I see a lot of hopes and dreams

 

Hey, that's what 87% of the cars here run on

 

lol

 

We wouldn't have anything in life if we didnt have hopes and dreams for something

Yup all those slow bikes :p

Yup all those slow bikes :p

 

ill take my low and slow on my bike lol

 

A few sick races tonight. 1200whp twin turbo vette vs a turbo busa and a 2.3 whipple term vs gtr full bolt ons and e85. Rode in the vette. ****** nasty

 

Lolololololl that's some 1320video stuff right there!

 

Can anyone tell me where to run my MAF sensor on my lsj turbo swap?

 

I already did in the thread you made.

And, because I'm whoring it out... https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/feat...-fcotm-303499/

 

The depend entirely on your desired setup. I'm running a pull through setup, unlike boat on here. But This allows me to run a 3.75" maf housing without disrupting airflow, as well as keeping the w/m off of the sensor.

 

Talk about fun finding the boost leak if u get one.

Its some where post maf.... fuucxccc

It was a blast!!

 

How would draw through maf have any effect on that.
I have only 2 couplers. There's very few places it could possible leak.

 

Nope, not seeing anything about it.

Where do you have the maf sensor?

 

arm what bypass valve do you use on your setup? I was thinking about switching to a draw thru

 

Haven't decided. I have both an hks ssqv with recirc fitting and a zzp 50mm.

I've been doing a lot of research and a bov on a draw through setup CAN be tuned around with ltft boundaries and dfco, along with smart driving (I.e. not being a tool and blowing off every chance you get). Ill give it a try if the ssqv doesn't flow enough.
For a DD I would recommend a full recirc or maybe a turboxs hybrid.

 

Oh yea. Straight too t.b. setup. Right?

 

Yessum. 1/4 the volume of tubing to fill compared to a "standard" setup.

 

Even if you were running a standard setup, it wouldn't make any difference in difficulty when pressure testing the system. Just like any factory turbo car that uses a draw through setup.

 

Right. Not worried about it. Ill probably have to bring VE back into the tune to get a stable idle with the 3.75" maf but nbd. Running draw through gives me 3 main benefits:
1) I can run a large maf housing that smoothly tapers down to the compressor inlet.
2) I can run a metric crapload of w/m without worrying about it getting on the maf or pooling in an intercooler.
3) PCV plumbing is WAY simpler and will be much more effective; I will have vac on the case even at 30psi.

 

Just bought a brand new set of zzp #82's for $200

 

I have a 2.4 tb on my 2.2 already so i can just put my stock one back on and take that one.

 

Hey I have a few questions about turbo swapping. I've read a little of this thread but I just want a few specific answers and I haven't found the answers yet. I have a stock LSJ engine, meaning I have a stock top and bottom. I am looking at getting a s256 ET turbo kit. What are my limitations? What would my limitations be if I put just valve springs in? I understand turbo cams would help out but at what point is the bottom end just not strong enough? Or is there simply no way to avoid destroying the engine? I know people run these on stock engines so what are some numbers you are running and for how long?

 

Hey Jon, care to chime in?

 

I made 508whp 445wtq on the stock longblock with a s256et on 28psi and e85.

 

Just finished up my LSJ turbo swap and was wondering if i have compressor surge and how you guys routed your bov. I have a line come off the intake manifold down to the top port of my bov. Where do i need to connect the bottom port of my bov?