its not my way

you can do what you want race how ever you want but one day when you decide to listen maybe you wont be setting on the side lines

 

Hahaha not me. I'msitting right where I wanna be.

 

good ill remember that

 

s259 is biggest I would suggest on a car that is not set up for full drag racing, i.e. mostly street driven.

If its a trailer queen that lives its life on the track, I would suggest a larger frame turbo like s366 or s372, nitrous, slicks, high end axles, bad ass clutch, some form of line lock/trans brake system that will allow you to build boost at the line, cams set up for top end power (mid and low range power is not significant in drag racing).

as long as the turbo can be full spool before 5k rpm, launch above that, rev out to 8500+ rpm, shift, still in boost because it doesnt fall below 5k rpm, power will be right back on and going, thats the only way to use any of that power, and slicks, slicks, slicks you wouldnt run a race in boots, why are you making your car do it and then expecting to be fast?

 

That is your opinion, which you are fully entitled to. But that doesn't mean very one else has to love it. 1/8th cars are nasty, as well as 300' sand drags, multi engine pulling tractors, mud bogs, road course, autocross, dragcross (<-- which is AWESOME), etc.
There are many forms of racing and auto sports, and several ways to enjoy our cars.

If this hx doesn't satisfy me I may have a discound line on a 362

 

362s are awesome, they werent around when I bought my 366 or I probably wouldve gone with the 362

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/fron...thread-311048/

Lsj-t ftw?

 

whats everyone running on stock engines for power and boost? and how many miles?

im around 320whp at 20 psi to4e 125k miles.

idk if i want to retune and run more power, not sure whats safe to keep my car until at least 160k

 

voted

 

Thanks

Do a compression and leak down. ARM has 160k on his and he gives no ***** because the engine is healthy

 

Ran 185-190 psi all cylinders last weekend. the exact same since i went turbo over a year ago. I take good care of it too, oil changes every 4-5k. and only occational pulls.

 

whats arm running for power?

 

About 500

 

stock internals??? my godd

 

I want 550whp plus spray

 

did you ever decide whether or not to go turbo?



does anyone else have input on miles/power for the lsj?
I need as much input as possible before i try to squeeze 25psi/370hp+ out of this setup @ 125k miles, healthy engine

 

Jon made a little over 500 in his redline with stock internals. Idk his username on here though. I know arm tuned him

 

I dyno'd 460 on 26 psi, then on the street ran 30 psi. Then switched to a bigger turbo and ran 28.
So just under 500.
This engine has broken every single timing chain component other than the chain and gears, some parts multiple times. Now it has bigger and stronger bolts in every spot; I drilled out and tapped the m6 holes for m8 and used arp bolts.
I also dyno'd this engine at 317 on the m62 at 120k. Before the turbo swap at 150k it had 205 compression and less than 5% leakdown. With these new cams my dynamic compression dropped a ton to 175 but it's holding steady along with leak down.

Another good point to mention though is that I don't ram tq down it's throat. Keeping cylinder pressure moderate in the midrange takes a lot of stress off of the internals.

 

so ever since ive had my car, its run a between 185-190 compression for all cyl.
in my case, im running about 320-330 whp at 20psi. We are going to try 25psi, so probably not even 375whp.
Would you consider this safe, with my given information? currently, i have had no issues at all. 125k

 

Same compression tester every time, and using the same procedure?

 

yeah, i ran a test when i was sc with a 2.9 and 60s. numbers were right 185-190.
Last week, after being turbo for a year they were all 185-186.

We also tested my brothers vr6 turbo with a head spacer, and that came up with 135-140.
helped to verify the tester wasnt giving a set reading.

I just pulled one plug, pulled the fuel pump fuse and coil connectors, and screwed in the tester. turned the engine maybe 5 times before the gauge stopped climbing

 

Ahh that could be part of it. It will rea different with the throttle closed.

All you have to do is put both the clutch and gas to the floor before cranking, this shuts off the injectors and opens the tb. Try that and let us know what your numbers are.

 

so hold the gas and clutch before and while you crank?

does this mean im running lower numbers...

 

Your numbers are not out of line, don't worry. You should be doing the test with the throttle open though, as Alan said.

 

What did u guys / gals use for a 3 bar map sensor?