For those that haven't heard.....



Granted, it smoothed up a good deal once I actually dialed them in. This was the very first startup and it was about 30* outside.

 

nice! so whats your whp goal alan?

 

Anyone having a hard time with lean/rich from rear o2 delete? Its set to no error reported in HP but I still get weird behavior sometimes. If I just plug the o2 back in and mount it under the body, would that help instead of just a connector lying there?

 

I haven't had a problem before, you need to make sure all the secondary o2 codes are set to "3-No error reported"


The secondary o2 is 100% for catalyst and primary o2 checks, it has nothing to do with fuel delivery.

 

I know that the the rear o2 checks the cat but its the strangest thing. There's nothing else that can explain it, and on HP tuners there are other people who believe removing the rear o2 causes the computer to go crazy occasionally, since its a checking system that is now gone.

My car literally starts commanding a weird 16afr or something all of a sudden. After half a min it starts commanding like 12. And this is at idle. The another min goes by and the car is fine up to 14.7 afr for 20 miles.
My evap purge goes to 0% and the front o2 displays weird voltages. I replaced both to see if issue would stop

 

That's because you have the codes set to no error reported.
The PCM thinks everything is supposed to be ok (no codes) but it can tell something is up. So it will run a rich/lean test when you come back down to idle.
Change one of the rear o2 codes to "no mil light" and disable ses. This will set the code but not give a check engine light. If any o2 codes are present, the rich/lean test cannot run.

 

Well I ran it through virtual dyno (which was within 10whp/tq on my sc setup) and it put out I think 405/350... Somewhere around there. And this was accidentally on low boost.
I have low set at 17, high at 24-25. The top end now feels every bit as strong on 17 as it did on 24 with stock cams.
I'm going back to the dyno on the 19th with a couple guys just for fun so hopefully we'll see mid 400's without trying too hard.

 

anyone run a stock lsj throttle body on an lsj turbo and mani? I need help with throttle body scaling numbers. Cannot get it quite right. car runs well, just a little laggy pre boost and throws CEL for tb and misfires that i dont feel.

Just max the numbers out? idk im lost

 

Stock mani with adapter plate? You shouldn't "have" to change anything.
If anything, take scalar up a little.

Those tables don't do anything off idle though.

 

I could watch videos of people boosting from 40-100 all day long.
Cant wait to go turbo sometime late this year

 

Sorry its not from 40

 

close enough

 

I'm getting new tires tomorrow guys, I've got a few options.
225 40, 225 45, 245 40, 245 45.
What is the best tire to keep my 2nd gear spin in control without rubbing besides a little on uturns?
Currently running 215 45 18s, stock sc rims.
I searched for info and everyone's got a different opinion.... would be great to hear from the Lsj t guys

 

I wouldnt go any wider than a 225 on stock rims. 45 sidewall will give you a hair more traction...maybe. Depending on how low you are you might rub on a 225's. My tires rub on hard turns on teins and my brothers car does on coils with the same tire setup. I think compound of tire will make more difference here than 10mm of tire width.

 

I am stock suspension, so sounds like might as well go for the 225 45? I'd hate to have a giant gap with the 40 too

 

The main thing like SPD said is the compound of the tire. Width will help, but putting a good quality tire on there will be the determining factor for traction.

 

im lowered on Pedders Springs with 235/40 tires without any rub issues

 

The rear O2 delete, especially on the 07 cars will cause all kinds of ghost issues no matter how you command the CEL. I have ran into this, as well as bryan (area47) and really theres no need to delete it anyways leave it in keep the pcm happy

 

leaving the rear o2 in, you cant run a catless dp without getting a light. There really isnt a great option with HP Tuners to control that, we realistically need to be able to change the definition of catalyst failure inside the PCM.

 

The PCM reacts off of codes, not lights. You can still set it to no mil.

 

I always just set them to No MIL, but the only way to do an actual delete is to change what the PCM is looking for when reading the rear o2

 

Yea I just turn the 420 code off. I've never had an issue. I tried deleting the rear o2 and my car was super pissed off. I put it back in. U can also grab an anti fouler spacer and it won't trip the 420 code

 

But I don't have a rear o2 bung, its being used by my wideband
And I'm cat less. So can I reconnect that o2 and just hang it under there so the pcm gets some communication?

 

i will be in the same boat unless i sell my current turbo setup to go bigger

 

Dang. Turned up the boost and lost traction. Guess I need better tires