I'd get the zzp neutral balance shafts over a delete kit but that's just me.

 

Yeah I got it checked out by my buddy who tweaked the tune for me. the car it tuned on 22psi, and right now i have it turned down to 19-20psi, we found out the fuel is running rich until the turbo starts kicking in so basically the rich area is killing the spool time, it might be something zzp had written in with the brfs tunes, which idk why they couldn't take the time and set me up a tune for stock fuel system after i paid this much money. the car runs and everything. I'll just wait on that i believe i got a bad lifter/lash adjuster it ticks like a bitch at start up and gets quieter, so I'm going to be doing a head here soon cuz that's getting so annoying haha

 

delete>neutral any day

 

Who sells a delete kit?

 

No need for a kit, just a bit of inginuity:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/driv...delete-272307/

Neutral still will prohibit you from spinning up as far as I would like to spin it up.

discussion about it:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...te-kit-225196/

 

agreed delete > neutral

 

Some of you guys in this thread really make me shake my head sometimes.

I assume you have a top notch machine shop that you trust for building your block or doing some of the work? I'm to the point now where just having someone else assemble my block is probably the best option for me, as I just don't have the time/motivation to really work on this thing like I need to. Unfortunately for me, I don't know any of the machine shops around here and therefore have no trust in them. Was just curious about whether or not you had one. I'd rather make the drive to a good one than risk it with a local.

I'm also curious about the crank you're having done. I had considered something like that for mine. What's that entire service going to run you?

 

A good machine shop is key. I have a really good one here. They build a lot of motors and such for NHRA super stock, bracket, etc. guys.

 

the crank is being done by a local in the car club, Im basically taking the opportunity to see how well he can handle it. He does a lot of SCCA engines though so I have faith in him. As soon as it is done, Ill snap some pics and get sum measurements and stuff of it and post them up here. As far as this build Ill be doing the assembly myself. I have most of the tools already.

When I got to have the dartons installed and do a full build itll be Watt Machine Shop in the Rowlett/rockwall area that guy is ridiculously amazing at this stuff, builds pretty much every motor in Sport Fwd and Outlaw Fwd, builds most all of Jotech and T1s motors and has like a 4month lead time

 

I had a question guys. Im turbo swapping my lsj almost have all the parts to install. My question is the tial 38mm waste gate what color spring do i use ? if u need more info i can answer ur questions.

 

this question was answered a bit ago I do believe, I do not run the tial but I think its the softest spring

 

You're thinking BOV... he's talking Wastegate. Running the softest Wastegate spring would give him 3psi.

You run whatever spring you want your base boost level to be. In mine, I run the 1 bar spring... which means that no matter what, I will always run 14.5psi at a minimum - I can't go any lower than that. Basically, you are setting up your floor... the lowest possible boost level for the car with the MBC turned all the way down - or not even running an MBC.

My suggestion is to run the 1 bar spring (Big Blue spring, iirc). There is honestly absolutely NO reason to run any less than 15psi on an LSJ... and it is the highest pressure you can set the system to without jumping to a dual spring setup (more expensive).

 

^this guy.....still hasn't delivered my ******* dead spider.....


anyways, yeah, no need to run anything less than the blue spring (1 bar). I had been running off of that spring before I got me a MBC. I was pleased with just that spring, and now I'm down right happy with where I'm at....except my tuner wants to push more

 

lol, I didnt know, I run a turbosmart with 9psi spring and an EBC set to run 25psi, never felt a need to run lower lol

 

Just installed a tial bov today and at iddle the car wants to shut down i took the hose from the bov off and the car returns to normal maybe tune ?? Also i welded the
Bov 8 fingers next to the throttle body ????

 

The BOV should be on the hotside, before the intercooler. It sounds like it's hanging open, and since it's most likely post maf that'll cause problems.

 

Yea u want it on the hotside close to the turbo

 

i have mine on the cold side, just before the MAF.

 

Being before the MAF is the most important part.

 

Ya I'm going to run a PTE 5431 turbo. I'm being tuned by ccss3. I'm looking for anywhere around 350-400 wheel horsepower cc said he should be able to attain those number on anywhere from 18-20psi so thats why i was asking which spring to run. thanks for the replays everyone

 

well, the spark plug in cylinder 1 shot up like a firework a week ago. My buddy checked it out with a camera and saw metal inside. At this point I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the piston, rings, and sleeve. Or if it's an excuse to start saving for what I was ultimately going to do.....zzp block.

 

Quick question. just went up too zzp yesterday and got the turbo kit. everything fitting up great. well i put the alternator on and notice the plug is differnt. So i trimed up the plug from the car to fit in the alt and then realise the pins are differnt size?! what to do hmm?

 

Shouldn't be different

 

The plug is different between 2.2's/2.4's and 2.0's. ZZP supplies Solstice/Sky Alts, iirc - or at least they used to. Their plug matches the LSJ/LNF, evidently.

 

Anyone happen to know the HPT values for the throttle body that ZPP supplies with their kit, I've done some searching and I believe it's supposed to be:

Scalar: 2668
Max: 100
Min: 0

Thanks in advance..