Three step performance program
#1
Three step performance program
So all of my parts are ordered, confirmed or actually in hand. This weekend the build starts. Obviously I left out a lot of parts, such as seals, covers etc.
Part 1. - Suspension and base engine/exhaust performance - ETA 1 week
GMPP Stage 2 w/ 2.8" pulley
Nokian 235/40ZR18XL <- Actual Z rated
18" x 8" Motegi Racing DV5
SSBC big brake kit
JBP Custom Stainless Steel Brake Lines F/R
JBP Sträffes Drehend Full Coil Over Assembly
JBP Vortex CAI Blue
JBP exhaust manifold
Intake manifold (someone find me one that I can actually buy!)
JBP Vortex 3.0" T304 SS CatBack w/ MagnaFlow
1 Range cooler, NGK, smaller gap
Then tune.
Part 2. Driveline - ETA 2 weeks
Clutch Masters FW-200SS-AL
Clutch Masters FX400
custom axle/driveshaft set - Denny or DS shop maybe?
upper Front Strut Bar
Front & Rear TorqueForward Dual Brace
JBP Polyurethane Passenger Engine Mount (need that second motor / third tranny mount!)
ZZP Billet Rear/Poly Front Transmission mounts
JBP Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
Part 3. Engine overhaul - ETA 2+ months (once a certain someone gets his all in pieces engine done ... )
GM Ecotec race engine block
Neutral balance shafts
JBP ECOTEC Precision Adjustable Timing Gears
JBP Stage 2 2.0L Supercharged TriFlow Cams
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3]
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
Add a TON of assembly cost and time, and then learning how to drive it without borking something.
And still street legal!
- Solo
Part 1. - Suspension and base engine/exhaust performance - ETA 1 week
GMPP Stage 2 w/ 2.8" pulley
Nokian 235/40ZR18XL <- Actual Z rated
18" x 8" Motegi Racing DV5
SSBC big brake kit
JBP Custom Stainless Steel Brake Lines F/R
JBP Sträffes Drehend Full Coil Over Assembly
JBP Vortex CAI Blue
JBP exhaust manifold
Intake manifold (someone find me one that I can actually buy!)
JBP Vortex 3.0" T304 SS CatBack w/ MagnaFlow
1 Range cooler, NGK, smaller gap
Then tune.
Part 2. Driveline - ETA 2 weeks
Clutch Masters FW-200SS-AL
Clutch Masters FX400
custom axle/driveshaft set - Denny or DS shop maybe?
upper Front Strut Bar
Front & Rear TorqueForward Dual Brace
JBP Polyurethane Passenger Engine Mount (need that second motor / third tranny mount!)
ZZP Billet Rear/Poly Front Transmission mounts
JBP Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
Part 3. Engine overhaul - ETA 2+ months (once a certain someone gets his all in pieces engine done ... )
GM Ecotec race engine block
Neutral balance shafts
JBP ECOTEC Precision Adjustable Timing Gears
JBP Stage 2 2.0L Supercharged TriFlow Cams
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3]
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
Add a TON of assembly cost and time, and then learning how to drive it without borking something.
And still street legal!
- Solo
#3
Good luck with the build. Why are you looking for an intake manifold? I am confused by this. Also, if you are serious about drag racing I would shy away from the big break kit. Otherwise, you will never be able to get 16s on for DRs.
#4
Originally Posted by patathSS
Good luck with the build. Why are you looking for an intake manifold? I am confused by this. Also, if you are serious about drag racing I would shy away from the big break kit. Otherwise, you will never be able to get 16s on for DRs.
As for the brakes, a car that can potentially go 160 or maybe even more and has that low a 0 to 60 and 0 to 100 needs a rethink of the safety systems on the vehicle.
- Solo
#8
Originally Posted by SoloSK71
Not going to be a drag racer. I may take a few runs to see times/speeds but I am going to look more for autocross and actual racing. As well, the first build is to make the car as safe as possible for when I bolt the new engine to it.
As for the brakes, a car that can potentially go 160 or maybe even more and has that low a 0 to 60 and 0 to 100 needs a rethink of the safety systems on the vehicle.
- Solo
As for the brakes, a car that can potentially go 160 or maybe even more and has that low a 0 to 60 and 0 to 100 needs a rethink of the safety systems on the vehicle.
- Solo
#9
Part 3. Engine overhaul - ETA 2+ months (once a certain someone gets his all in pieces engine done ... )
GM Ecotec race engine block
Neutral balance shafts
JBP ECOTEC Precision Adjustable Timing Gears
JBP Stage 2 2.0L Supercharged TriFlow Cams
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3]
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
GM Ecotec race engine block
Neutral balance shafts
JBP ECOTEC Precision Adjustable Timing Gears
JBP Stage 2 2.0L Supercharged TriFlow Cams
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3]
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
Also, are you sure you want to get an race block. That just seems like overkill to me. The race block was intended for people who are running an enormous amount of power. Like you said, you're not having a drag car, so no need for this. That's 2 grand of money that you don't need to spend. Your stock block can withstand plenty of heat.
LSJ Pistons (from GM) don't come 10.5:1 and they don't make Diamond Cut Pistons like your 2.0s 9.5:1 Pistons in that compression either.
If you want higher quality pistons & higher compression, look into Wiseco.
The JBP Cylinder Head Kit...seriously...that's WAY overpriced. Look into another option bro. 3 Grand for a full upgraded head is just rediculous in my opinion.
Intake manifold (someone find me one that I can actually buy!)
To be honest, it just looked like you went shopping on JBPs website and copy and pasted everything you saw on there without looking further into other places. When it comes to this stuff, it's good that you're having a plan but seriously you need to do more pricing research.
Also, I have to ask, what is your power goal? Cause you could be spending more money than you need to if you aren't reaching for a certain amount of power.
#10
Originally Posted by NJHK
Personally, I'd get Eagle H Beams
Also, are you sure you want to get an race block. That just seems like overkill to me. The race block was intended for people who are running an enormous amount of power. Like you said, you're not having a drag car, so no need for this. That's 2 grand of money that you don't need to spend. Your stock block can withstand plenty of heat.
LSJ Pistons (from GM) don't come 10.5:1 and they don't make Diamond Cut Pistons like your 2.0s 9.5:1 Pistons in that compression either.
If you want higher quality pistons & higher compression, look into Wiseco.
The JBP Cylinder Head Kit...seriously...that's WAY overpriced. Look into another option bro. 3 Grand for a full upgraded head is just rediculous in my opinion.
Why? You have a Supercharger that's connected to a Manifold...
To be honest, it just looked like you went shopping on JBPs website and copy and pasted everything you saw on there without looking further into other places. When it comes to this stuff, it's good that you're having a plan but seriously you need to do more pricing research.
Also, I have to ask, what is your power goal? Cause you could be spending more money than you need to if you aren't reaching for a certain amount of power.
Also, are you sure you want to get an race block. That just seems like overkill to me. The race block was intended for people who are running an enormous amount of power. Like you said, you're not having a drag car, so no need for this. That's 2 grand of money that you don't need to spend. Your stock block can withstand plenty of heat.
LSJ Pistons (from GM) don't come 10.5:1 and they don't make Diamond Cut Pistons like your 2.0s 9.5:1 Pistons in that compression either.
If you want higher quality pistons & higher compression, look into Wiseco.
The JBP Cylinder Head Kit...seriously...that's WAY overpriced. Look into another option bro. 3 Grand for a full upgraded head is just rediculous in my opinion.
Why? You have a Supercharger that's connected to a Manifold...
To be honest, it just looked like you went shopping on JBPs website and copy and pasted everything you saw on there without looking further into other places. When it comes to this stuff, it's good that you're having a plan but seriously you need to do more pricing research.
Also, I have to ask, what is your power goal? Cause you could be spending more money than you need to if you aren't reaching for a certain amount of power.
The pistons are from JBP. Had not heard of wiseco either but I will try to find them.
Intake manifold - no one I was able to get a reply from could (would?) tell me if it was or was not needed so I went with wanting one.
The head and engine are pricy and over-engineered for my application, yes. But I am as certain as possible that they will not fail.
If people actually answered with alternatives rather than reflex screaming of "use the search" then I would have researched them. But I never heard of either of the ones you mentioned when I used the search function.
I expect to be making between 400 and 440 hp after all is done, maybe a bit more.
- Solo
#11
How much $$ do u have to spend? or is there even a limit?? Cuz I know for a fact, the stock Eco black go's to 600hp with not a single problem. So if your only going for 400-450, no need to drop the 2K. but then again, its up to U, the race black would be bad ass! good luck man, and keep up updated!
#12
Originally Posted by SoloSK71
Eagle H Beams - never heard of them before now. I will look.
The pistons are from JBP. Had not heard of wiseco either but I will try to find them.
Intake manifold - no one I was able to get a reply from could (would?) tell me if it was or was not needed so I went with wanting one.
The head and engine are pricy and over-engineered for my application, yes. But I am as certain as possible that they will not fail.
If people actually answered with alternatives rather than reflex screaming of "use the search" then I would have researched them. But I never heard of either of the ones you mentioned when I used the search function.
I expect to be making between 400 and 440 hp after all is done, maybe a bit more.
- Solo
The pistons are from JBP. Had not heard of wiseco either but I will try to find them.
Intake manifold - no one I was able to get a reply from could (would?) tell me if it was or was not needed so I went with wanting one.
The head and engine are pricy and over-engineered for my application, yes. But I am as certain as possible that they will not fail.
If people actually answered with alternatives rather than reflex screaming of "use the search" then I would have researched them. But I never heard of either of the ones you mentioned when I used the search function.
I expect to be making between 400 and 440 hp after all is done, maybe a bit more.
- Solo
If you don't know you can't use another intake manifold while using a roots supercharger than you still need to do research and not order these parts as of yet.
Right now, I think you're stepping into something that's way over your head and you need some further help. Like I said, I'm not here to bash, I'm here to help and offer advice if you want to take it...if you don't, cool, it's your decision and your vehicle.
I'm not 100% sure now but the Eagle Rods should work for your 2.0
How do you plan on tuning this fully rebuilt motor?
In all honesty, this project seems rushed...either you make alot of money or you're about to blow away a ton of cash on a car. Granted, we all like to modify, but even I will admit that a car is a terrible thing to invest your money into. It can be gone in a second...theft, accident, bam! gone. This is stuff you have to think about. I know the consequences before I did alot of what I've done, just want to make sure you understand this as well. It's not going to be fast and simple motor work, you're going to deal with people working on your motor, lots of money being spent, things not going to schedule, you not having your car for a while and a ton of headaches (especially with the motor work).
To think you'll have all this done in a matter of a few months just seems to be very rushed and not thought through. If you do need help, just ask me and I'll be glad to help. You can even reach me privately (screen name NJHKJBO on AOL/AIM). Reply if you have more questions. Good luck.
#13
Originally Posted by NJHK
I will say this for this to be very honest but helpful at the same time:
If you don't know you can't use another intake manifold while using a roots supercharger than you still need to do research and not order these parts as of yet.
Right now, I think you're stepping into something that's way over your head and you need some further help. Like I said, I'm not here to bash, I'm here to help and offer advice if you want to take it...if you don't, cool, it's your decision and your vehicle.
I'm not 100% sure now but the Eagle Rods should work for your 2.0
How do you plan on tuning this fully rebuilt motor?
In all honesty, this project seems rushed...either you make alot of money or you're about to blow away a ton of cash on a car. Granted, we all like to modify, but even I will admit that a car is a terrible thing to invest your money into. It can be gone in a second...theft, accident, bam! gone. This is stuff you have to think about. I know the consequences before I did alot of what I've done, just want to make sure you understand this as well. It's not going to be fast and simple motor work, you're going to deal with people working on your motor, lots of money being spent, things not going to schedule, you not having your car for a while and a ton of headaches (especially with the motor work).
To think you'll have all this done in a matter of a few months just seems to be very rushed and not thought through. If you do need help, just ask me and I'll be glad to help. You can even reach me privately (screen name NJHKJBO on AOL/AIM). Reply if you have more questions. Good luck.
If you don't know you can't use another intake manifold while using a roots supercharger than you still need to do research and not order these parts as of yet.
Right now, I think you're stepping into something that's way over your head and you need some further help. Like I said, I'm not here to bash, I'm here to help and offer advice if you want to take it...if you don't, cool, it's your decision and your vehicle.
I'm not 100% sure now but the Eagle Rods should work for your 2.0
How do you plan on tuning this fully rebuilt motor?
In all honesty, this project seems rushed...either you make alot of money or you're about to blow away a ton of cash on a car. Granted, we all like to modify, but even I will admit that a car is a terrible thing to invest your money into. It can be gone in a second...theft, accident, bam! gone. This is stuff you have to think about. I know the consequences before I did alot of what I've done, just want to make sure you understand this as well. It's not going to be fast and simple motor work, you're going to deal with people working on your motor, lots of money being spent, things not going to schedule, you not having your car for a while and a ton of headaches (especially with the motor work).
To think you'll have all this done in a matter of a few months just seems to be very rushed and not thought through. If you do need help, just ask me and I'll be glad to help. You can even reach me privately (screen name NJHKJBO on AOL/AIM). Reply if you have more questions. Good luck.
agreed.. reading over it (not bashing) you do sound like you havent done much research and you dont have a ton of knowledge.. when you start droppping big money in to cars, that money is gone... you will always be upside in investment.. and you might think yea.. so what.. ill have this car forever.. well thats true in maybe .005% of the cases.. but once you build it that far that car will not be reliable.. you will run into headaches all the time and you will just continue to be dropping more money into it..
best thing i would say for you to do (unless you just have so much money and you have nothing to spend it on.. blowing money) then just do a mild build and dont mess with internals.
#15
Originally Posted by Acidangel_5.0
agreed.. reading over it (not bashing) you do sound like you havent done much research and you dont have a ton of knowledge.. when you start droppping big money in to cars, that money is gone... you will always be upside in investment.. and you might think yea.. so what.. ill have this car forever.. well thats true in maybe .005% of the cases.. but once you build it that far that car will not be reliable.. you will run into headaches all the time and you will just continue to be dropping more money into it..
best thing i would say for you to do (unless you just have so much money and you have nothing to spend it on.. blowing money) then just do a mild build and dont mess with internals.
best thing i would say for you to do (unless you just have so much money and you have nothing to spend it on.. blowing money) then just do a mild build and dont mess with internals.
#16
well, i don't know you, or what your situaton is, but i'm sure that you have done some type of research and know where you want to go with this car. My opinion is, if you want to spend that money, do it. I think it'll be an awsome car when your done. Like others have said, you will run into headaches, but keep your head up until it's done. I'm very excited to see how it turns out.
#17
Originally Posted by 05BlackCobaltSS
well, i don't know you, or what your situaton is, but i'm sure that you have done some type of research and know where you want to go with this car. My opinion is, if you want to spend that money, do it. I think it'll be an awsome car when your done. Like others have said, you will run into headaches, but keep your head up until it's done. I'm very excited to see how it turns out.
Let me clarify, I'm not telling anyone to do anything to their car that they don't want to. I'm offering suggestions and being realistic of the situation. I don't want him to be like others who have spent thousands and don't see anything from it.
#18
keep us updated if you go thru with everything man. if in fact you DO have the resources and knowledge, this would be one hell of a cobalt.
go easy on him guys, this looks to be an initial plan for feedback. i dont think he meant this as a 'solid' plan. correct me if im wrong, but this looks like some basic and initial research; not something that has been thought out for a while.
while the arguements that this is a lot of money to spend are valid, try not to be so negative. i dont know anyone else on the site that has dumped that much money into the car, so go for it!
one question i have tho.... why buy a GM Stage II..... go with an intense kit if you really want to push the hp limits. GM kits are nice, but they are also designed to keep your warranty (and obviously youre handing your warranty back to GM on a silver platter)
go easy on him guys, this looks to be an initial plan for feedback. i dont think he meant this as a 'solid' plan. correct me if im wrong, but this looks like some basic and initial research; not something that has been thought out for a while.
while the arguements that this is a lot of money to spend are valid, try not to be so negative. i dont know anyone else on the site that has dumped that much money into the car, so go for it!
one question i have tho.... why buy a GM Stage II..... go with an intense kit if you really want to push the hp limits. GM kits are nice, but they are also designed to keep your warranty (and obviously youre handing your warranty back to GM on a silver platter)
#20
Originally Posted by ReMz
keep us updated if you go thru with everything man. if in fact you DO have the resources and knowledge, this would be one hell of a cobalt.
go easy on him guys, this looks to be an initial plan for feedback. i dont think he meant this as a 'solid' plan. correct me if im wrong, but this looks like some basic and initial research; not something that has been thought out for a while.
while the arguements that this is a lot of money to spend are valid, try not to be so negative. i dont know anyone else on the site that has dumped that much money into the car, so go for it!
one question i have tho.... why buy a GM Stage II..... go with an intense kit if you really want to push the hp limits. GM kits are nice, but they are also designed to keep your warranty (and obviously youre handing your warranty back to GM on a silver platter)
go easy on him guys, this looks to be an initial plan for feedback. i dont think he meant this as a 'solid' plan. correct me if im wrong, but this looks like some basic and initial research; not something that has been thought out for a while.
while the arguements that this is a lot of money to spend are valid, try not to be so negative. i dont know anyone else on the site that has dumped that much money into the car, so go for it!
one question i have tho.... why buy a GM Stage II..... go with an intense kit if you really want to push the hp limits. GM kits are nice, but they are also designed to keep your warranty (and obviously youre handing your warranty back to GM on a silver platter)
im not saying no.. if he wants to .. then that would be badass and mad props.. but he just needs to be aware and told from people that been down that road more then on 1 occasion.. what people "see" from these high powered built vehicles is one thing.. what the owner sees and deals with is completely different.. ive dropped over 25K in my 88 mustang building,maintaining it and dealing with stupid **** every few months from electronics to parts blowing to stuff you couldnt believe would result from something else.. its a totally different world when you start doing heavy internal development and swapping.. the car will never be 100% reliable, im always looking for the next problem now to where you dont even really enjoy the car..
ive gotten to the point many a times on selling my stang but i wouldnt get **** for it.. people like aftermarket cars and built cars but nobody wants to pay fair value of it.. i mean ****.. id sell mine right now for 8,000 to the first person.. just because thats a damn good price on a 5.0 built.. runs pefect, no leaks, no nothing.. but i just dont enjoy it as much because of the years of ******* with it.. lol.. its like parents kick the kids out.. you love um but your glad they are gone
#21
well if you really plan on going this big, I'll just add my take on some of these items.
Part 1. - Suspension and base engine/exhaust performance - ETA 1 week
GMPP Stage 2 w/ 2.8" pulley - kinda wasted your money there, but it loos like that what you got right now so, to late.
JBP Sträffes Drehend Full Coil Over Assembly - I love mine drives like a dream.
JBP exhaust manifold - I'm guessing your talking about his shorty header. but if your not twinchargeing like Victory_Red_SS go with a Quality 4-2-1 Long tube header
Intake manifold (someone find me one that I can actually buy!) - I know that the grand am cobalts switched to a dual pass after cooler & different manifold I haven't been able to find any more info tho
JBP Vortex 3.0" T304 SS CatBack w/ MagnaFlow - if you really want the JBP get the Borla muffler, will sound way better and not as laud.
Then tune. - get HP Tuners this is the most important theing for your build.
Part 2. Driveline - ETA 2 weeks
- all good
Part 3. Engine overhaul - ETA 2+ months (once a certain someone gets his all in pieces engine done ... )
GM Ecotec race engine block - way over kill, and not necessary
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3] - nothing equivalent or even close to on the market yet. if you want to save some money you could switch to Bates equipment.
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1 - [ NJHK ] these are not GM pistons they are Diamond pistons, aftermarket replacement available in 10:1 and 10.5:1 ratios.
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods - Eagle rods were made for the L61 different stroke then that of the LSJ
good luck
Part 1. - Suspension and base engine/exhaust performance - ETA 1 week
GMPP Stage 2 w/ 2.8" pulley - kinda wasted your money there, but it loos like that what you got right now so, to late.
JBP Sträffes Drehend Full Coil Over Assembly - I love mine drives like a dream.
JBP exhaust manifold - I'm guessing your talking about his shorty header. but if your not twinchargeing like Victory_Red_SS go with a Quality 4-2-1 Long tube header
Intake manifold (someone find me one that I can actually buy!) - I know that the grand am cobalts switched to a dual pass after cooler & different manifold I haven't been able to find any more info tho
JBP Vortex 3.0" T304 SS CatBack w/ MagnaFlow - if you really want the JBP get the Borla muffler, will sound way better and not as laud.
Then tune. - get HP Tuners this is the most important theing for your build.
Part 2. Driveline - ETA 2 weeks
- all good
Part 3. Engine overhaul - ETA 2+ months (once a certain someone gets his all in pieces engine done ... )
GM Ecotec race engine block - way over kill, and not necessary
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3] - nothing equivalent or even close to on the market yet. if you want to save some money you could switch to Bates equipment.
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1 - [ NJHK ] these are not GM pistons they are Diamond pistons, aftermarket replacement available in 10:1 and 10.5:1 ratios.
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods - Eagle rods were made for the L61 different stroke then that of the LSJ
good luck
#22
Originally Posted by SoloSK71
So all of my parts are ordered, confirmed or actually in hand. This weekend the build starts. Obviously I left out a lot of parts, such as seals, covers etc.
Part 1. - Suspension and base engine/exhaust performance - ETA 1 week
GMPP Stage 2 w/ 2.8" pulley
Nokian 235/40ZR18XL <- Actual Z rated
18" x 8" Motegi Racing DV5
SSBC big brake kit
JBP Custom Stainless Steel Brake Lines F/R
JBP Sträffes Drehend Full Coil Over Assembly
JBP Vortex CAI Blue
JBP exhaust manifold
Intake manifold (someone find me one that I can actually buy!)
JBP Vortex 3.0" T304 SS CatBack w/ MagnaFlow
1 Range cooler, NGK, smaller gap
Then tune.
Part 2. Driveline - ETA 2 weeks
Clutch Masters FW-200SS-AL
Clutch Masters FX400
custom axle/driveshaft set - Denny or DS shop maybe?
upper Front Strut Bar
Front & Rear TorqueForward Dual Brace
JBP Polyurethane Passenger Engine Mount (need that second motor / third tranny mount!)
ZZP Billet Rear/Poly Front Transmission mounts
JBP Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
Part 3. Engine overhaul - ETA 2+ months (once a certain someone gets his all in pieces engine done ... )
GM Ecotec race engine block
Neutral balance shafts
JBP ECOTEC Precision Adjustable Timing Gears
JBP Stage 2 2.0L Supercharged TriFlow Cams
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3]
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
Add a TON of assembly cost and time, and then learning how to drive it without borking something.
And still street legal!
- Solo
Part 1. - Suspension and base engine/exhaust performance - ETA 1 week
GMPP Stage 2 w/ 2.8" pulley
Nokian 235/40ZR18XL <- Actual Z rated
18" x 8" Motegi Racing DV5
SSBC big brake kit
JBP Custom Stainless Steel Brake Lines F/R
JBP Sträffes Drehend Full Coil Over Assembly
JBP Vortex CAI Blue
JBP exhaust manifold
Intake manifold (someone find me one that I can actually buy!)
JBP Vortex 3.0" T304 SS CatBack w/ MagnaFlow
1 Range cooler, NGK, smaller gap
Then tune.
Part 2. Driveline - ETA 2 weeks
Clutch Masters FW-200SS-AL
Clutch Masters FX400
custom axle/driveshaft set - Denny or DS shop maybe?
upper Front Strut Bar
Front & Rear TorqueForward Dual Brace
JBP Polyurethane Passenger Engine Mount (need that second motor / third tranny mount!)
ZZP Billet Rear/Poly Front Transmission mounts
JBP Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
Part 3. Engine overhaul - ETA 2+ months (once a certain someone gets his all in pieces engine done ... )
GM Ecotec race engine block
Neutral balance shafts
JBP ECOTEC Precision Adjustable Timing Gears
JBP Stage 2 2.0L Supercharged TriFlow Cams
JBP ECOTEC Cylinder Head Kit [Stage 3]
Diamond LSJ Coated Piston/Pin/Ring Kit, 10.5:1
JBP 4340 Cross-Beam Connecting Rods
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
Add a TON of assembly cost and time, and then learning how to drive it without borking something.
And still street legal!
- Solo
the NOKIAN tires are well I cant say anything about their winter tires that is for dam sure. they were so bad I took them back and took a hit. and they are way over priced. Kal tire I am guessing. oh well, just my opinion.
#24
Quickly hitting some of the points, sorry if I miss something.
If you don't know you can't use another intake manifold while using a roots supercharger than you still need to do research and not order these parts as of yet. - NJHK
The only one I could find after 3 weeks of research is a GM Performance one that requires the LS1 (Vette I thinnk?) throttle body which means redoing the entire engine controller, so that is not an option. I would WANT one if someone mafe one which is the whole appeal for one you can actually buy.
And yes I make more money than I need right now, and making one of these cars unique is my goal. I do not want yet another souped up Mustang or Vette, or an import, or a classic. The fact that you can get 400 to 500 HP out of this engine w/o nitrous appeals a lot.
why buy a GM Stage II..... go with an intense kit if you really want to push the hp limits - ReMz
I want this to be street legal, and Intense kits are not. I do not know enough about how they test, but losing the car or being forced to modify it down to meet legal requirements sucks. GM Stage 2 is not the best but it is legal. And yes, before I paid them my cash for the car itself they said about the only warranty I would get from GM on this is paint/appearance and cabin interior. Thats why I have a second car, '01 Cavalier in case the car is down for a month to repair something.
GM Ecotec race engine block - way over kill, and not necessary - player_1
It probably is but I can't find a regular block for sale, and then having to get it made ready for the head.
I have had a few conversations by PM and on the phone with people and have tried to get the best engine I can, along with everything else so that I reduce the risk of any mechanical problems from all that power.
One thing about choosing a lot of JBP parts, there does not seem a lot of reason to go with other brand names if the JBP ones are just as good, and more importantly they are Canadian and I have not heard good stories about shipping parts from the States, in terms of time and cost (duty to import) to get the part.
Yes, I know I will never get my money out of this but I don't really have anything else to spend money on. Don't drink, smoke or do drugs. I own my house and have a good job. When I travel I do not drive. So a very very nice car, that is unique, is a good place to put some money.
- Solo
And for those who asked, probably in the area of 40K all told in mods/parts/labor. I think. Maybe more maybe less.
If you don't know you can't use another intake manifold while using a roots supercharger than you still need to do research and not order these parts as of yet. - NJHK
The only one I could find after 3 weeks of research is a GM Performance one that requires the LS1 (Vette I thinnk?) throttle body which means redoing the entire engine controller, so that is not an option. I would WANT one if someone mafe one which is the whole appeal for one you can actually buy.
And yes I make more money than I need right now, and making one of these cars unique is my goal. I do not want yet another souped up Mustang or Vette, or an import, or a classic. The fact that you can get 400 to 500 HP out of this engine w/o nitrous appeals a lot.
why buy a GM Stage II..... go with an intense kit if you really want to push the hp limits - ReMz
I want this to be street legal, and Intense kits are not. I do not know enough about how they test, but losing the car or being forced to modify it down to meet legal requirements sucks. GM Stage 2 is not the best but it is legal. And yes, before I paid them my cash for the car itself they said about the only warranty I would get from GM on this is paint/appearance and cabin interior. Thats why I have a second car, '01 Cavalier in case the car is down for a month to repair something.
GM Ecotec race engine block - way over kill, and not necessary - player_1
It probably is but I can't find a regular block for sale, and then having to get it made ready for the head.
I have had a few conversations by PM and on the phone with people and have tried to get the best engine I can, along with everything else so that I reduce the risk of any mechanical problems from all that power.
One thing about choosing a lot of JBP parts, there does not seem a lot of reason to go with other brand names if the JBP ones are just as good, and more importantly they are Canadian and I have not heard good stories about shipping parts from the States, in terms of time and cost (duty to import) to get the part.
Yes, I know I will never get my money out of this but I don't really have anything else to spend money on. Don't drink, smoke or do drugs. I own my house and have a good job. When I travel I do not drive. So a very very nice car, that is unique, is a good place to put some money.
- Solo
And for those who asked, probably in the area of 40K all told in mods/parts/labor. I think. Maybe more maybe less.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post