0069 is on, the one I'm getting

 

the code P0068 and P0069 are turned on but:



The tuner has it so that the test for the P0068 will not run below 8,000 rpm.

If your tuner will set this to 800 rpm, your car should fail immediately and go into Engine Power Reduced mode. If so then one of the 3 sensors MAF/MAP/BARO is dead and has to be replaced

 

I still maintain that overall it is a fuel issue but I cant determine that without seeing the Injector Duty Cycles in logs

 

damn good call didn't know p0068 was on that tab as well

 

So since it still trips 0069 when I boost(and well under 8000 rpm) then I should replace the baro?

 

no it's tripping the p0069 because that sensor should not be there, find a plug or something for that spot.


like I said leave that sensor in there but unplug it, see what it does

 

Hey guys just did my zzp turbo swap with 256. I'm having an issue with an exhaust leak that my mechanic can't figure out for the past 2 days, all gaskets have been replaced, everything is tightened down, nothing is loose. He's doing a smoke test as we've exhausted all options pretty much. Could something possibly be bad from fabrication that it's leaking?

 

Thanks a bunch guys! Will do

 

I wouldnt replace any sensors until we can see logs, we can see what the MAP MAF and Baro sensors are seeing itll be quite obvious when one isnt displaying a signal or is incredibly erratic. Your car needs to run the tests on those sensors, so he has to turn that back on by setting it at 800 rpm like GM has it set.

The SCIP has a different code set, the p0069 is MAP / MAF where MAP is the actual MAP sensor

 

Its possible in some cases, especially when dealing with stainless, that the flange is warped and leaking, smoke test will definitely smoke that out lol, if it is the flange, you can either discuss with zzp or have some one put a lathe to it and get it smooth

 

did you tighten the manifold nuts in the correct order?

lol I would be extremely impressed if you could flatten that flange on a lathe

 

wrong word sorry, brain is dead, the warp can be smoothed with the proper tool

 

lol its okay im just ****** with ya



you can bring the manifold to a machinist and they can straighten it on a mill

 

belt sander... lol thats what i used to clean mine up, but yea Mill is the way to go with a warped flange

 

lol that works too

 

Matter of fact mine is in the shop now getting milled

 

how many of you guys are running a fuel pump rewire kit?

I'm on the stock pump+80s and the pump can't keep up anymore. I'm gonna replace it with the aem 320 e85 fuel pump but keep the stock in-tank fuel pressure regulator. Should I get a rewire kit too? I was thinking I would with a ZZP order I'm putting in soon but they took it off there website.

 

Your fuel system stock besides 80s?

 

yep

 

Do pump, rewire, return system and my ID1000s lol

 

you'll sell me all of that?!?!? for $20?!?! DEAL

 

$19.95 sir

 

 

My install. Found these pipes to be a right fit.

Zzp 256et
tial bov

Nothing special. Just the regular kit.

Quick question. The oil feed line. Mines is pretty short but normal to all I'm assuming. Said don't let it touch the manifold. I have attached the open dump and well that feed line is in between the dump and manifold. How did ya route this line? I was about to zip tie it to the coolant line for the heater core.

 

Mine touches the manifold but the black protector around it protected it last season. Heat wrap the manifold and dump if you are worried, I just did