Stout SS

So I already have a GM Stage 2 kit installed on my 06 LSJ by a previous owner and I am wanting to see what my options are to upgrade while staying with 93 octane since I don't have e-85 available in my hometown area.

andrewcarr1993

iTrader: (5)

Get a ZZP stage 3 kit, 2.8'' pulley, 60# injectors and option B then get a HP tune.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

this subject has been covered multiple times use the search button

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-guide-217195/

SSfamilywagon

iTrader: (2)

Dont get a Zzp stg kit. Not worth the money and that Zzp heat exchanger is junk.

Just concentrate on making what you have more efficient cheaper. The 42's will take you far on gas if you keep the pulley big. No smaller then a 2.9

If your on a budget

-air box mod-stock intake is good enough for the M62
-clean up and port the stock exhaust mani
-replace the down pipe
-replace the muffler only
-opt b and dual pass is only cooling mods needed.
-custom HPT tune

If you have money, do 60's, smaller pulley, long tube header/dp

Only spend money where needed. People always over spend and buy stuff they don't need.

Stout SS

mrbelvedere, I had looked at that post before but I am still new here and was wondering what mods I could do with what I already had without going overboard. SSfamilywagon was right on point with what I was looking for though so thanks!

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

I was new here once also use the search button there is more information on here then you could shake a stick at and I was also told to use the search button and I still use it so start educating yourself show others you are willing to help yourself first and not spoon fed information

Micro

You will hear lots of people saying to use 2.8 or 2.9 inch pulleys, but if you want reliable power without heat-soak after multiple full throttle runs, go with a 3.0 inch pulley. I totally disagree with ssfamilywagon about the zzp heat exchanger. The ZZP heat exchanger was a fantastic mod, but make sure you also do the dual pass endplate, and the option B coolant reservoir for the heat-exhanger. I agree with every-thing else ssfamilywagon said.

SSfamilywagon

iTrader: (2)

Mr B has a valid point. Try and read up as much as possible first. Its hard here because there is so much info and opinions. Once you've read enough then ask questions about specific things you don't understand.

Micro I say the Zzp h/e is junk because. ....well it is. Zzp admits its a lesser quality then stock but make because this platform for some reason like having one up front. I have gotten the same if not better results from just opt b and dual pass.

The $2-300 you'll spend on the Zzp can be better put somewhere else. If your gonna buy a aftermarket h/e just get the Griffin.

People will spend $1000+ on an exhaust but won't pony up for a Griffin. ...smh

speedbugy996

Well before I can suggest build options....what are you hoping to do with the car? Track days, autocross, daily driver and fun weekend twisty roads...drag racing. Depending on the answer to that options can be discussed. If track use is the goal start with cooling and suspension mods then add power as the budget allows. I will say this, do your due diligence on research before spending money and the only two vendors I can praise without some sort of caviat attached would be CED and Powel Race Shop. I've bought many parts from them without ANY issues. I can't say that about ZZP or some of the other vendors supporting our cars.

Haven07

The zzp stealth h/e is just as good if not better then griffin is it not? According to zzp'a sight it's 70% larger than griffins so that means it holds much more fluid correct?

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

its not better then the griffin

Haven07

Whys the griffin better then? Anyone do a test to see why?

SSfamilywagon

iTrader: (2)

Because it has a better quality core and a bleed screw

Haven07

Ok didn't know that, was going back and fourth between the two trying to decide which one to get.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

the griffin is a dual pass H.E. with specific size cores that are made out of high quality metal that was designed to transfer the heat out of the water while allowing a greater capacity then stock the zzp stealth is a cheap ass material quality china made core it may hold more fluid but will not transfer the heat as fast as a griffin

Haven07

And now I'm sold

speedbugy996

I went with the Griffin, dual pass end plate and option b. The only problem I had was the zzp end plate being defective right out of the box. The inlet tube were loose in the housing, they suggested epoxy to seal it, no offer of a return/exchange for a proper part. So I ended up going with a Gm dual pass from CED and I have had no more cooling leaks. I am going to a single pass this year though to augment the griffin in case I wanna run tracks down south, Rd Atlanta, Barber..might get to run the new track in Austin too, can't wait to see CODA if it pans out.

Stout SS

As of right now it is just a daily driver that I like to have fun with on the weekends, maybe a race here or there. So I'm just looking for some more power, while still staying with 93 octane and keeping it reliable as I do drive it a lot. My budget doesn't allow for more than maybe 200 roughly per 2 weeks ish for car mods, the Army doesn't pay all that well haha. Also Mr B I will start searching even more before posting then, but I did look for a similar post and couldn't find one.

i944scania

i went with a 2.9, 60s, catback and intake, safe timing HP tune. was a fun car wihtout being annoying and was very safe

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

60s, above said cooling mods, brfpr, tvs, full exhaust. Done. Hello 300+whp on 93 with tune of course

southal cobalt

iTrader: (3)

2.8, 60s, tune

speedbugy996

Being a vet myself I understand the Army payscale thing lol, it sucks but welcome to the brotherhood, embrace the suck! Given what you are doing with the car I agree with SSfamily's mod list and his comment on the zzp heat exchanger, it's nearly worthless. Griffin, dual pass, option b and a GM stage 3 set up, base bushings for shifter, and hardcore rear sway bar from PRS. I'm torn on the hp tuner ecu thing since it is so subject to the tuner's skill and that is a HUGE variance. Gm stage 3 ecu set up will turn off your ac, but anyone with hp can turn it back on easily enough. And do read thru other threads, there is a ton of good info to be found. This will give you a good start and still be reliable and streetable.

Stout SS

Been embracing the suck for 2 years now haha 2 to go but I do appreciate all the input from you guys, it gives me a lot of ideas, it may take me a little while but I will get it there eventually. Also I have no idea what a brfpr is (from 07MetallicSC's post) but I have been thinking about going the TVS route but last I checked it was like 2k for a TVS, that was new though but I think the lowest I seen was about 800 used?

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

you cant turn the ac back on on a stage3 pcm from gm through hpt as they offer no support for it but vince at trifecta may be able to

speedbugy996

I defer to Mr B's knowledge on this note. I was told it could be turned back on, but B knows a lot more about it than who I heard it from so ...