2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!

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Old 04-02-2013 | 09:14 PM
  #4851  
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From: newportnews va
while i dont doubt youve seen it before ive hand my hand in many motors as well and havent seen any signs of wear or elongation. You sure the ones uve seen havent had the balancer on and off or running the ATI?
Old 04-02-2013 | 10:13 PM
  #4852  
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From: KY
the balancer being removed and replaced has nothing to do with it you have a 1/4in or less of the key grabbing the dampener and that is why it bends/shears and elongates the key way another reason why is because the dampener is also a slip fit not a press
Old 04-02-2013 | 10:46 PM
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Hey guys, what would be the best compressor/turbine a/r combination if I want a relatively quick spool (3-3500-ish) and want to make around 320-330 hp? I've been looking at precision turbos a lot and I'm close to making a decision, but I just wanted to ask around before I actually purchase the turbo haha.
Old 04-02-2013 | 10:49 PM
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From: The 405
.48 if they offer it and you're okay with 320-340
Old 04-02-2013 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921
.48 if they offer it and you're okay with 320-340
Yeah honestly I probably won't go over 350 max, I'm planning on boosting around 15-16 psi, would that be enough to get me in the low 300s? And yeah, the Precision 4431 has a 58mm compressor wheel, 57mm turbine wheel, and it comes with a 48 a/r turbine housing, that should be sufficient right?
Old 04-02-2013 | 11:00 PM
  #4856  
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From: The 405
58mm is a pretty big compressor. same as a 259 turbo. but i'm curious as to how it would do on a .48 turbine
Old 04-02-2013 | 11:09 PM
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That's what I was saying lol, that is a pretty big compressor wheel, the turbine wheel is 57mm, there are two choices for the housing though, 48 a/r and 63 a/r.
Old 04-02-2013 | 11:14 PM
  #4858  
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From: Houston
so, if you guys had to choose between getting a new clutch, or getting a PnP job w/zzp springs, which would you choose? Serious question...
Old 04-03-2013 | 12:40 AM
  #4859  
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From: The 405
what clutch. what clutch are you on now with miles. and is it slipping.
Old 04-03-2013 | 08:13 AM
  #4860  
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Currently I'm on an exedy clutch with about 10-15k miles....the last few thousand being used at the eighth mile by someone else. It's not slipping, but with the new short block going in, I'm questioning whether I should keep using the old clutch. Not too mention it would be easier to put the new clutch in now as oppose later.
Old 04-03-2013 | 12:49 PM
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From: The 405
i personally would go with the head.
Old 04-03-2013 | 01:54 PM
  #4862  
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From: Lakeland
Does $1500 seem right for engine rebuild labor? Of course we are talking about getting everything completely out of the car, cleaned, disassembled and reassembled plus he said he does additional deburring here and there etc. With total cost of parts his labor and machine shop I'm looking at around 4500-5000 grand for my motor rebuild and this doesn't include sleeves. only upgraded parts I'm aware of are the k1 rods, diamond pistons, klevlite bearings and ARP studs. All new gaskets, misc bearing, bolts sensors etc...He siad he thinks the reason my bearings and rotating assembly had issues was due to failure of my balance shaft bearings getting chewed up putting shavings and additional debri into the oiling system.
Old 04-03-2013 | 02:00 PM
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From: KY
seems a little high to me are you pulling the engine
Old 04-03-2013 | 03:21 PM
  #4864  
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mexi ill go with the PnP head all day. clutch can wait and take some more beating
Old 04-03-2013 | 03:55 PM
  #4865  
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From: Lakeland
Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
seems a little high to me are you pulling the engine
no I didn't pull a thing.
Old 04-03-2013 | 04:27 PM
  #4866  
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From: The 405
that moment when you realize you're only going 12.6 because your downpipe was never clamped on the turbo 100% of the way and killing the spool.
Old 04-03-2013 | 04:33 PM
  #4867  
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i went to put the turndown on the end of the downpipe and when i disconnected the vband for the catback the downpipe just swung down against the swaybar lol. thing had so much play in it. i didn't feel like taking the hot side pipe and dump tube off to get to it so i just put it on jack stands real quick and spent like 30 minutes reaching up there and turning the wrench like 1/8 of a turn at a time.
Old 04-03-2013 | 04:33 PM
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From: The 405

Old 04-03-2013 | 05:20 PM
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From: KY
Originally Posted by jonnymerk
no I didn't pull a thing.
if your not pulling a thing then that's not to bad
Old 04-03-2013 | 06:37 PM
  #4870  
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From: Lakeland
Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
if your not pulling a thing then that's not to bad
ty lol...it's so hard to tell friends and family that don't understand. I didn't plan on this build and tbo I have no idea how I'm gonna get the money together. It is nice to hear someone confirm that the costs are in check at least.
Old 04-03-2013 | 08:14 PM
  #4871  
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From: newportnews va
Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
the balancer being removed and replaced has nothing to do with it you have a 1/4in or less of the key grabbing the dampener and that is why it bends/shears and elongates the key way another reason why is because the dampener is also a slip fit not a press
Ud be surprised. I've seen dumb asses not line the key way up exact and force the balancer on causing issues later on.
Old 04-03-2013 | 08:41 PM
  #4872  
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Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921

Holy snot that's gonna roar
Old 04-04-2013 | 12:14 PM
  #4873  
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From: sidney mt
Car is still alive! Haha
Old 04-04-2013 | 01:39 PM
  #4874  
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Marks car is going to be supper loud I did this for a day and i had a headache after a 15 minute drive. haha
Old 04-04-2013 | 01:43 PM
  #4875  
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From: The 405
couldn't upload the video till today. she was running yesterday



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