ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Can anyone provide proof that you don't need to pop the tensioner to release it? I've installed new design ones in two engines, and you definately have to hit the chain/guide end with something to get it to release to full tension from my experience. Unless you are installing it fully extended and compressing it down with the threads, which isn't right but thats what it sounds like people in here are doing.

craigk_c19

can you explain that? i plan on changing mine today and from what you just said i cant just go out brake lose the old one and thread in the new one and then tighten it there is more to it the just that?

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

All the ones i've done have been during an engine tear down, and once you get the head on, cam gears on and aligned, you install the tensioner, stick something down the opening between the chains through the head, whack the guide one time, it pops out, and you are good to go. This is the process defined in the build book, and i've used it with the newer tensioners without a problem. The differences in tensioner design had to do with oil flow through the tensioner, not the basic design of it (oil assisted spring), so I'm wondering if they really did change the install procedure. Usually, you twist the center piece down into a locked position so you can install it, then pop it to release it. It does require removing the valve cover if you are doing it on a complete engine, but thats it.

craigk_c19

is everyone else removing the valve cover too how come i cant just leave it out and then wouldnt the threads load it?

golden chicken

so, in order to compress the new style tensioner, do you have to disassemble it like the old style?

golden chicken

ok, i found the answer to my own question. here it is for anyone else who is wondering:

my new style tensioner arrived already compressed. however, yours may have been jarred loose during shipping. the way to tell if it's compressed already is if the plunger slides freely in and out approximately 3/4".

if it doesn't slide freely you'll have to disassemble it to compress it before installing. use something to compress the plunger into the tensioner body so it doesn't explode when you remove the snap ring. I used a big pair of adjustable pliers but a vise with a wide opening should work just fine too. you'll need the vise anyway to reassemble. remove the snap ring. the plunger should pull out of the tensioner body with the internal piston and spring assembly. put the tip of the plunger into a vise and use a big screwdriver to twist the bottom of the plunger back into the piston housing. you'll have to rotate it about a full turn. reassemble the piston/plunger into the tensioner body and reinstall the snap ring. the plunger should move freely as described above.

now, if you were to remove the old tensioner and install the new tensioner in its compressed state and just fire up the car and hope oil pressure releases the new tensioner before the chain jumps teeth...well i'm not going to risk it. i'm going to remove the valve cover and hit the tensioner guide (more like tap it) so it pops the tensioner before i restart my car. this means i'll probably want to devote an hour to this whole endeavor.

ShortStack

good explanation..

craigk_c19

so if it moves freely then its already compressed and everyone else that have replaced their did yall remove the valve cover if not did anything go wrong?

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Where is that from?

jonnymerk

For those on this thread with the problem try and look at my engine noise thread also. Timing chain was an issue and it also caused scaring of the cams and some issues with some of the roller rockers ect... So if you think your prob is timing chain related it is a good idea to pull the cover and take a look.

golden chicken

i got it at CED

craigk_c19

im just going to simply replace mine with out taking the valve cover off and poping it my new one moves freely so i think it is compressed and the oil pressure will do the rest

Whiney 2.0

go ahead and replace it. the oil pressure at startup wil release and apply the tensioner. don't worry about it.

craigk_c19

i cant get it to brake lose any suggestions?

golden chicken

what do you mean break loose? the old one? you'll probably need a really big breaker bar.

edit: and maybe drive the car a couple miles to warm up the block a bit

craigk_c19

im at college so any idea what i can use for a braker bar? and if i used a big one i would have to do it from under the car and i didnt bring my jack or car stands to college with me so any ideas?

golden chicken

use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. hope you don't break the ratchet

BCM

I think mine is doing it too, but
i can only hear it ticking after I start it when it's cold.

Vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYDsci-EBLg

craigk_c19

i wont fit under my car to be able to use the ratchet any other ideas firewall is in the way so unless i use a pipe that only is a foot long wich i dont think will help any i screwed

golden chicken

32 mm combination wrench...hook another combination wrench onto it to increase leverage. don't punch yourself in the face lol.

i forget how much more space the redlines have under the hood...

Whiney 2.0

I didn't have a problem getting mine from up top.

Sh0nuff

Can someone who just put in it and let the oil do it, speak up?
Did it work, was there any issues?
Stealership quoted me $600 to do it.......idiots..

damien

iTrader: (3)

Just put it in and then push down on the guide a bit. Leave the valve cover off and have someone crank the car as you watch the engine turn over. If it jumps, bad but it'll be a lot safer than actually starting the car and having it jump

07YellowSS

My 07 has just over 7000 miles on it, on a cold start it will make the chain noise and will go away after 1 min. It only does it when its cold tho...

Whiney 2.0

If it just does it at start up and quits, I wouldn't worry about it.