advise

iTrader: (3)

Looks like i have a defective exhaust cam

Just put in the stocker no leak

wRcKLes

iTrader: (1)

My tvs just showed up at my door step yesterday! Anyone got a 2.8 pully for it they want to get rid of?

Omnigear

iTrader: (4)

depends on how hard you are on boost.

5gal can last me 3days to a week.

armcclure

iTrader: (2)

??? How?
FYI stock cams exhaust has 363 in the middle.
Zzp cams exh is the one with the hex.

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

Good stuff! Fred tuning it?

Melon

iTrader: (11)

I really don't get into boost often. I live across street from where I work so I walk mostly to work. Then school is only like 5 miles away tops. Never really get the chance. I try and enjoy when traffic allows tho or when I am goin to my buddy's and get to hope on freeway

advise

iTrader: (3)

Flat lobe has some lift in it causing a leaky valve on my #4

armcclure

iTrader: (2)

That's just unheard of. Hopefully they'll take care of it no problem.

advise

iTrader: (3)

Found it odd myself....
Changed the exhaust to the stock cams, no issues

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

did you check out the roller and a excessively warn guide will cause that also

advise

iTrader: (3)

All the rollers look fine, guides only have 7k no wear on the supertech valves

advise

iTrader: (3)

Base circles are .020 larger then the stock cams.... anyone have a set of comps to measure up

wRcKLes

iTrader: (1)

He will be as soon as I get my hands on a 2.8 pully for this. Where did you get yours from?

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

Found it on here. Damn near brand new. Fred tuned it.

wRcKLes

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff, I may just buy it new

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

So I got about 30K miles on my tvs spinning the 3.14" pulley and the needle bearings have started to make a lot of noise; YAY.

I know ZZP does the rebuild for around 200$, but has anyone used Stiegemeier for rebuilding work?
They are local for me and it would save on shipping costs and possible turnaround time.

I'm trying to track down everything I need in a rush and do some figuring; But if I'm not able to port and polish the head(just springs and studs), should I just stick with the 3.14" pulley until I can get the head taken car of or will I be safe throwing the 2.7 or 2.6 pulley I have?

100% METH

iTrader: (3)

Hello my cobalt is slower than yours :p

Call them and find out

Zzp is quick and easy

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

lol, oh herro;
I will be tomorrow.
**** happens, just gotta deal with it then move the problem down to the lower end

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Steig is good I have used them. Dont blame the TVS until you check the timing chain guides. I made that mistake.Was not the needle bearings when I thought it was. lol

100% METH

iTrader: (3)

This seems to be plaguing a few people lately.

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

I wish it was the guides actually; cause I can get the timing kit thru work and put it on my account thru work. but when I used my stethoscope at the shop on saturday, all the noise if from the blower.
And since all my tools are at the shop, I cant get started on it till monday...Only tools I have at the house are standard sockets and wrenches for working on the nova and chevelle.

And since my current boss is a gigantic ***** about me working on my car(even off the clock), I cant pull the motor at the shop(lift, all my tools located right next to the lift, ect.) But he can work on his/buddies **** whenever he wants...
So I will be doing all of it at the house with jackstands and my less than adequate compressor



Hopefully Stiegemeier will be able to work on it; I just realized that I will be in st. charles tuesday for my last automotive diagnostic class of the year...almost perfect timing for me to deal with all this.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

If I am right, then I reserve the right to be a bigger ***** than your boss about it... thats because I did all the same diagnostics you did. But thats not enough.

So.... when you take the TVS apart do the front nose case first, inspect, and if the needles look fine and the grease on the rotor shafts is nice and blue, put it back together and move to the front of the motor lol.

As far as timing chain guides etc, its about that time in the life of these motors, and their age, and the way folks rev the crap out of them, that the front end of the motors need care and attention.

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

Oh, I forgot to post a little bit of info on here; the noise is the loudest on the back of the blower(TB side) on the rotor closest to the head.

The engine has 74505 it
other than the tvs and little crap, it is all stock
Never have gone over 7K,
Just for ***** and giggles, when I get to work, Ill pull the belt off and fire it up for a couple seconds; of course, pulleyboys tool is at work...
Every now and then when its below 40degrees-ish out, when the car has been sitting I do get the belt chirp like sound from the timing set(took me a while to find that little bastard of a noise)

If I do decide to pull apart the blower myself, do I need to replace any gaskets or orings when cracking it open?
Ive never gotten into a blower before, doesn't scare me but knowledge is good before I jump into it



And if your right about the timing set, I will immediately order a set of the f23 rotated mounts that I have been neglecting to order for a couple months

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

lol@ rotated mounts. NP.
the front nose has no gasket iirc. O rings? I like to use hylomar on it. I never did get torque specs on the bolts, ZZP say tight.
getting the needle cases out is very difficult.

armcclure

iTrader: (2)

Are they open back like the m62?