pacesetter header issue
#1
pacesetter header issue
i ran into 4 issues, well 1 issue in 4 places, i dont want to accuse aaron of anything, or talk **** or nothing, just posting what i found on MY specific header, i know pacesetter doesnt have a machine set to make every header the same bc these are MIG welded and look like they were done by hand, my issue is not with the welds, or the fitment, or the look, or the quality, its about the actual...how do i call it...the design, no no, how MINE specifically was made, and i know its not form me being a 2.2 using the LSJ version, bc this issue is well ill show the pics than explain...pics in a sec
that should explain it, im not a noob at exhaust work, i have done cobalt header/dp swaps countless times so i know this is not bc of something i did...also has anyone else had this issue? this exact thing occurs on 4 studs, each one above each correcsponding cuylinder, so u can see how huge a exhaust leak this was :p
that should explain it, im not a noob at exhaust work, i have done cobalt header/dp swaps countless times so i know this is not bc of something i did...also has anyone else had this issue? this exact thing occurs on 4 studs, each one above each correcsponding cuylinder, so u can see how huge a exhaust leak this was :p
#4
thats actually a good idea, **** why didnt i think of it lol, but it should be that way anyway, i have not had this issue with any of the previous headers i've installed, the OBX, the vibrant, the clear image, none of them were like this, i still think its a flaw'd design to have to pull it out like that and thread them in than push it in, too much work lol, what i ended up having to do was heat it up, and take a hammer to each primary to make the top smooth...took extra work, and made added another hour of labor i was so pissed, had it all on, than had to take everything back off x_x
#6
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He shouldnt.. When installing my turbo, i ran into the same issue...
It was hard to tighten, so the way i did it i had this one last bolt. It was funny too, it was the last one i did... and the nut wouldnt fit.. lol...
i had to back the turbo away and it fit just fine .
It was hard to tighten, so the way i did it i had this one last bolt. It was funny too, it was the last one i did... and the nut wouldnt fit.. lol...
i had to back the turbo away and it fit just fine .
#9
hahahah i couldnt afford it, or else i would of bough it :p had to keep cost down, and i had to take a hammer to the top of each primary and make them flat so the nut would fit in there right, so now i have to re paint my ******* header while on the car, to touch up those spots i hit, or else it could rust bc its the only exposed steel... x_x my paint was so perfect too
Last edited by Jn2; 04-07-2009 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
Senior Member
ditto mine came with 8 or 9 milil 8point hex bolts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/P1010102.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/P1010102.jpg
Last edited by phatnackySS; 04-07-2009 at 05:16 PM.
#14
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ditto mine came with 8 or 9 milil 8point hex nuts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/P1010102.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/P1010102.jpg
#15
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All you have to do is pull the header away enough to get the nut on there, then you can push it back to do the tightening.
#18
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Why not? you just pull it back so the nut fits, screw it on a little... and do the same for the rest of the bolts.. then, push the header back to the head.. then it will be just like installing any other nuts.
#19
i double checked the baggie, nothing is left in there but the warranty paper, which have gone to **** bc i had to mod their header, the baggie only had
decal(whcih is on my hood)
the bolts for the header to DP
washers and nut for them
warranty card and instructions
i guess they forgot them or something, i checked the box, nothing was in the box, this blows, pulling the header back wouldnt of helped, like posted above iw ould of had to put a socket around it anyway;
SOLUTION:
i took a hammer to a hot header and made the top pretty much hammer mod'd the primaries to allow the nut to go on, now the paint on header is chipped and steel is exposed but it was the only way, ima go back and just repaint the exposed spots once i get time, the normal hex nuts didnt work either, i bought them from autozone thinking it would work, that was 5 bucks wasted :p so yeah i got back, used a flat tool, and hitt he other end of it to make the top of the primari flat and let the nut slide in x_x
decal(whcih is on my hood)
the bolts for the header to DP
washers and nut for them
warranty card and instructions
i guess they forgot them or something, i checked the box, nothing was in the box, this blows, pulling the header back wouldnt of helped, like posted above iw ould of had to put a socket around it anyway;
SOLUTION:
i took a hammer to a hot header and made the top pretty much hammer mod'd the primaries to allow the nut to go on, now the paint on header is chipped and steel is exposed but it was the only way, ima go back and just repaint the exposed spots once i get time, the normal hex nuts didnt work either, i bought them from autozone thinking it would work, that was 5 bucks wasted :p so yeah i got back, used a flat tool, and hitt he other end of it to make the top of the primari flat and let the nut slide in x_x
#21
bc than how are you going to wrap a socket arou nd the nut? the primary will be in the way, and taking the socket diagnolly will ony strip threading on something...either needed those bolts everyone is mentioning, i should of gone with china bays header, same exact design, in stainless steel, i know fits perfect bc i used to have it a 1.5yrs ago, and its still kicking in my buddys car, zero issues, this is what i get for buying american
#22
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the socket will fit.. trust me.
i dont think you guys are understanding it.
in the pic, the nuts are tapered so there will be room.
i dont think you guys are understanding it.
in the pic, the nuts are tapered so there will be room.
Last edited by ShortStack; 04-07-2009 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost