Yeah I'm on the bullseye s256et. Mines a little bigger than the normal ones too. Bigger exhaust wheel and larger turbine cover

 

what kind of timing are you running Josh? Im running pump gas @ 25psi on a bigger turbo with 18-21* on top. I only notice it breaking up when its really hot, Itll knock and get very unhappy. otherwise runs like a champ.

 

I couldn't get my car above 15* of timing on pump 93 without it knocking. Running 22* right now

 

Fck knock! seriously tho I want 0 knock at all times lol. Just curious are you not on meth? Cus it doesn't matter how hot it gets once my meth kicks in it's a winter wonderland.

 

progress. Worked on the car today between thunderstorms and sick. Didnt do a thing yesterday. So I have 4 hours into the install now.



The PO used a hose and clamps on the tubes that came with the Turboxs blow off valve. Here I matched up the tube to the bov and it matched perfectly. No flange needed. This has an oring inside the BOV and is held in place with three set screws followed by three set nuts. This way is a cleaner install and keeps the BOV from popping off.




Driver side routing allows contact with the tire as you can see the rubbing on the powdercoat. Inner fender has not been fitted yet but not sure I will be able to get that plastic panel back in its place as of yet.



The cold side piping with modified plastic panel to allow movement of the piping through the fender area. Could have just discarded the plastic but I want all the protection from the elements I can get under there.

 

might want to get some t bolt clamps for your pipes. it sucks having them pop off

 

they are all tbolts except the one on the coupling on the driver side. Its the only one with the cheapies. May have to make a run to the store for more though.

 

Nope not running meth, possibly later in time. If I get too much knock, Ill just dump in some 105 and run that lol

 

Hey guys, Im having issues with my theft deterrent system since the swap/new pcm. I have no idea how to fix it, has anyone else ran into a problem with their system? Basically my alarm goes off no matter what I do.

 

you need to do the security relearn


1. Depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
2. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
3. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
4. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
5. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
6. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
7. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. The car should start on this attempt.

 

I'll go try it, but the car does start, runs, and drives.

But I mean, that's what I dont get, how does it start, run, and drive? But starting the car doesn't turn the alarm off...

 

Does anyone else think our engines look as beautiful as jewelry?



Copper sprayed the Hahn Manifold, MLS gasket and head.



Tapped my oil pan.



Cleaned my oil pan. I recommend mineral spirits.



My oil system compared to Hahn's oil solution that uses the drain plug. Fail



Tapped area just below the turbo on a nice flat surface of the pan.



Tap and 11/16 socket.



Giant oil return using a 3/8 NPT and RTV sealer. Fitted for the Hahn oil tube with a JIC fitting.



Dirty oil pan, had some dirt in it but probably from pulling it.



9/16 Drill bit, 3/8 NPT tap, 3/8 NPT fitting/ Hahn sized JIC pressure fitting (dont recall the size). Cost 30 bucks.

 

My build will be on hold for a while. I broke a pressed in fitting on the thermostat housing and now it leaks coolant. I have one being shipped from mongorat, he has great stuff for sale. I would have been turbo'd tonight! But alas something always goes wrong...

 

That re-learn is just for the pass-key system, and won't help with the horn honking 'alarm'.

 

would going turbo on a ss/sc using a zzp turbo kit cause lots of issues like CEL , abs , and all that good stuff? or car will work like normal. i mean its like super modding in action in less than a day?!?

 

Car will work like normal..

 

If you have a tune everything will work great. When I installed my kit I took it around the block untuned and went into engine power reduced mode the second it saw anything above 0psi. Limped it to my tuner driving very lightly and everything was fine.yhe reason for this is because bein turbo the scip sensor or boost bypass solenoid is no longer connected and the second your in boost you'll get thrown into limp mode because the ECM is monitoring the data For the scip sensor and there are no readings getting reported bc it's not installed anymore.

 

Awesome good to know. Time to save some money and go turbo. Gonna use my sc on my leaf blower -_-

 

That's gonna be one hell of a leaf blower.

 

I need the shorter alternator bolts. Is this the right part number? I need to order 3 of them from the dealer...

GM 11519178

 

Anyone here with the S256 have compressor surge, and I'm not talking about the bov flutter. If you were in 3rd doing 60 then gradually go to 100% throttle (within 3-4 seconds) does it surge?

 

no surge here

 

Strange, I have the S256 nET, I assume you have the S256ET?

 

what do you mean by surge? video of it?

 

Skip to around 1:30 - I had thought it was the BOV but that's not the case

Ion Redline - Compressor Surge? - YouTube

I've talked a bit to Matt about it, it seems to happen more often when rolling into the throttle, but even when just stomping on it you get a little bit.