Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
#5329
#5330
#5332
#5334
#5339
pulled the broken piece out of the pan after I removed it with pliers. Then I bought a used one from mongorat and bent it by hand to shape around my sheetmetal intake manifold. You dont need any other dipstick but the LSJ one and rebend it to fit your needs. ZZP says you need their turbo dipstick but its bull.
Also I have a hahn oil dipstick mounting bracket made from tig welded aluminum. Its the little touches I like about Hahns turbo kit. Their manifold I cant speak to fondly of at the moment, but thats a different story.
#5340
i broke mine pulling it out, Yeah I am a man! LOL. It broke at the top o-ring due to New York salted roads. It was stuck and hella flush when it broke. HAHA.
pulled the broken piece out of the pan after I removed it with pliers. Then I bought a used one from mongorat and bent it by hand to shape around my sheetmetal intake manifold. You dont need any other dipstick but the LSJ one and rebend it to fit your needs. ZZP says you need their turbo dipstick but its bull.
Also I have a hahn oil dipstick mounting bracket made from tig welded aluminum. Its the little touches I like about Hahns turbo kit. Their manifold I cant speak to fondly of at the moment, but thats a different story.
#5341
Oh yeah about that, Hahn emailed me and offered to fix it for free and use a different way of welding it. They also offered me a deep discount on a new manifold they sell, not to buy the knock off one that is sold by another vendor (knockoff manifold doesnt use a billet front plate, they just weld on a chunk of aluminum and tap that for fittings). Anyway Hahn has been really good about emailing me back when I have a question or anything about my second hand turbo kit. That is big in my book.
So I already sent my manifold to a race car builder for new welds. I am then going to reenforce it with an aluminum tube to keep pressure from ballooning the sheet metal. The front and back are 1/2" T6061 aluminum but the wrap from the top around the side to the bottom is thinner 1/8 so it flexes under boost. I think I have come up with a way to make it indestructible.
Its a technique that i use when I build subwoofer enclosures, I brace the wall opposite of the subwoofer to keep the box from flexing but keeping the walls thinner for lighter weight.
I really want to maintain the intake, there is a 17wtq and 10whp difference from the stock LNF intake to the sheetmetal intake on the same turbo and fuel.
So I already sent my manifold to a race car builder for new welds. I am then going to reenforce it with an aluminum tube to keep pressure from ballooning the sheet metal. The front and back are 1/2" T6061 aluminum but the wrap from the top around the side to the bottom is thinner 1/8 so it flexes under boost. I think I have come up with a way to make it indestructible.
Its a technique that i use when I build subwoofer enclosures, I brace the wall opposite of the subwoofer to keep the box from flexing but keeping the walls thinner for lighter weight.
I really want to maintain the intake, there is a 17wtq and 10whp difference from the stock LNF intake to the sheetmetal intake on the same turbo and fuel.
Last edited by c130aviator; 05-01-2013 at 06:10 PM.
#5345
#5346
Aint that the truth :/ I just went with the saab intake mani. Coulda kept my hahn but I didnt wanna deal with the cracking
#5349
Just found a diagram that shows the line from the turbo hooking up to the bottom port and the top port vented to atmosphere does this sound correct? Look on page 6
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-cont...Y_12_rev_2.pdf
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-cont...Y_12_rev_2.pdf