Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
08-10-2013 | 11:21 PM
#6426
08-11-2013 | 12:08 AM
#6427
08-11-2013 | 12:12 AM
#6428
Yes, the stock baffling sucks. So add a can. I absolutely never said a separator was a bad idea, not sure why your point was there...
Anyway, that's fine. But keep the stock port on the back of the vc so that you actually have some vac on the case when out of boost.
By drilling a hole and using a larger like you've increased airflow through the crankcase but lost vac. This is also a big vac leak that youre now forced to tine around. The oil in your can is blowby. As is the gunk on a stock tb/s inlet.
Your system is working like a stock one but is different on these ways:
Your fresh air inlet is too big. You have less case vac than stock
It is unmetered air, causing a self-made vac leak that you must tune around.
The only benefit you've made is that when your rings are trashed thanks to not having proper case vac, at least is wont pop the dipstick and make a mess thanks to your added line.
Anyway, that's fine. But keep the stock port on the back of the vc so that you actually have some vac on the case when out of boost.
By drilling a hole and using a larger like you've increased airflow through the crankcase but lost vac. This is also a big vac leak that youre now forced to tine around. The oil in your can is blowby. As is the gunk on a stock tb/s inlet.
Your system is working like a stock one but is different on these ways:
Your fresh air inlet is too big. You have less case vac than stock
It is unmetered air, causing a self-made vac leak that you must tune around.
The only benefit you've made is that when your rings are trashed thanks to not having proper case vac, at least is wont pop the dipstick and make a mess thanks to your added line.
. Hehehe
08-11-2013 | 08:57 AM
#6431
to the inlet manifold, then perhaps it would work.
atmospheric breathers work pretty much, but are not allowed in cars and trucks anymore due to environmental concerns. 99% of the cars I see at car shows have atmospheric breathers. And clearly most folks dont understand or care about retaining vacuum based PCV systems.
The new Camaro has a little bit of a PCV issue and the latest is an oil filler seperator device, with a vent line to the back side of the throttle body. New C7 has a patented PCV system. DI.
08-11-2013 | 09:42 AM
#6432
Josh there is a filter on top of your breather can, right? so yup no vacuum going on there. If the can was sealed and you returned the gases ( that would be collected in the catch can along with the oil)
to the inlet manifold, then perhaps it would work.
atmospheric breathers work pretty much, but are not allowed in cars and trucks anymore due to environmental concerns. 99% of the cars I see at car shows have atmospheric breathers. And clearly most folks dont understand or care about retaining vacuum based PCV systems.
The new Camaro has a little bit of a PCV issue and the latest is an oil filler seperator device, with a vent line to the back side of the throttle body. New C7 has a patented PCV system. DI.
to the inlet manifold, then perhaps it would work.
atmospheric breathers work pretty much, but are not allowed in cars and trucks anymore due to environmental concerns. 99% of the cars I see at car shows have atmospheric breathers. And clearly most folks dont understand or care about retaining vacuum based PCV systems.
The new Camaro has a little bit of a PCV issue and the latest is an oil filler seperator device, with a vent line to the back side of the throttle body. New C7 has a patented PCV system. DI.
08-11-2013 | 09:53 AM
#6433
John, were friends, so don't take this the wrong way. But you're missing some pieces here. And I could pile on all the information in the world and it wouldn't change your mind so go ahead and run a big ass vac leak and have someone try to tune around it. Hopefully your rings will seat without vac.
This is the "cams at 10&2" argument at Jordan's all over again
08-11-2013 | 10:04 AM
#6434
No, he doesn't. Because of that massive line running from the oil cap to the vented can. Air is flowing through, yes, but it's a massive vac leak and nearly zero crankcase vacuum.
John, were friends, so don't take this the wrong way. But you're missing some pieces here. And I could pile on all the information in the world and it wouldn't change your mind so go ahead and run a big ass vac leak and have someone try to tune around it. Hopefully your rings will seat without vac.
This is the "cams at 10&2" argument at Jordan's all over again
08-11-2013 | 10:07 AM
#6435
Get an ultra-low pressure check valve from Powell and put it in the like from the oil cap to the breather, so that flow can only go out of the case in this line.
Remove the filter on the can and add a line in place of it that runs to the intake tube pre-turbo as close to the impeller as possible.
This way, your self made vac leak is as tiny as possible which will help with tuning. Additionally, when wot, the line on the intake tube will creak a minuscule Venturi effect to help remove blowby gasses through both lines.
When you return to vac, check valve closes and everything goes back to normal.
Last edited by armcclure; 08-11-2013 at 10:13 AM.
08-11-2013 | 10:08 AM
#6436
Putting an air/oil separator in the stock line is far different from what were talking about here.
08-11-2013 | 10:15 AM
#6438
I have a hose running from the back of the vc running too a tee along with a hose from the oil fill cap to the same tee then to an oil/air separator to the intake tube pre turbo for constant vac at all times. Is this the correct way or bad? I havent followed all the arguments between you guys. Just curious if my set up is ok
08-11-2013 | 10:19 AM
#6439
08-11-2013 | 10:22 AM
#6440
No, he doesn't. Because of that massive line running from the oil cap to the vented can. Air is flowing through, yes, but it's a massive vac leak and nearly zero crankcase vacuum.
John, were friends, so don't take this the wrong way. But you're missing some pieces here. And I could pile on all the information in the world and it wouldn't change your mind so go ahead and run a big ass vac leak and have someone try to tune around it. Hopefully your rings will seat without vac.
This is the "cams at 10&2" argument at Jordan's all over again
John, were friends, so don't take this the wrong way. But you're missing some pieces here. And I could pile on all the information in the world and it wouldn't change your mind so go ahead and run a big ass vac leak and have someone try to tune around it. Hopefully your rings will seat without vac.
This is the "cams at 10&2" argument at Jordan's all over again
08-11-2013 | 10:31 AM
#6441
New Member
Joined: 05-09-13
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Nova Scotia
Hey guys,
i'm pretty new but have been on RLF for a while.
I just had a couple questions figured i'd ask here rather than making a thread
for a turbo setup - most likely just ZZP's full kit - do I want a non-resonated catback? their options are like "resonated for supercharged" and "non resonated for turbocharged" so I figure I won't want that?
I'm not 100% sure if I wanted to go turbo or not yet, so I was going to just do exhaust/s3 kit because its "cheap" and I figured I could sell both afterwards for not much of a loss.
was just wondering if I could/should keep the catback if I decided to go turbo.
also, do any of you run their full kit? I was wondering how the race tune works etc, i would not mind paying the $500 for the race tune, but would I need a dyno tune afterwards as well or does it get the most for the car/reliable as well? I don't care about squeezing extra HP out, its mostly going to be reliability>>power as long as i have around 325-350 wheel if I turbo swap.
They say it has adjustable launch control etc, how would you change that? specify when you buy, or is there some way to adjust it w/ laptop? would you need to use HPT?
Just wondering what I'm getting myself into
thanks
i'm pretty new but have been on RLF for a while.
I just had a couple questions figured i'd ask here rather than making a thread
for a turbo setup - most likely just ZZP's full kit - do I want a non-resonated catback? their options are like "resonated for supercharged" and "non resonated for turbocharged" so I figure I won't want that?
I'm not 100% sure if I wanted to go turbo or not yet, so I was going to just do exhaust/s3 kit because its "cheap" and I figured I could sell both afterwards for not much of a loss.
was just wondering if I could/should keep the catback if I decided to go turbo.
also, do any of you run their full kit? I was wondering how the race tune works etc, i would not mind paying the $500 for the race tune, but would I need a dyno tune afterwards as well or does it get the most for the car/reliable as well? I don't care about squeezing extra HP out, its mostly going to be reliability>>power as long as i have around 325-350 wheel if I turbo swap.
They say it has adjustable launch control etc, how would you change that? specify when you buy, or is there some way to adjust it w/ laptop? would you need to use HPT?
Just wondering what I'm getting myself into
thanks
08-11-2013 | 10:37 AM
#6442
Hey guys,
i'm pretty new but have been on RLF for a while.
I just had a couple questions figured i'd ask here rather than making a thread
for a turbo setup - most likely just ZZP's full kit - do I want a non-resonated catback? their options are like "resonated for supercharged" and "non resonated for turbocharged" so I figure I won't want that?
I'm not 100% sure if I wanted to go turbo or not yet, so I was going to just do exhaust/s3 kit because its "cheap" and I figured I could sell both afterwards for not much of a loss.
was just wondering if I could/should keep the catback if I decided to go turbo.
also, do any of you run their full kit? I was wondering how the race tune works etc, i would not mind paying the $500 for the race tune, but would I need a dyno tune afterwards as well or does it get the most for the car/reliable as well? I don't care about squeezing extra HP out, its mostly going to be reliability>>power as long as i have around 325-350 wheel if I turbo swap.
They say it has adjustable launch control etc, how would you change that? specify when you buy, or is there some way to adjust it w/ laptop? would you need to use HPT?
Just wondering what I'm getting myself into
thanks
i'm pretty new but have been on RLF for a while.
I just had a couple questions figured i'd ask here rather than making a thread
for a turbo setup - most likely just ZZP's full kit - do I want a non-resonated catback? their options are like "resonated for supercharged" and "non resonated for turbocharged" so I figure I won't want that?
I'm not 100% sure if I wanted to go turbo or not yet, so I was going to just do exhaust/s3 kit because its "cheap" and I figured I could sell both afterwards for not much of a loss.
was just wondering if I could/should keep the catback if I decided to go turbo.
also, do any of you run their full kit? I was wondering how the race tune works etc, i would not mind paying the $500 for the race tune, but would I need a dyno tune afterwards as well or does it get the most for the car/reliable as well? I don't care about squeezing extra HP out, its mostly going to be reliability>>power as long as i have around 325-350 wheel if I turbo swap.
They say it has adjustable launch control etc, how would you change that? specify when you buy, or is there some way to adjust it w/ laptop? would you need to use HPT?
Just wondering what I'm getting myself into
thanks
08-11-2013 | 10:42 AM
#6444
The only issue is the line on the oil cap is unrestricted, causing a free flow and low case vac. Either remove this line or install one of powell's check valves as I mentioned to josh and your tuning will become much easier along with actually having vac on the case instead of just flushing air through it.
08-11-2013 | 10:43 AM
#6445
08-11-2013 | 11:58 AM
#6448
08-11-2013 | 12:06 PM
#6449