i've been on the 3 bar map since I switched over to turbo.

 

Idk honestly how far the stock map runs and yep on 93 and pulled the knock out. It only knock when Turbo started spooling had a lil to much there so its knock free

The GM 3 bar map loco?

 

yep. the same one they sell for the lnf.

 

FrossB, the che-che-che sound that your turbo makes after the pssh from the BOV is compressor surge. It also made it on your first shift in the video and no BOV sound was made which means it either didnt open or didnt open much. Any time your car goes into or near boost, your BOV should come open as soon as your throttle plate closes. It will eventually kill your turbo. There should be an anti-surge compressor housing for your turbo or a softer spring in your BOV. I really like this style housing:



The holes are "anti-surge" ports that vent pressure as well during throttle plate closed situations.

chris, I know your giving me **** lol, We have a couple of boxes of Tial BOVs at work that they install on the CNG trucks during their conversion. Ive been considering "borrowing" one lol.

No real point in swapping over to the 3 bar MAP sensor on the LSJs. The MAF will do pretty much everything you need it to do and it can read up to 16000. Im not sure but Ive heard that ZZP has some unlocked maps that allow you to tune past the factory limits of 11xxx. Maybe someone will have more insight on that than I.

Ugh, I need new rings so I can make more horsepowers...

 

thats what i figured. i tried getting Treadstone to hook me up with that anti-surge porting but no go lol.

guess i need to get a new spring then eh?

 

I def would, a softer spring will save your turbo later, the housings arent horribly expensive, you can possibly find a blown turbo with that compressor housing for cheap and swap it on to yours.

 

what spring would you recommend?

 

all i can really find on Turbosmart's website is an 18 in/hg spring for my bov

 

Ive not gotten a lot of experience with the turbosmart BOVs, what spring is in it now? is your BOV hooked up to vacuum? the nipple on top of the BOV being hooked up to vacuum will help the valve to open as well

 

well according to the spec sheet on their website, i have the 18 spring. and my bov is hooked directly to the intake manifold port

 

You do need to borrow one! I get no surge, flutter, anything. I love my Tial.

Also ZZP doesnt do it really, its the trifecta overlay. Basically its an expensive way to have a Mini AFC, around 300 for the tune. Trifecta manipulates the MAF values like the AFC does but the thing is the AFC is more controllable, not just set in the tune like the overlay.

You need new rings and pistons my friend! haha

 

Thread stuck

 

That surge is terrible, fix that ASAP. Vivid sells a 15, amazon sells a 10-15. I think you need a blue.

 

only time i heard his surge was when he was in light boost lol but yea technically shouldn't ever happen my tial blows clean all the time

 

x2...

 

Can anyone get me a link to this map senor couple people mentioned in here

 

its on ced site for like 18 bucks. But like i said youre wasting your time pcm cant read over 21.7 pounds of boost anyways. Just tune around it

 

what number is the blue? 15?

 

thanks

 

I need a new motor, with the cams that we were talking about today, rev this damn thing way out and watch the number climb. Then who cares if it doesnt spool til 4800rpm, itll rev up over 8000, Ill have plenty of power band lol.

has anyone ever ran an SAFC on an LSJ? I had one on my DSM way back when but never considered installing one on this car. As always, if Trifecta sets it up, only vince can change the values im guessing. I dont get why someone that can unlock and manipulate so much cant share that ability with others. I have a friend here with a Trifecta tune on his SC and the AFR is like 11.3 at WOT, and timing is low compared to other cars with the same pulley that Ive worked on, he keeps begging Vince to make the tune more aggressive and Vince flat out says no. blah lol I guess if all else fails Ill just plan a MOTEC or AEM standalone setup in the future.

Thanx a ton, been waiting to see when that would happen

bingo, no need for it, just set up your map tables in case your maf fails, as long as the maf is good, just use it.

 

It doesn't cause surge, but it does cause air turbulence, which will cause a lose in horsepower.

You don't really need it. They look nice... but who's going to see it? If you have a good BOV, you have nothing to worry about (So I guess you actually do need it, LOL!). That's also a much larger housing (4" Inlet/2.5" Outlet) opposed to the T04E you are using (3" Inlet/2" Outlet). The S covers (T04S & T04SP) are more efficient as your air flow demand increases. They flat out flow better. BUT they take longer to build PR, so you're going to see more lag. The E covers start to choke around 500-550whp. The higher the PR, regardless of flow, the quicker they die out. So unless you are shooting for over 500whp, you'd be better off sticking with the E cover paired with a nice BOV (See: Tial).



The Ported Shroud Cover (T04SP) functions to move the surge line further to the left by allowing some airflow to exit the wheel through the port to keep surge from occurring. This provides additional useable range and allows a larger compressor to be used for higher flow requirements without risking running the compressor into a dangerous surge condition. The presence of the ported shroud usually has a minor negative impact on compressor efficiency.





You'll lose your cluster, cruise control, auto-volume (assuming you're on stock radio), power steering, and a few other things, iirc. Once you switch to a stand-alone... the BCM won't work... and all the things I just mentioned are controlled by the BCM.

 

Im actually going to be making a custom short ram intake here pretty soon so that will take care of the turbulance. Cant decide if i want to do 3,3.5,or 4" tho. Thoughts?

So the order of fixes for the surge would be: replace bov spring to something softer > new bov (tial) > ported cover?

PS, thanks for the good info!!!

PSx2, your car is what sold me on getting a big turbo, specifically the 5557

 

4" probably be best... just in case you ever do upgrade compressor housings.

And yeah, that looks like the best order to fix surge. On my very first turbo swap, I started with an HKS SSQV. SOB didn't open at ALL... no matter what the adjustment on it. Swapped to the Tial and never looked back.

PS, No problem.

PSx2, It does work. Once the built engine goes in... it'll do even more work.

 

Once I got to a standalone, none of that **** will matter anyways lol. Itll be a full blown completely stripped drag car. Or I can completely redo the wiring system and run custom everything... what a headache. I was thinking piggyback would most likely be the best idea when the time comes.

 

Can anyone describe to me what turbo surge is and when it happens? I'm new to turbos so wok with me with the dumb questions. I was driving home last night and gave it gas in fifth gear to get back up to speen hit maybe 5 to 10 pounds. let off the gas and hear two different sounds. one was like a shuttering noise coming from wear the turbo or wastegate sit, and the other was the bov i know that sound. that other noise is that surge or? idk