don't worry i get turbo surge also with the 256et. it can't be my bov because the spring isn't that strong it stays open at idle. i'm probably going to get a ported cold side housing

 

I wasnt going to ceramic powder-coat it but I had it off the car and the car was down for other things so why not. My manifold had some bubbling in the ceramic so the shop is going to do a second coat and fix the tiny little bubbles they weren't happy with. LOL, I would have ran it...

 

Yea might have too, just don't really feel like spending $500.

 

Installed my gauges into my new pod, the pod, the scangauge were free from the guy I bought the turbo.

I bought the LC-1 because it was one of the best wideband controllers out there and it has the ability to modify tables with compuer software and a serial port. Default is the 5v system. There is a wire for the gauge and a wire for the hpt to log wideband data. Also found a custom place to route the LC-1, like GM knew I was going to install it there. LOL, look how tight that tucked into that recess, and the wire loom behind the brake lines. PERFECT.

 

Isn't the anti-surge essentially the same as have a ported housing?

 

nope, a ported housing allows more flow. an anti surge is vents on the front side of the housing that allows pressure to pass backwards instead of causing a lot of pressure to be applied to the compressor wheel in the wrong direction

 

Interesting, and that's where they mill a small channel around the inlet of the turbo correct?

 

yep they look like this:



2 diff styles, the one on the left makes a cool sound, the one on the right lets more air out (this one isnt opened up more for look, mine has holes there, gives you an idea of what they look like though)

c130 I really like the way you routed the wiring under the car, Im going to look for that spot on my car and route similarly

 

1. holy giant turbo, makes my 20g look itty bitty. LOL
2. Thanks, I was messing around installing my gauges and found that little recess holds the cable perfectly. It doesnt slide around and will only come out if your unhook the o2 sensor first. Perfect and damage proofed.
3. I know my gauges dont match and it bothers me a bit. I will worry aobut it some other time but I have the basics covered. retard, timing, and af ratios at my fingertips. Very happy so far. The guages were free.

 

has anyone used the phenolic spacer with turbo swap? tried looking it up but cant find anything. did it show any improvements?

 

i have it. don't have any before/after's though since i changed from my hahn manifold/custom piping and ic to the zzp setup

 

Pointless for a turbo.

 

i thought so. figured id ask just to make sure

 

Our manifolds get hot too.

 

what manifold is that?

 

so I got a problem, when I go WOT I get a little bit of over boosting for example when the boost controler is set to 7 PSI I will Go WOT and Boost will shoot to 10 then drop down to 7 its really anoying and the faster I spool up the higher it goes. 10psi setting will shoot to 14 then drop to 10 any ideas whats causing this? im using a K04

 

That is the same size turbo that I have on my car currently

I have one, and used them on previous cars. It does make quite a bit of difference

not pointless. It can seperate the intake manifold from the heat of the motor. It can significantly drop IATs even on a turbo. It may be less of a differentiation than on a SC car but every bit of cooler air helps and will allow for more boost.

Its a boost spike. make an adjustment to your wastegate/boost controller/ bov to have the system respond more quickly and release the sudden pressure. Unfortunately, with a smaller turbo you can spin it faster than those pieces can respond resulting in a boost spike that will drop back down once the system responds.

 

touche'

Especially in 100+ deg Texas...

What kind of AIT differences were you seeing? A few degrees or was it significant?

 

I have an aluminum log style manifold so maybe my heat transfer is more then the saab manifold I dunno. I've thought about the spacer for a while now, granted my temps drop to around 50-60 when the meth kicks in on a hot day in FL anyway.

 

Todays update:
I was able to put my ceramic coated manifold on the car today. Installed my new to me thermostat housing and Hahn mailed me a new stud, nut, and T3 gasket. Problem is when checking the turbo and the hole on the back of the engine the high pressure fittings were damaged. Now I am delayed once again for something small. I have broken or found damaged parts for two weeks now. Never thought the car would be down this long just for little stuff, parts take 3 days to ship so I am looking at another weekend before I get this thing together. I bought the kit used for 1800 but I bet I have an extra 1-200 dollars in extra expenses. At least most of the parts will be new and reliable since I am finding all the broken stuff before I install it.

 

Meth/water is going to cool down that thing way better than the few degrees I think you would get out of the phenolic. Sounds like you have a the right setup for cooling already done.

 

E85 > meth

 

When I get to my next base (Arkansas) in a few months do you think I can get near 400 hp on E85? Reliably? Slow boost ramp, maybe.

 

I beat the hell out of my car on 25psi and 23* of timing. I only broke an axle. 400whp should be no problem on e85 and the 20g

 

No it's not..