Ok.. i installed the system... no flaming please because i did search.... when i insta;;ed the system the only thing i was curious about was that i was reading directions from someone else on the forum and mentioned to cut the pink (12v switched) and yellow(i think) wire.. So my question is do we cut these wires? I wired to a different 12v switched.. For the MAF wire do we tap the MAFT wire into the MAF Signal wire or do we cut it all together and run the MAFT right into the MAF Signal wire? and also what is everyone's settings.. I have had my car on 3 and 4 and so far it runs ok... but i heard some people saying having all the DIP switches off and Start at 2.9 v to Full on at 6.0v... When I had that setting and hammered the gas pedal the car would bog.. so I guess I'am asking what settings is everyone using and why and also do we tap into the MAF Signal wire or actually vut it and wire the MAFT into the MAF Signal? Thanks

 

OK, one question at a time.

I don't know the Cobalt wiring enough to say which wire to cut and where - I am sure someone on here can help though.

The wiring goes - Factory MAF output wire with the Hz signal - into our MAFT green wire - the yellow wire from the MAFT connects to the yellow wire on our VC MAF controller.

On your settings, I would bump up that top setting from 4 to 6. You have a super steep delivery curve - it jumps right up to maximum injection amount and could explain some of the bogging.

No dip switches equals the most aggressive delivery curve - the quickest rise in amount with an increase in airflow. Switch #1 is the least aggressive, #2 slightly more aggressive, #3 more aggressive, and #4 4more aggressive, and no switches, again, is the most aggresive.

You do not cut your factory MAF wire - as then the ECU would have no idea how much air is going into the engine! You just jumper it, so that we can read the Hz signal without disrupting what the ECU needs to know.

 

beat me to it

 

oh yeah.. I run with all switches off and just under @4 start to 6 full on... no bog

 

ok.. awesome.. ill have to try those and see which works best... i've been running dip switch 3 and 4 at 2.9 and 4.8 and so far it's been fine and my TB is ice cold and the sc is warm.. i want to try the aggresive setting but so far my car has bogged like it poured the winshield washer fluid in there..i tried the aggressive setting like i said and the bottle was almost empty after i hammered it... . so your saying is if i set the full to 6 instead of 4.8 it stretchs out the curve farther so it prevents it dumping into the engine like it has for me? am i getting that correctly.. and mine is wired properly... i t tapped into the maf signal... the one install i was following the person had a lt1 maf and it said "cut" the maf and the 12v switch(pink wire)...

 

yeah with the 2nd setting at six it doesn't go full on til it hits that (which would be a higher rpm) also try using something with more methanol in it (boost juice) or do what I did.. go to a speed shop/. pick up a 5 gal container of racing meth... and get some distilled water.. and make different mixes til you find what works best.
try running it to come on a little under 4 and full at 6 with all the switches off and see how it runs

 

thanks guys... i also was reading that someone tried using HEET? and added it to the winshield washer fluid to add more methanol? i tried racing my friend with a Stage 2 SRT-4 and turbotoys and i had no traction at all in 1st 2nd or 3rd and then the car bogged.. damnit and the front end of my car was at his trunk.. so close

 

damn.... I love stg II srts... they taste mmm mmm good.

 

To be honest, it sounds a LOT like you have the nozzle installed backwards. That will inject way too much fluid, and not atomize it at all, making for bogging.

The screen-end of the injector nozzle belogs up inside the nozzle holder. The tiny hole-end of the injector nozzle is where the fluid needs to spray out of.

 

you know what.... I"ve actually seen a few people do that already... amazing how much better they run when stuff is installed correctly... you know the saying.... R.T.F.M.

 

i do have it installed correctly... i had the 375ml nozzle first but went down to the smaller nozzle u ship with the kit and it was better.. now i don't know if it was me but when u have all the dip switches off are u suppose to go through the fluid super quick?

i'll double check though.. i have the updated 90 degree angle piece and have the smaller nozzle with the screen inside the threaded part of what i think was the nozzle holder of that 90 degree angled piece.. works fine on setting 4 at 2.9v and 6v

 

Also i was reading on the snow performance website saying that the iridium plugs are recommended with the water/meth injection setup.. does this recomendation stay the same with our cars with high boost?

 

yeah considering the setup is meant for high boost applications.... that 375 is def too big for where your car is right now... but hold onto it you might need it later on

 

So what is teh difference between the normal maf kit and the gm maf kit and can u order a part to upgrade it?

Thanks,

Dan

 

needs the maf translator for the gm maf signal (can adjust it for the injection ramp you want to use)

 

I threw a couple emails back and forth to INTENSE and they don't recommend the water/meth kit for some reason and said that they have never seen anyone gain any hp from it

 

pm rob (fast06ss) he has a lot of experience with it.

 

Ok I have another question. I was thinking about buying the 7qt container and mounting it in the trunk. I have my pump installed in the front of the car on the DS behind the fog light. Will I have to relocate the pump to the trunk? Or does the container have a spot to mount the pump?

 

The pump is gravity fed so you probably want to mount it near and below the reservoir. I put my reservior in the trunk and the pump under the car behind the right rear wheel.

<---check my garage for pics

 

I just used my windshield washer res... almost 2 gals... and stealthy

 

Yes, if yo utrunk mount the reservoir, the pump also needs to be in the rear. As low as or lower than the reservoir so it is gravity fed.

 

What color is the Hz signal wire?? Is the Pink wire enough power for the kit??

 

pink wire is only the 12v for the box... pump needs to be powered seperatly off the fuse box.

 

I found out last night that the pink was the signal wire. Thanks though. I think I might have a different set of directions. I have the MAFT and the controller connected to a 12v switchable fuse in the fuse box (together). The pump is connected to Green wire out of the controller (with an in-line fuse)...................AHHHH I see!! I got it. No need to respond I'm an idiot and understand now!!

Edit: "I'm an Idiot" remark

 

MAF-T.... throw that thing out mman... shi is worthless these days