.
Any takers out there?
Anyone find an answer to these questions as of yet?
*** Sub'd
#296
#298