Which galley plug do I remove to install the oil feed line for my turbo?

 

I haven't actually installed my kit yet, one more week while I wait for my exhaust manifold to come in. However, the 5531 was recommended to me by the nice guys at Precision. I told them that I want quick spooling (between 3400 and 3600), that I want to make around 330-350whp, and I told them that I have the Cobalt SS with the 2.0L LSJ in it, and that's the one they recommended to me. The 5531 MFS has the new CEA technology which allows it to spool much quicker than its normal counterpart. Plus it's rated at about 500hp if I'm not mistaking. I'll definitely be posting more once I actually install the kit though.

 

And Bad-a-ss it's right under where the manifold would sit in the back, here's a thread that contains a picture of where the galley is located.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...ne-tap-225238/

 

Ok and im guessing I should wrap the threads with Teflon tape?

 

see the braided line in this picture? Its the passenger side next to the water pump.

I got a picture for everything.

 

not the high pressure line, no, its a -an fitting, pressure fitting. Just make sure its new brass, otherwise you might have leaks.

 

bad a ss dont use hahns oil solution, take the return line to a hydraulic power equipment store and get this fitting. I dont recall the -an but its big. The other one in this pic is hahns oil solution through the plug. DONT USE IT. Oh and only use teflon tape on NPT fittings not JIC or -an fittings. They are pressure fittings, none needed.

 

Yeah don't wrap the AN side with anything, you never need to seal a flared end on anything. For the side going into the block however, ZZP recommends GM grey sealant, but I'm sure you could use another brand that does the same lol :P The only think I would worry about with Teflon tape is it getting into your oil, which would be bad. Plus I'm not sure if teflon tape is oil resistant.

 

Dont use anything for the block side, you should have a copper crush washer, do not over tighten this fitting into the block or it will break. Use the copper crush turn to finger tight then add about a quarter turn.

 

Hey c130 pm a price for that o2 sensor by the way and I know the pressure fitting doesn't need any but I should wrap some around the fitting going into the block where the galley plug used to be correct?

 

Alright let me see what I have here from Hahn

 

we posted at the same time, I went and got a brass fitting for my turbo line and used the blocks thread to -an brass fitting. I used a copper crush washer. quarter turn past finger tight.

 

Alright I have a copper crush washer and the return line fitting is bigger than the Hahn one you have it looks like

 

are you tapping the oil pan? If so I recommend this location, its flat and high in the pan (above the oil int he pan). Also dont use rtv for any assembly of this engine, use the ac delco rtv from the dealer. You only need one tube for the entire engine, for everything. The Part Number is in my turbo duck thread.

 

I don't know if I want to tap it or take it to a machine shop to be welded in. And the fitting I have for the oil pan is a 90 degree fitting

 

Nevermind lol I could still use the same fitting ha

 

in this pic there is a 45 degree bend away from the camera, if you look closely you can see it bending towards the axle. I dont think you have a 90 degree fitting, I think its 45. 90 degrees is a right angle.

 

No I mean the fitting I have that should go into the oil pan is a 90 then the pressure fitting is a 45

 

i would get a straight version of that fitting, the less bends the better.

 

True and I most likely know the answer to this question, but I want to crank it up and see if anything leaks will it be fine to do? I will be one 80s instead of 60s like my tune is for

 

scale the injectors first, takes like 5 minutes if you have hpt. Then fire it up. Get tuned right away.

 

I need to get HP Tuners, and learn how to tune lol, I'm sick of driving 2 and a half hours everytime I want to get tuned :P

 

Ok guys. Built my custom pids in the scanner config files to log and tune in lambda. My issue is the car isnt wanting to go in PE until like 7,500 rpms. Its not even being commanded in the log until then. Has anyone had any issue with the one bar scip sensor that is now in my manifold seeing boost when on the SC it wasnt? Im thinking the info from the scip sensor may be skewing things with the PCM

 

This is a good question it doesnt make sense to be installed on the manifold. its pre boost, now its seeing boost.

 

Exactly. Some say it shouldn't cause and issue and some leave it disconnected and disable the dtcs