Motor in my DD blew today....
04-16-2008, 10:04 PM
#76
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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i'm figuring mechanic error installing the motor, it came without any of the accessories, so they all had to be swapped over.
here is the thread that i started when it happened:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/problems-service-maintenance-69/car-down-again-88022/
here is the thread that i started when it happened:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/problems-service-maintenance-69/car-down-again-88022/
This new pulley had only been on my car for.....
guess.......
wait for it........
400 miles.
I am glad I already own a spare engine. I hope it works but with my luck I won't lay money on it.
04-16-2008, 10:22 PM
#78
yah as soon as you posted the additional symptoms, i knew right away what it was. have you been able to fully inspect the crankshaft and cam gear for damage yet? if it just happened it may be in better shape than mine. when it happened to me i was driving home from work, and heard a pop noise. i thought i ran over some road debree, until i got the low oil pressure/low volts lights come on. by then i had allready gone a ways down the road so the damage was done.
04-16-2008, 10:38 PM
#79
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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yah as soon as you posted the additional symptoms, i knew right away what it was. have you been able to fully inspect the crankshaft and cam gear for damage yet? if it just happened it may be in better shape than mine. when it happened to me i was driving home from work, and heard a pop noise. i thought i ran over some road debree, until i got the low oil pressure/low volts lights come on. by then i had allready gone a ways down the road so the damage was done.
This is why I am planning on just using the spare and having JBP re-do this engine as my spare for the project car.
04-16-2008, 11:16 PM
#82
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Hmmmm... That sucks big time. Is the crank acutally jacked up and the keyway slot? If there was no keyway installed and the pulley just spun free, is there any other damage to the engine? Can you just put a new crank pulley and keyway on and try to fire it up again after clearing the codes and maybe popping the valvecover to have a look real quick? Just trying to figure out if I missed something here as to why you couldn't do that.
04-16-2008, 11:22 PM
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I didn't know the cam bolts were torque to yield! I know a lot of other ones are, but I didn't know those were! Well, I have lots of miles on them now and they've been holding up great, so I should be good because they certainly would have failed by now if that's the case. Not like I beat on my car or anything! 
04-17-2008, 12:07 AM
#85
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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Hmmmm... That sucks big time. Is the crank acutally jacked up and the keyway slot? If there was no keyway installed and the pulley just spun free, is there any other damage to the engine? Can you just put a new crank pulley and keyway on and try to fire it up again after clearing the codes and maybe popping the valvecover to have a look real quick? Just trying to figure out if I missed something here as to why you couldn't do that.
Yes I could take of the front cover/oil pan and remove the oil and broken piece of the pulley snout. Then I could also clean up everything and replace the key way, if there is no crank damage. Then it would be time to see if the engine will run and hear how it sounds.
It really sounded like a V8 diesel and that was before I limped it home.
After doing all of that work I can still be looking at a spun bearing or bad rod because of the lack of oil pressure. I don't really like the idea of crossing my fingers and hope all turns out okay. This time I still had the truck but it goes up for sale as soon as the car is running again.
I am looking at the most cost effective way to deal with this because the bottom line is, I have an expensive project that sucks up money in mass quantities.
04-17-2008, 12:12 AM
#86
Senior Member
There is plenty of black/burnt oil where the pulley snout broke off. It is almost grease like in it's feel. On top of that there is plenty of aluminum flakes and who knows how far those got.
Yes I could take of the front cover/oil pan and remove the oil and broken piece of the pulley snout. Then I could also clean up everything and replace the key way, if there is no crank damage. Then it would be time to see if the engine will run and hear how it sounds.
It really sounded like a V8 diesel and that was before I limped it home.
After doing all of that work I can still be looking at a spun bearing or bad rod because of the lack of oil pressure. I don't really like the idea of crossing my fingers and hope all turns out okay. This time I still had the truck but it goes up for sale as soon as the car is running again.
I am looking at the most cost effective way to deal with this because the bottom line is, I have an expensive project that sucks up money in mass quantities.
Yes I could take of the front cover/oil pan and remove the oil and broken piece of the pulley snout. Then I could also clean up everything and replace the key way, if there is no crank damage. Then it would be time to see if the engine will run and hear how it sounds.
It really sounded like a V8 diesel and that was before I limped it home.
After doing all of that work I can still be looking at a spun bearing or bad rod because of the lack of oil pressure. I don't really like the idea of crossing my fingers and hope all turns out okay. This time I still had the truck but it goes up for sale as soon as the car is running again.
I am looking at the most cost effective way to deal with this because the bottom line is, I have an expensive project that sucks up money in mass quantities.
pop the top on it and then drop the oil pan.
in tests and such this has happened, say 8 outta 10 times were minimal damage(new oil, new crank, ect)
but 2 of the 10 often went overlooked and re-tested with spun barrings, shot pistons, cooked rods, and warped heads.
the valve cover and oil pan are easy to remove, and make a good visual inspection.
04-17-2008, 12:16 AM
#87
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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tear that whole ***** down Rod.
pop the top on it and then drop the oil pan.
in tests and such this has happened, say 8 outta 10 times were minimal damage(new oil, new crank, ect)
but 2 of the 10 often went overlooked and re-tested with spun barrings, shot pistons, cooked rods, and warped heads.
the valve cover and oil pan are easy to remove, and make a good visual inspection.
pop the top on it and then drop the oil pan.
in tests and such this has happened, say 8 outta 10 times were minimal damage(new oil, new crank, ect)
but 2 of the 10 often went overlooked and re-tested with spun barrings, shot pistons, cooked rods, and warped heads.
the valve cover and oil pan are easy to remove, and make a good visual inspection.
04-17-2008, 12:58 AM
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04-17-2008, 03:14 AM
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There is plenty of black/burnt oil where the pulley snout broke off. It is almost grease like in it's feel. On top of that there is plenty of aluminum flakes and who knows how far those got.
Yes I could take of the front cover/oil pan and remove the oil and broken piece of the pulley snout. Then I could also clean up everything and replace the key way, if there is no crank damage. Then it would be time to see if the engine will run and hear how it sounds.
It really sounded like a V8 diesel and that was before I limped it home.
After doing all of that work I can still be looking at a spun bearing or bad rod because of the lack of oil pressure. I don't really like the idea of crossing my fingers and hope all turns out okay. This time I still had the truck but it goes up for sale as soon as the car is running again.
I am looking at the most cost effective way to deal with this because the bottom line is, I have an expensive project that sucks up money in mass quantities.
Yes I could take of the front cover/oil pan and remove the oil and broken piece of the pulley snout. Then I could also clean up everything and replace the key way, if there is no crank damage. Then it would be time to see if the engine will run and hear how it sounds.
It really sounded like a V8 diesel and that was before I limped it home.
After doing all of that work I can still be looking at a spun bearing or bad rod because of the lack of oil pressure. I don't really like the idea of crossing my fingers and hope all turns out okay. This time I still had the truck but it goes up for sale as soon as the car is running again.
I am looking at the most cost effective way to deal with this because the bottom line is, I have an expensive project that sucks up money in mass quantities.
I guess the way I would test it out would be to drop the pan and pull the valvecover like Paul said. I'd clean it all up and inspect everything carefully to see if there is indeed any damage. If I saw anything bad, I'd pull the motor. If it looked alright and it was just the pulley and cover meshing together that made the mess, then I'd clean it all up and bolt it all back up. Then I'd go for a slow drive and progress into testing it all out slowly but surely.
I mean if the motor is damaged already is it really going to make a difference?
04-17-2008, 01:03 PM
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I didn't know the cam bolts were torque to yield! I know a lot of other ones are, but I didn't know those were! Well, I have lots of miles on them now and they've been holding up great, so I should be good because they certainly would have failed by now if that's the case. Not like I beat on my car or anything!
04-17-2008, 01:18 PM
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Yeah these to to yield bolts have their benefits and drawbacks. Benefit is that they usaully break if you try to over torque them and it a spot with enough grip to get them out. The bad part is that you have to replace them if you do any work! My cam bolts are holding up just fine and I have run her ragged, so I'm good to go. GM doesn't state replacing them in buildbook if I rememeber correctly either.
04-17-2008, 02:23 PM
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Yeah these to to yield bolts have their benefits and drawbacks. Benefit is that they usaully break if you try to over torque them and it a spot with enough grip to get them out. The bad part is that you have to replace them if you do any work! My cam bolts are holding up just fine and I have run her ragged, so I'm good to go. GM doesn't state replacing them in buildbook if I rememeber correctly either.
04-17-2008, 02:41 PM
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04-17-2008, 02:49 PM
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My car took 6 back to back to back 150+ mph runs on the freeway. I made a post saying my motor was fine without knocking on wood (first time I had not knocked on wood), 7 days later it takes 2 145 mph runs, with decent cool down time, to pop my motor. Might as well have thrown a handful of bolts in the intake manifold
04-17-2008, 03:05 PM
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You are a smart man, my friend. Not knocking on wood is worse than running a 300 dry shot of N20 with stock injectors and a 8000 rpm redline
My car took 6 back to back to back 150+ mph runs on the freeway. I made a post saying my motor was fine without knocking on wood (first time I had not knocked on wood), 7 days later it takes 2 145 mph runs, with decent cool down time, to pop my motor. Might as well have thrown a handful of bolts in the intake manifold
My car took 6 back to back to back 150+ mph runs on the freeway. I made a post saying my motor was fine without knocking on wood (first time I had not knocked on wood), 7 days later it takes 2 145 mph runs, with decent cool down time, to pop my motor. Might as well have thrown a handful of bolts in the intake manifold
04-17-2008, 05:54 PM
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Yeah, that does suck. Don't worry though I cracked the cylinder wall and litterally took a chunk out of it too on my Integra not too long ago so I feel your pain. I had a new used engine in it and running not even 4 days later, but that's because parts are a **** ton easier to come by for it! My buddy and I both adjusted the boost controller without telling each other. The car was fast for about 30 seconds after that and BOOM white smoke all over my buddy that was following me! The shitty part is that I had finished replacing the headgasket not even 2 hours prior! I also damn ARP for stating "screw studs into block hand tight." Bastards!
04-17-2008, 10:10 PM
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04-17-2008, 10:14 PM
#100
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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I can understand your point of view on this and can respect that.
I guess the way I would test it out would be to drop the pan and pull the valvecover like Paul said. I'd clean it all up and inspect everything carefully to see if there is indeed any damage. If I saw anything bad, I'd pull the motor. If it looked alright and it was just the pulley and cover meshing together that made the mess, then I'd clean it all up and bolt it all back up. Then I'd go for a slow drive and progress into testing it all out slowly but surely. I mean if the motor is damaged already is it really going to make a difference?
I guess the way I would test it out would be to drop the pan and pull the valvecover like Paul said. I'd clean it all up and inspect everything carefully to see if there is indeed any damage. If I saw anything bad, I'd pull the motor. If it looked alright and it was just the pulley and cover meshing together that made the mess, then I'd clean it all up and bolt it all back up. Then I'd go for a slow drive and progress into testing it all out slowly but surely.
I mean if the motor is damaged already is it really going to make a difference?They have agreed that if it is "mechanic error" then it cost me nothing to get it running again.
I also told them that if something further was damaged because I limped it home, then the work wasn't being done there but a motor swap will be done here at home.
As was stated, if the motor is already shot, it isn't going to hurt to let them put it back together.
Who knows, maybe I got lucky.
FAT CHANCE OF THAT
