Timing Chain Rattle & Hesitation
#76
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Can anyone provide proof that you don't need to pop the tensioner to release it? I've installed new design ones in two engines, and you definately have to hit the chain/guide end with something to get it to release to full tension from my experience. Unless you are installing it fully extended and compressing it down with the threads, which isn't right but thats what it sounds like people in here are doing.
#77
Senior Member
Can anyone provide proof that you don't need to pop the tensioner to release it? I've installed new design ones in two engines, and you definately have to hit the chain/guide end with something to get it to release to full tension from my experience. Unless you are installing it fully extended and compressing it down with the threads, which isn't right but thats what it sounds like people in here are doing.
can you explain that? i plan on changing mine today and from what you just said i cant just go out brake lose the old one and thread in the new one and then tighten it there is more to it the just that?
#78
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
All the ones i've done have been during an engine tear down, and once you get the head on, cam gears on and aligned, you install the tensioner, stick something down the opening between the chains through the head, whack the guide one time, it pops out, and you are good to go. This is the process defined in the build book, and i've used it with the newer tensioners without a problem. The differences in tensioner design had to do with oil flow through the tensioner, not the basic design of it (oil assisted spring), so I'm wondering if they really did change the install procedure. Usually, you twist the center piece down into a locked position so you can install it, then pop it to release it. It does require removing the valve cover if you are doing it on a complete engine, but thats it.
#80
All the ones i've done have been during an engine tear down, and once you get the head on, cam gears on and aligned, you install the tensioner, stick something down the opening between the chains through the head, whack the guide one time, it pops out, and you are good to go. This is the process defined in the build book, and i've used it with the newer tensioners without a problem. The differences in tensioner design had to do with oil flow through the tensioner, not the basic design of it (oil assisted spring), so I'm wondering if they really did change the install procedure. Usually, you twist the center piece down into a locked position so you can install it, then pop it to release it. It does require removing the valve cover if you are doing it on a complete engine, but thats it.
#81
ok, i found the answer to my own question. here it is for anyone else who is wondering:
my new style tensioner arrived already compressed. however, yours may have been jarred loose during shipping. the way to tell if it's compressed already is if the plunger slides freely in and out approximately 3/4".
if it doesn't slide freely you'll have to disassemble it to compress it before installing. use something to compress the plunger into the tensioner body so it doesn't explode when you remove the snap ring. I used a big pair of adjustable pliers but a vise with a wide opening should work just fine too. you'll need the vise anyway to reassemble. remove the snap ring. the plunger should pull out of the tensioner body with the internal piston and spring assembly. put the tip of the plunger into a vise and use a big screwdriver to twist the bottom of the plunger back into the piston housing. you'll have to rotate it about a full turn. reassemble the piston/plunger into the tensioner body and reinstall the snap ring. the plunger should move freely as described above.
now, if you were to remove the old tensioner and install the new tensioner in its compressed state and just fire up the car and hope oil pressure releases the new tensioner before the chain jumps teeth...well i'm not going to risk it. i'm going to remove the valve cover and hit the tensioner guide (more like tap it) so it pops the tensioner before i restart my car. this means i'll probably want to devote an hour to this whole endeavor.
my new style tensioner arrived already compressed. however, yours may have been jarred loose during shipping. the way to tell if it's compressed already is if the plunger slides freely in and out approximately 3/4".
if it doesn't slide freely you'll have to disassemble it to compress it before installing. use something to compress the plunger into the tensioner body so it doesn't explode when you remove the snap ring. I used a big pair of adjustable pliers but a vise with a wide opening should work just fine too. you'll need the vise anyway to reassemble. remove the snap ring. the plunger should pull out of the tensioner body with the internal piston and spring assembly. put the tip of the plunger into a vise and use a big screwdriver to twist the bottom of the plunger back into the piston housing. you'll have to rotate it about a full turn. reassemble the piston/plunger into the tensioner body and reinstall the snap ring. the plunger should move freely as described above.
now, if you were to remove the old tensioner and install the new tensioner in its compressed state and just fire up the car and hope oil pressure releases the new tensioner before the chain jumps teeth...well i'm not going to risk it. i'm going to remove the valve cover and hit the tensioner guide (more like tap it) so it pops the tensioner before i restart my car. this means i'll probably want to devote an hour to this whole endeavor.
#84
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
ok, i found the answer to my own question. here it is for anyone else who is wondering:
my new style tensioner arrived already compressed. however, yours may have been jarred loose during shipping. the way to tell if it's compressed already is if the plunger slides freely in and out approximately 3/4".
if it doesn't slide freely you'll have to disassemble it to compress it before installing. use something to compress the plunger into the tensioner body so it doesn't explode when you remove the snap ring. I used a big pair of adjustable pliers but a vise with a wide opening should work just fine too. you'll need the vise anyway to reassemble. remove the snap ring. the plunger should pull out of the tensioner body with the internal piston and spring assembly. put the tip of the plunger into a vise and use a big screwdriver to twist the bottom of the plunger back into the piston housing. you'll have to rotate it about a full turn. reassemble the piston/plunger into the tensioner body and reinstall the snap ring. the plunger should move freely as described above.
now, if you were to remove the old tensioner and install the new tensioner in its compressed state and just fire up the car and hope oil pressure releases the new tensioner before the chain jumps teeth...well i'm not going to risk it. i'm going to remove the valve cover and hit the tensioner guide (more like tap it) so it pops the tensioner before i restart my car. this means i'll probably want to devote an hour to this whole endeavor.
my new style tensioner arrived already compressed. however, yours may have been jarred loose during shipping. the way to tell if it's compressed already is if the plunger slides freely in and out approximately 3/4".
if it doesn't slide freely you'll have to disassemble it to compress it before installing. use something to compress the plunger into the tensioner body so it doesn't explode when you remove the snap ring. I used a big pair of adjustable pliers but a vise with a wide opening should work just fine too. you'll need the vise anyway to reassemble. remove the snap ring. the plunger should pull out of the tensioner body with the internal piston and spring assembly. put the tip of the plunger into a vise and use a big screwdriver to twist the bottom of the plunger back into the piston housing. you'll have to rotate it about a full turn. reassemble the piston/plunger into the tensioner body and reinstall the snap ring. the plunger should move freely as described above.
now, if you were to remove the old tensioner and install the new tensioner in its compressed state and just fire up the car and hope oil pressure releases the new tensioner before the chain jumps teeth...well i'm not going to risk it. i'm going to remove the valve cover and hit the tensioner guide (more like tap it) so it pops the tensioner before i restart my car. this means i'll probably want to devote an hour to this whole endeavor.
#85
Premium Member
For those on this thread with the problem try and look at my engine noise thread also. Timing chain was an issue and it also caused scaring of the cams and some issues with some of the roller rockers ect... So if you think your prob is timing chain related it is a good idea to pull the cover and take a look.
#87
Senior Member
im just going to simply replace mine with out taking the valve cover off and poping it my new one moves freely so i think it is compressed and the oil pressure will do the rest
#91
Senior Member
im at college so any idea what i can use for a braker bar? and if i used a big one i would have to do it from under the car and i didnt bring my jack or car stands to college with me so any ideas?
#93
Senior Member
I think mine is doing it too, but
i can only hear it ticking after I start it when it's cold.
Vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYDsci-EBLg
i can only hear it ticking after I start it when it's cold.
Vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYDsci-EBLg
#94
Senior Member
#95
32 mm combination wrench...hook another combination wrench onto it to increase leverage. don't punch yourself in the face lol.
i forget how much more space the redlines have under the hood...
i forget how much more space the redlines have under the hood...
#98
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Just put it in and then push down on the guide a bit. Leave the valve cover off and have someone crank the car as you watch the engine turn over. If it jumps, bad but it'll be a lot safer than actually starting the car and having it jump