Snow Performance Install Questions!!!!
02-20-2007 | 02:29 PM
#26
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Joined: 04-24-06
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From: Chester, VA
02-20-2007 | 03:09 PM
#27
oh the maf controller... I swore you said maf-t (intense box thingy)
that power for the maf-t , I used the 12v lead to the MAF sensor and main power from the fuse box...
it's actually a really simple install man..
look up fast06ss 's post on the install he has pics of the wires used for the leads..
my setup took like 30 min to wire up
that power for the maf-t , I used the 12v lead to the MAF sensor and main power from the fuse box...
it's actually a really simple install man..
look up fast06ss 's post on the install he has pics of the wires used for the leads..
my setup took like 30 min to wire up
Last edited by 06blackg85ss; 02-20-2007 at 03:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-21-2007 | 11:36 AM
#28
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Joined: 04-24-06
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From: Chester, VA
The links don't work...https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...highlight=meth
I have exactly what is in the picture I posted above. I have it hooked up the same too. For some reason it doesn't work. Time to troubleshoot
I have exactly what is in the picture I posted above. I have it hooked up the same too. For some reason it doesn't work. Time to troubleshoot
03-05-2007 | 12:58 PM
#33
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Joined: 06-08-06
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From: Tampa, Florida
06Blackg85....how hard was it to turn your windshiel washer tank into the tank for your meth, that is an idea I had when I get my meth kit. and ive yet to hear an honest answer meth before blower or after? i think its just personal pref.
03-05-2007 | 02:53 PM
#34
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Joined: 04-24-06
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From: Chester, VA
I put a fuse between the Controller and power (<<this one blew) and one between the controller and the pump. It was a 1 amp fuse (all I had at the time). I still haven't been able to get it running right. The green LED doesn't even turn on.
Pump works with direct power
Solonoid works with direct power
Pump & Solonoid works together with direct power
Pump & Solonoid & LED works together with direct power
This is as far as I can troubleshoot for now
I have a Multimeter that checks Hz...Do you have any more sugestions?
I'm about to call it quits
03-05-2007 | 03:38 PM
#35
as for fuses.. you need at least a 15 amp on the pump side, the maf box has a circuit breaker built in so you don't need to run a fuse to that, or at least I didn't, and never had a problem with it.
I put a fuse between the Controller and power (<<this one blew) and one between the controller and the pump. It was a 1 amp fuse (all I had at the time). I still haven't been able to get it running right. The green LED doesn't even turn on.
Pump works with direct power
Solonoid works with direct power
Pump & Solonoid works together with direct power
Pump & Solonoid & LED works together with direct power
This is as far as I can troubleshoot for now
I have a Multimeter that checks Hz...Do you have any more sugestions?
I'm about to call it quits
Pump works with direct power
Solonoid works with direct power
Pump & Solonoid works together with direct power
Pump & Solonoid & LED works together with direct power
This is as far as I can troubleshoot for now
I have a Multimeter that checks Hz...Do you have any more sugestions?
I'm about to call it quits
Last edited by 06blackg85ss; 03-05-2007 at 03:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-09-2007 | 12:00 PM
#36
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Joined: 07-06-06
Posts: 37
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
I put a fuse between the Controller and power (<<this one blew) and one between the controller and the pump. It was a 1 amp fuse (all I had at the time). I still haven't been able to get it running right. The green LED doesn't even turn on.
Pump works with direct power
Solonoid works with direct power
Pump & Solonoid works together with direct power
Pump & Solonoid & LED works together with direct power
This is as far as I can troubleshoot for now
I have a Multimeter that checks Hz...Do you have any more sugestions?
I'm about to call it quits
Pump works with direct power
Solonoid works with direct power
Pump & Solonoid works together with direct power
Pump & Solonoid & LED works together with direct power
This is as far as I can troubleshoot for now
I have a Multimeter that checks Hz...Do you have any more sugestions?
I'm about to call it quits
If you had a 1 amp fuse on the power supply to the controller, it would have blown the first time it would have tried to turn on, meaning the system won't get power and inject, so the green light won't turn on.
Try wiring it without the fuses and see what happens. If it doesn't work at that point, we can troubleshoot the next step.
04-05-2007 | 10:46 PM
#38
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Joined: 06-01-05
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From: Miami
OK, one question at a time.
I don't know the Cobalt wiring enough to say which wire to cut and where - I am sure someone on here can help though.
The wiring goes - Factory MAF output wire with the Hz signal - into our MAFT green wire - the yellow wire from the MAFT connects to the yellow wire on our VC MAF controller.
On your settings, I would bump up that top setting from 4 to 6. You have a super steep delivery curve - it jumps right up to maximum injection amount and could explain some of the bogging.
No dip switches equals the most aggressive delivery curve - the quickest rise in amount with an increase in airflow. Switch #1 is the least aggressive, #2 slightly more aggressive, #3 more aggressive, and #4 4more aggressive, and no switches, again, is the most aggresive.
You do not cut your factory MAF wire - as then the ECU would have no idea how much air is going into the engine! You just jumper it, so that we can read the Hz signal without disrupting what the ECU needs to know.
I don't know the Cobalt wiring enough to say which wire to cut and where - I am sure someone on here can help though.
The wiring goes - Factory MAF output wire with the Hz signal - into our MAFT green wire - the yellow wire from the MAFT connects to the yellow wire on our VC MAF controller.
On your settings, I would bump up that top setting from 4 to 6. You have a super steep delivery curve - it jumps right up to maximum injection amount and could explain some of the bogging.
No dip switches equals the most aggressive delivery curve - the quickest rise in amount with an increase in airflow. Switch #1 is the least aggressive, #2 slightly more aggressive, #3 more aggressive, and #4 4more aggressive, and no switches, again, is the most aggresive.
You do not cut your factory MAF wire - as then the ECU would have no idea how much air is going into the engine! You just jumper it, so that we can read the Hz signal without disrupting what the ECU needs to know.
Option A, MAF Wire coming from engine part ( Tap green MAFT wire here) then back to the MAF.
Option B, MAF wire coming from engine part (Cut here and leave this end to itself, nothing on it) and then use the one coming from the MAF and splice it to the Green MAFT wire.
which one of the two is the right one.
BUMP@! cmon guys im doing this tomorrow~!!!
Last edited by Ljavy17; 04-05-2007 at 10:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
04-08-2007 | 10:47 PM
#39
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Joined: 04-24-06
Posts: 1,948
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From: Chester, VA
I did it!!
YES !! I DID IT !!
Alright I completely uninstalled all the wires.....then I reconnected them. This is the 4th (atleast) time I've done this. the only difference is that I cut a zip-tie off the meth line and removed the 20A fuse to the pump.
Ljavy17 <<<^^^ Option A....all you do is tap the yellow wire
FYI
MAF SIGNAL WIRE IS THE YELLOW ONE!!
Alright I completely uninstalled all the wires.....then I reconnected them. This is the 4th (atleast) time I've done this. the only difference is that I cut a zip-tie off the meth line and removed the 20A fuse to the pump. Ljavy17 <<<^^^ Option A....all you do is tap the yellow wire
FYI
MAF SIGNAL WIRE IS THE YELLOW ONE!!
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