G11

iTrader: (11)

so i still have my warantee on my car but im wondering if i pieced a gm stage 2 kit together and then just got a different tune....do you think that i would have a good argument if anything went wrong? or even if i did gm 42's with a 2.9? trying to find ways around spending over a grand for gm stage 2 kit plus install

roboticfister

I think it would probably depend on whether or not your dealership looks for a Gm tune versus an aftermarket tune on the pcm... some do and some don't.

blackngold20

If they're going by the rules for warranty, they will look at the tune to see what data the computer is putting out. I know thats what the regional GM rep said we had to do at my dealership. Then we checked whatever part was the problem to make sure it was a GM part and not an aftermarket part

Jazer

If you are concerned about you warranty, it would probably be smartest to stick with, atleast, the GM Stg2 pulley & injectors. If they look for the tune, and it's not a GM flash, I would bet on it not being covered.. as you can blow a motor with a bad tune pretty quickly.. soo I wouldnt push your luck if you are that worried about it.

G11

iTrader: (11)

alright well can you get codes seperate if i piece it together or do i just have to buy the whole kit and have them install

blackngold20

If its installed and tuned correctly you wont have to worry about codes. I wouldnt just piece it together because when you change injectors you need a new tune and when you get a smaller pulley you need a new tune especially with stock injectors. Either direction you need a good tune to make it run right.

JHans5774

iTrader: (3)

No I did this and each GM tune has a code number to it and they will know I got my warranty voided because of it.

G11

iTrader: (11)

well i guess i will just have to stick with spend the grand plus then ha!

terry11

iTrader: (6)

I've been 2.6 with 60's and custom tune since 07 and my car has been in countless times for warranty work...never said anything about it to me. Even got a brand new tranny under warranty a few months ago. Was nls into 3rd and shredded every tooth off of her racing a turbo probe :P That doesn't work too well with a stage 4 clutch. Found out the hard way it takes a toll on the drivetrain. I guess it just depends on the dealer.

blackngold20

Yeah it does, my dealership would've voided the warranty as soon as they seen that much aftermarket. Some let it slide just to keep buisness. They just cant get caught by the GM regional rep, cause they can make them(the dealership) foot the bill

G11

iTrader: (11)

alright well i have another question, lately it has been hard for me to shift into reverse, 1st, and 2nd. You think my clutch is going out? my syncros? lmk

johnladow07

iTrader: (1)

You can just have someone with hptuners flash gm stage 2 tune on the car for you...

roboticfister

It's possible that it's syncros, but I doubt they'd all fail at once. It's probably a TOB, slave, or master cylinder problem. Could also be air in the system. Those are the hardest gears to engage and would be most susceptible to lack of force on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch. If it turns out to be the master cylinder, you're going to want to go ahead and replace the slave as well. My brain is farting right now but there is a company that sells an adjustable master cylinder that helps with new clutch installs as well.

G11

iTrader: (11)

so should i just get it looked at or should i pull the pan out and see if there is any shavings or any abnormal wear?

"You can just have someone with hptuners flash gm stage 2 tune on the car for you... "
well i don't know where too many tuners are here in utah ha but i haven't really looked either

roboticfister

There's no pan to pull to check for shavings... best you can do is do a transmission fluid change and look at how bad the fluid is. I would bet 500 bucks that it's not a synchro problem though. They probably didn't replace the TOB with the new clutch as is highly recommended. TOB's are decently cheap if that's what it is, and you can upgrade to an LNF throw out, which is a better design and bolts right up. Pulling the transmission isn't as hard as it would first appear. Remove brake system, swaybar link bolts, steering linkage bolts, hub nut, then pull axles. Remove the starter and water pump bracket, remove the two bottom trans mounts, remove the 4 bolts holding the engine cradle, drop it and set it aside. take out the 6 or so trans bolts you can reach on the bottom. Remove your overflow tank and unbolt your fuse/relay box and zip tie it up out of the way, remove the 3 top trans mount bolts and the two remaining transmission mating bolts. Now set a floorjack under it with a 2x6 plank and work it till it separates from engine. lower a little as you hold it with the jack, then remove the two electrical connectors and the hydraulic quick disconnect. drop jack to the floor and push it out.

Of course go buy a haynes manual. But that's what it'll take if you don't want to end up paying a fortune.

Also, if it DOES end up being synchros, good luck finding replacement parts. I waited 3 months for a 5th gear synchro, main gear, and spring that were all on backorder until I just gave up and bought a salvage tranny... which is running like a champ.

G11

iTrader: (11)

alright sweet thanks but this clutch was in it when i bought the car so technically it would be under warrantee right? lol i could just take it the shop and get this done? i think all i would have to pay is 100 bucks lol i will talk to my mechanic and go from there thanks for the info man!

G11

iTrader: (11)

.....so today i couldn't even get my car into reverse!!!! and on top of that it has now traveled up from being hard in 1st and 2nd, to 3rd and 4th as well.....

and wat is the TOB? by chance?

Winkdogydog101

depends on how long is your warrenty for? cause if its short dont waste your money other then that just do stage 2 ottp and buy a pcm for like 120 and then just through your stock stuff on if something goes bad which if you have a good tune it never will

roboticfister

The throw out bearing is the mechanism that pushes against the pressure plate to take force off the clutch so your engine can spin freely separate of the transmission. When you release the clutch, the throwout bearing disengages and the pressure plate can then hold the clutch disc firmly to the flywheel to make the engine and trans rotate as one. When and if you loose hydraulic pressure on the pressure plate, the engine and trans can't separate completely and transition into gears becomes difficult.

Check your brake fluid, make sure it's leveled up. That's about the best you can do if you don't feel like tackling the troubleshooting steps, and if it's okay, then you just need to take it in and see if they'll fix it. I'm not sure if they'll cover it with an aftermarket clutch though.

06G85

iTrader: (4)

A grand?? No way!

$600 for the kit (new) and around $200 for the install and tune. $800 Total. But you still keep your warranty.

If you can piece together a kit, most likely you'll spend less than $400 if you piece it together. Then, you still spend the $200 to have a dealer install (or someone else that is GM certified and can put it "on the books") You gotta have the Stg2 kit on the books in order for your car to still have a warranty.

You'll still have a warranty, just not on the parts of the Stg 2 kit cause you didn't buy them through GM. Am I correct??

You can run a 2.9 and 60's on the stock Stg 2 tune for a little more juice, but you will need more cooling mods. You won't get the full potential of the 2.9 and 60's unless you get retuned. But you'll feel a difference.

G11

iTrader: (11)

k well today i took it into the dealership and they told me that it was the clutch but they didn't replace the fluid or charge me for anything? i was wondering how they would know if the clutch is bad if they didn't actually look at the clutch itself? they told me $1523.39 for a stock clutch with labor... they said they would install a new clutch, pressure plate, and TOB. I asked how much it would be if i bought an aftermarket clutch and they installed it and they said $740. I just then thought well what if i just bought that clutchmasters stage three clutch from robotic and installed it myself. How much would you sell it to me for and include shipping if possible?

Also, my dad said that if im still able to turn my wheels then why would it be the clutch or the plate. He thinks that it could be something along the lines of the hydraulic process, slave, or master. so i'm not sure what im going to do yet but it is insanely hard to shift into any gear now and sometimes if i barely move the shifter it grinds the gears (((( no bueno!!!

roboticfister

Dude, here's what you need to do first... CHECK THE BRAKE FLUID... if that's good, get a brake and clutch master cylinder pressure test kit and test the hydraulic pressure at the output of the clutch master cylinder. I can't remember off hand what it's supposed to be but it'll be in the haynes book available at any autozone. If it's good there, then it's time to remove the trans. First check the pressure at the quick disconnect and see if it's good there also. If it is, then it's probably time to change the throw out bearing / slave cylinder. I'm pretty sure www.crateenginedepot.com carries the LNF throwout bearing (from the cobalt SS/TC... it bolts up the same and is a better unit than the one in our SC's)... it should be around 80 bucks. There really is no need to replace the clutch IMO.

If you're going to do this yourself, I have some tricks for getting fluid in the new TOB... air is a real bitch to get bled out sometimes. Just PM me.

G11

iTrader: (11)

i will for sure! i checked the fluid and it wasn't low so next like you said i will test pressure...do you think putting new fluid in general would help? i mean its worth a try? lol if you haven't noticed i haven't had much experience with clutches/ transmissions!!

roboticfister

Fluid won't really help you much, neither brake or trans fluid really go bad. Just check the pressure. If all else fails you'll just be out an 80 dollar TOB. Also, when you're testing the pressure, MAKE SURE you have your dad or someone else there with you to keep an eye on the brake fluid. You don't want it to get low and introduce air into the system, because then you'll have a second pain in the ass on your hands. If you don't get good pressure out of the master, try bleeding it through a little just to make sure your problem isn't rogue air in the system from the previous clutch install. Do the same when you get to the quick disconnect fitting on top of the trans. Air will cause a loss in hydraulic pressure just as much as a faulty part.

G11

iTrader: (11)

i appreciate the help roboticfister!

so i was just thinking going back to my original delema. what if i bought the stage 1, got the flash and then just put a new pulley and belt on? do you think that would be a lot harder to notice? just thinkin of different possibilities that are money efficient...if you wanna call it that