Hi Guys,

i think you can help me to solve my problem. I have build new engine for my customer. The car is 2005-07 Cobalt SS LSJ.


I have forged L61 2007 HHR 58x engine block with stock crankshaft, eagle rod and wiseco. I have use stock ljs crank sensor on the L61.I have use LSJ head.

When i try to start i have some explosion but the engine wont start..... The reluctor wheel have both 58X. I im really confused about that.........

Do you think my crank sensor are bad? Can i use L61 3 wires sensor with 2 wires conversion for LSJ pcm???

Thank you and scuse me for my bad english!

Pat

 

the reluctor wheels on the 07+ l61 and the lsj are both 58x, however they are clocked differently. the missing teeth on the wheel are not in the same spot in relation to cylinder 1 top dead center. as a result the ocm thinks the engine is in a different spot than it is, and hence why it wont start.

im not sure of a work around for this. you might have to build an external crank trigger setup, or swap the entire wiring harness and computers.

 

you need an external crank trigger set up like stated above or build the right engine using the lsj crank, rods, and pistons

 

you need to get a lsj relucter wheel and line up the dead spots and redrill new holes in the l61 relucter and bolt it on with the new holes

on the crank if its a stock crank it is not a forged unit

 

Did you guys actually measure a later model L61 58x crankshaft and compared the trigger wheel with an LSJ crank??

I know the 2.4 crank timing has some 12 degrees difference, but here in Europe the later L61 engine with 58x trigger is called a Z22YH engine. (L61 = Z22SE).
We found that the Z22YH trigger timing is identical to an LSJ crank.

You can check the trigger marks with a timing wheel on the crank pulley (118-119degrees), but much easier to do like this:

- remove the crank sensor from the block, so you can see the toothed wheel. Maybe use a mirror and a flashlight so you can look in line with the bore.

- put the crankshaft pulley at TDC position mark. Remove the plugs so you can turn the crank easier. You should see 1 tooth almost at the center of the bore. It can be a little higher/lower than center, as the pulley has a bit play on the crank, but this is your 0 degrees tooth.

- now rotate the crankpuley slowly ANTICLOCKWISE and count echt new tooth that rotates through the center till you come to the last tooth before the trigger gap.

- each new tooth is 6 degrees rotation (360/60) and we counted 20 for an LSJ crank. So that's 20x6 = 120degrees.
Easy!