Option B install
#1
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Option B install
Just wondering where people are splicing this in? If I were to buy a tank such as the vulcan turbo one (since no pluming comes with it) what would I all need?
#2
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If you buy the vulcan tank, rather than the GM tank, you delete the stock plastic resovoir in front of the s/c. Here's what I did with mine...
The line on the right side of the coolant T, added an extender piece to it and ran the additional hose to the vulcan tank (routed under the headlight). The line on the left side goes to the endplate, delete that line and run a new one from the endplate to the other port on the vulcan tank (I routed it in the small area near the belt). The bleeder line runs from the stock h/e bleed to the vulcan tank top port.
You will need about 8ft of heater hose or more just in case, hose clamps, a 3/4 to 3/4 hose connect piece, a fill cap for the tank, and a nipple for the bleeder line on the tank and on the stock h/e. You will also need some zip ties to hold the new lines in place.
The line on the right side of the coolant T, added an extender piece to it and ran the additional hose to the vulcan tank (routed under the headlight). The line on the left side goes to the endplate, delete that line and run a new one from the endplate to the other port on the vulcan tank (I routed it in the small area near the belt). The bleeder line runs from the stock h/e bleed to the vulcan tank top port.
You will need about 8ft of heater hose or more just in case, hose clamps, a 3/4 to 3/4 hose connect piece, a fill cap for the tank, and a nipple for the bleeder line on the tank and on the stock h/e. You will also need some zip ties to hold the new lines in place.
#3
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If you buy the vulcan tank, rather than the GM tank, you delete the stock plastic resovoir in front of the s/c. Here's what I did with mine...
The line on the right side of the coolant T, added an extender piece to it and ran the additional hose to the vulcan tank (routed under the headlight). The line on the left side goes to the endplate, delete that line and run a new one from the endplate to the other port on the vulcan tank (I routed it in the small area near the belt). The bleeder line runs from the stock h/e bleed to the vulcan tank top port.
You will need about 8ft of heater hose or more just in case, hose clamps, a 3/4 to 3/4 hose connect piece, a fill cap for the tank, and a nipple for the bleeder line on the tank and on the stock h/e. You will also need some zip ties to hold the new lines in place.
The line on the right side of the coolant T, added an extender piece to it and ran the additional hose to the vulcan tank (routed under the headlight). The line on the left side goes to the endplate, delete that line and run a new one from the endplate to the other port on the vulcan tank (I routed it in the small area near the belt). The bleeder line runs from the stock h/e bleed to the vulcan tank top port.
You will need about 8ft of heater hose or more just in case, hose clamps, a 3/4 to 3/4 hose connect piece, a fill cap for the tank, and a nipple for the bleeder line on the tank and on the stock h/e. You will also need some zip ties to hold the new lines in place.
#6
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How are you putting the nipple on to the tank and the stock heat exchanger? Also if you have a dual pass how does the set-up change? Essentially what you are saying is it might be worth it to go with the GM tank? and how would that install be different ?
#7
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the GM option B tank is a Saturn coolant reservoir. OTTP have them in stock they are durable, inexpensive and accept the mounting brackets made for it. The bleed line goes from the reservoir to the top of the stock HE , 1/8 npt pipe fitting, 90 degree for Redline, Straight for Cobal with a. 5/16 nipple......040 restrictor. Its easier and cheaper just to call Josh or Sean they have all the stuff you need...BTW flow through tanks do not function as an Option B bleed reservoir as detailed in the GM build book...
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