Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
#1726
try my turbo. it is 28lbs.... I put it on the scale to be sure when they had the shipping weight listed on the quote. and on the last install i aligned it and pushed it up with one hand and put the first 2 nuts on with the other.
Thats a clutch that no 4cyl cobalt would ever need. The pro stock cobalts get that style
speaking of clutches, mine is coming out and headed to ACT for warranty repair/replace they are saying that I most possibly destroyed the diaphragm in the pressure plate. the pressure plate "fingers" move with the TOB but the friction surface never disengages.
On a side note my new toy is installed and Ive ran a few pulls. The car is making ~25psi between 45-4800 which is drastically faster than before. Decided to beat up on a skittle on my way home from the LSB. He came up with his lil whoosh valve and so I floated gears down to 4th and began to boost, got up next to him, he took off and I blew his doors off a moment later. slowed down and got from him. Hockeyman and Asherby85 were following behind lol'n at the guy. Of all the SC balts in our line, he chose the TC swapped one to **** with.
l8r,
PD
Thats a clutch that no 4cyl cobalt would ever need. The pro stock cobalts get that style
speaking of clutches, mine is coming out and headed to ACT for warranty repair/replace they are saying that I most possibly destroyed the diaphragm in the pressure plate. the pressure plate "fingers" move with the TOB but the friction surface never disengages.
On a side note my new toy is installed and Ive ran a few pulls. The car is making ~25psi between 45-4800 which is drastically faster than before. Decided to beat up on a skittle on my way home from the LSB. He came up with his lil whoosh valve and so I floated gears down to 4th and began to boost, got up next to him, he took off and I blew his doors off a moment later. slowed down and got from him. Hockeyman and Asherby85 were following behind lol'n at the guy. Of all the SC balts in our line, he chose the TC swapped one to **** with.
l8r,
PD
#1729
Installing my kit and the next day I'm limping it over to BYT. Something came up and I might be able to install the turbo kit a week earlier then I expected. Now the question is, should I wait to install it two days before I get tuned or should I install it week before? if I install it earlier I'll have to drive to work a few days on my current tune. I'm unsure how it's going to run on the current tune and all, not sure if there's going to be issues with where the maf placement is and stuff. I dont mind a weird idle i just dont want to get straded on the highway on my way to work. Not going to be ripping on the car at all or doing more than half throttle, just want some opinions. I'm impatient and rather install this sooner than later.
#1730
Installing my kit and the next day I'm limping it over to BYT. Something came up and I might be able to install the turbo kit a week earlier then I expected. Now the question is, should I wait to install it two days before I get tuned or should I install it week before? if I install it earlier I'll have to drive to work a few days on my current tune. I'm unsure how it's going to run on the current tune and all, not sure if there's going to be issues with where the maf placement is and stuff. I dont mind a weird idle i just dont want to get straded on the highway on my way to work. Not going to be ripping on the car at all or doing more than half throttle, just want some opinions. I'm impatient and rather install this sooner than later.
l8r,
PD
#1731
Yea I wanna break 500whp on pump on a completely stock motor. Im getting close.
if you are going to do that then def leave the 60s that you are tuned for currently in the car. DO NOT BOOST and check the MAF placement. The car should idle and cruise without change if you leave the 60s in it. your car is going to throw a **** ton of codes, so keep a code reader and figure out which ones are serious and which ones you dont need any more
l8r,
PD
if you are going to do that then def leave the 60s that you are tuned for currently in the car. DO NOT BOOST and check the MAF placement. The car should idle and cruise without change if you leave the 60s in it. your car is going to throw a **** ton of codes, so keep a code reader and figure out which ones are serious and which ones you dont need any more
l8r,
PD
#1732
Yea I wanna break 500whp on pump on a completely stock motor. Im getting close.
if you are going to do that then def leave the 60s that you are tuned for currently in the car. DO NOT BOOST and check the MAF placement. The car should idle and cruise without change if you leave the 60s in it. your car is going to throw a **** ton of codes, so keep a code reader and figure out which ones are serious and which ones you dont need any more
l8r,
PD
if you are going to do that then def leave the 60s that you are tuned for currently in the car. DO NOT BOOST and check the MAF placement. The car should idle and cruise without change if you leave the 60s in it. your car is going to throw a **** ton of codes, so keep a code reader and figure out which ones are serious and which ones you dont need any more
l8r,
PD
#1735
It will be risking the sleeves mostly because of the weak spots on the water jackets. The sleeves themselves are extremely strong for what they are. With the correct support they can handle ~1000whp. The pistons are rather strong, its the rings that will give up first. I have a theory as to why this particular engine has held up so well but most think Im nuts when I talk about it.
Bingo! the actual plan is to push the limits of what the stock motor can handle until it comes apart on the dyno. Then Ill spend the next few days swapping in the built motor. Ill actually be more worried about the built motor than the stock one.
Ive seen countless "built" motors ending up in pieces with less than a year of drive time on them and then there are stock engines with over a million miles that see regular abuse without failure.
I shock people when I tell them everything that I have put this motor through. Try this with a built motor:
Drive thousands of miles with stops only long enough to get fuel on more than one occassion.
Race it almost daily
Drive greater than 130miles per day
Cover 10k miles in a month
Cover more than 50kmiles a year
Average oil/filter changes every 10k miles
Upgrade your FI, and let it run hot by not replacing the IC pump
Go 30k miles WITHOUT an oil change
Put a gigantic turbo on it
Produce huge amounts of boost
push it to over 100hp/cylinder
Keep it as your DD
there are others that I have put this engine thru but cant think of it all right now.
LSJ>All Ive never had any car handle what Ive put this one thru.
I believe in my LSJ and what its capable of. I can honestly tell you that I dont think 500whp will be where it gives up. I think it is very capable of getting to the 600whp mark before it just cant handle it anymore.
I do have to say that one of the most important things with all of it the tuning. When you heat the cylinders with a smaller turbo and leaner mixture you will def tear them up as opposed to my larger turbo with less heat. Its not seeing the cylinder pressures that most do.
So I have to thank Chris for all of the tuning help without his help im more than positive this engine wouldve already come apart
l8r,
PD
#1738
Not that savy with those turbos but guessing the compressor inducer is 52mm on one and 56mm on the other.
What size is the inlet? 3" or 4"? Not sure if you can get the 252 as a 4" or the 256 in a 3" but someone else will chime in on that.
What size is the inlet? 3" or 4"? Not sure if you can get the 252 as a 4" or the 256 in a 3" but someone else will chime in on that.
#1739
I looked up pictures and pretty sure I got the right turbo. What made me have doubts was mine looks like mpcobalt's turbo but Im pretty sure he got the wrong one and I got the right one.
#1741
lolz I wouldnt be mad either and you are right, simply remove the cover and check the size of the compressor wheel. 52mm and its the 252, 56mm and its the 256.
Ill get you a log very soon. Been dealing with ACT and looking for a new clutch to hold me over until they can send me a new one.
l8r,
PD
Ill get you a log very soon. Been dealing with ACT and looking for a new clutch to hold me over until they can send me a new one.
l8r,
PD
#1744
Im already at 438whp with 175k on the COMPLETELY ORIGINAL STOCK MOTOR.
It will be risking the sleeves mostly because of the weak spots on the water jackets. The sleeves themselves are extremely strong for what they are. With the correct support they can handle ~1000whp. The pistons are rather strong, its the rings that will give up first. I have a theory as to why this particular engine has held up so well but most think Im nuts when I talk about it.
Bingo! the actual plan is to push the limits of what the stock motor can handle until it comes apart on the dyno. Then Ill spend the next few days swapping in the built motor. Ill actually be more worried about the built motor than the stock one.
Ive seen countless "built" motors ending up in pieces with less than a year of drive time on them and then there are stock engines with over a million miles that see regular abuse without failure.
I shock people when I tell them everything that I have put this motor through. Try this with a built motor:
Drive thousands of miles with stops only long enough to get fuel on more than one occassion.
Race it almost daily
Drive greater than 130miles per day
Cover 10k miles in a month
Cover more than 50kmiles a year
Average oil/filter changes every 10k miles
Upgrade your FI, and let it run hot by not replacing the IC pump
Go 30k miles WITHOUT an oil change
Put a gigantic turbo on it
Produce huge amounts of boost
push it to over 100hp/cylinder
Keep it as your DD
there are others that I have put this engine thru but cant think of it all right now.
LSJ>All Ive never had any car handle what Ive put this one thru.
I believe in my LSJ and what its capable of. I can honestly tell you that I dont think 500whp will be where it gives up. I think it is very capable of getting to the 600whp mark before it just cant handle it anymore.
I do have to say that one of the most important things with all of it the tuning. When you heat the cylinders with a smaller turbo and leaner mixture you will def tear them up as opposed to my larger turbo with less heat. Its not seeing the cylinder pressures that most do.
So I have to thank Chris for all of the tuning help without his help im more than positive this engine wouldve already come apart
l8r,
PD
It will be risking the sleeves mostly because of the weak spots on the water jackets. The sleeves themselves are extremely strong for what they are. With the correct support they can handle ~1000whp. The pistons are rather strong, its the rings that will give up first. I have a theory as to why this particular engine has held up so well but most think Im nuts when I talk about it.
Bingo! the actual plan is to push the limits of what the stock motor can handle until it comes apart on the dyno. Then Ill spend the next few days swapping in the built motor. Ill actually be more worried about the built motor than the stock one.
Ive seen countless "built" motors ending up in pieces with less than a year of drive time on them and then there are stock engines with over a million miles that see regular abuse without failure.
I shock people when I tell them everything that I have put this motor through. Try this with a built motor:
Drive thousands of miles with stops only long enough to get fuel on more than one occassion.
Race it almost daily
Drive greater than 130miles per day
Cover 10k miles in a month
Cover more than 50kmiles a year
Average oil/filter changes every 10k miles
Upgrade your FI, and let it run hot by not replacing the IC pump
Go 30k miles WITHOUT an oil change
Put a gigantic turbo on it
Produce huge amounts of boost
push it to over 100hp/cylinder
Keep it as your DD
there are others that I have put this engine thru but cant think of it all right now.
LSJ>All Ive never had any car handle what Ive put this one thru.
I believe in my LSJ and what its capable of. I can honestly tell you that I dont think 500whp will be where it gives up. I think it is very capable of getting to the 600whp mark before it just cant handle it anymore.
I do have to say that one of the most important things with all of it the tuning. When you heat the cylinders with a smaller turbo and leaner mixture you will def tear them up as opposed to my larger turbo with less heat. Its not seeing the cylinder pressures that most do.
So I have to thank Chris for all of the tuning help without his help im more than positive this engine wouldve already come apart
l8r,
PD
#1748