i'm waiting for mine to go

 

I have a set of k1 rods if you need some replacements. And a set of diamond forged pistons as well.

 

I'm ordering my Dial Bore Gauge now and getting ready to throw the block up on the stand. Maybe I'll have this thing together this summer.

 

You still got your cobalt Rob??? Im almost done with tuning on mine. Then off to dyno and get some results back to Bill.

 

Yep, it hasn't ran in a long time though. I might finally get it back on the road this year.

 

Damn right so what kind of build are you going to be doing?

 

Basic. It's an LNF block with LSJ internals; JE Pistons; P&P head w/ ZZP valve springs.

I'll be sticking with my HP5558e, but I've been thinking about dropping to the .48A/R turbine housing so that I've got wicked fast response time and a thick mid range... but I'm still undecided on that. I'll still be using the Vulcan Intake Mani that I've always had on the car, but I'll most likely be going with the Treadstone Turbo Manifold.

If I stick with the .63A/R housing, I'll probably keep it on a tame 25psi... if I drop to the .48A/R, I'll shoot for 30psi. Either way, I'm not really looking for a number, so much as a fun, nimble, responsive car. It should make low to mid 400whp/wtq though.

 

get it done dude

 

When did you do the first turbo swap on it? I know it was a few years a go at least. Back when Bryan still had his tvs car.

 

Ok so I'm having a few issues with my turbo swap. I have pieced a zzp turbo kit together but I'm running custom charge pipes and intercooler. Ive placed the bov and maf sensor in the cold side of the intercooler piping. The car surges at start up and no matter what we do in hptuners we can't get to idle correctly. It wants to and the only way we have gotten it to idle correctly a few times in 3 hours is to fail the maf and run no timing. Other than that it keeps bouncing between 1-2k. I wish I had some screen shots of the logs but I have nothing. I can't find any vacuum leaks noticeable and put fresh plugs (bkr7eix) at .32 in. I had to do a case relearn on it to because the computer swap I believe(swapped with a friend because I was trifecta tuned), but after I did it the code went away. No unusual codes now except a throttle body performance code which hasn't popped up in awhile. It registers and responds correctly in hptuners.

Any ideas?

 

is the bov between the maf and throttle body or is it before the maf and throttle body?

 

zzp and hahn both put the blow off valve about 1-2 feet down the charge pipe before the intercooler, this keeps flow issues away from the maf. Maf is also reading temperature and mass air flow obviously. If the BOV is located close it can cause it to read in a non-linear fashion. The BOV should also be located closer to the turbo so as the car goes into vacuum it lets the pressure out near the turbine and in practice helps with a lot of boost issues. (boost creep, surging, blah, blah).

I havent had any issues with my setup in this configuration all the way to 28 psi and run it daily at 24.

 

Oh that must be what's going on. I have the bov about a foot away from the throttle body and then the maf is about a foot from that. Bov opening too close to the maf?

 

more like under vacuum the bov is staying open and its pulling unmetered air in through the bov rather than across the MAF. That would be it.

 

Ok so relocate the bov to before the intercooler and keep the maf before the throttle body

 

maf should be in a good length of straight piece of pipe about 2 feet from the throttle body. The BOV should be before the intercooler but just after the turbo about a foot or two from the turbo.

 

Yeah its in the zzp maf housing which is about a foot in length. Add the couplers and its about 18 inches

 

never dynoed the car but on 26psi pulled on a vette on a 150 shot of nitrous pretty badly. 3 times. After the back to back pulls was when i heard the rod noise. found a good source on rods, but since i have to tear her down i may just install the sleeved 2.1L block that ive had for a while now. My diamond psitons that were in the car are fine rod was tweaked a little, cyl 3 was 130 psi and cyl 4 was 180. 1& 2 were at 220psi which is were they always were

 

z, please post pics of the tear down/rods, thanks man.

 

I found a dyno of a SR20DET (2.0L obviously) at 29 psi making 580 RWHP with that beign something like 700 crank horsepower, I am sure you were running into the 600 crank area on 26.

Did you get your valves fixed? Or did you just swap on a different head?

 

btw thank you for pushing those stock rods to 600+, its good to hear or at least have an estimate of where they let go. What kind of mileage was on the stock rods?

 

I did my first swap across the first few months of 2009... waiting for parts from various sources was a real time killer, Vulcan Turbo being the biggest wait at something like 2 months. Finished it up in early May 2009, and then left for deployment at the end of May... so I only got to play with it for a few weeks before heading out to Iraq.





Came back to home to it in January 2010. Bought a new turbo and turbo manifold in May. CED in June. The car was at ZZP a week or so later getting the custom charge piping and Return Fuel System that was on Ryan's car (wasn't offered for sale at the time).





And then melted the piston in late November 2010. It's sat around since then. Having other fun cars has probably been the real motivation killer, along with buying just tons and tons of other fun things... like firearms.

 

it wasent 600+ the stock rods start bending around 550

 

Just wanted to ask yall guys is $100 worth all stock suspension from a 2010 SS/TC that has about 45k miles on the suspension???

 

finish that thing! i know i will be passing this s/c kit off to someone else soon so i can go turbo