Trying some new NGK plugs (non-resistor).
04-03-2008, 03:20 AM
#52
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-03-06
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 4,958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Honestly though, we still don't know 100% what happened. We thought at first improper torque on the rod caps but its really looking like an oil overheating/starvation issue as each rod journal has discoloration and scarring. I'm going to pull the old crank out for ***** and giggles tomorrow and see if the main journals show the same as the rod journals.
04-03-2008, 03:29 AM
#53
Well, theres positive crankcase ventilation, this one is negative. NCV?
Honestly though, we still don't know 100% what happened. We thought at first improper torque on the rod caps but its really looking like an oil overheating/starvation issue as each rod journal has discoloration and scarring. I'm going to pull the old crank out for ***** and giggles tomorrow and see if the main journals show the same as the rod journals.
Honestly though, we still don't know 100% what happened. We thought at first improper torque on the rod caps but its really looking like an oil overheating/starvation issue as each rod journal has discoloration and scarring. I'm going to pull the old crank out for ***** and giggles tomorrow and see if the main journals show the same as the rod journals.
04-03-2008, 03:33 AM
#54
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-03-06
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 4,958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
04-03-2008, 04:02 AM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-08-05
Location: Niceville, FL
Posts: 6,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Witt, I feel his pain trust me!
02 Z24 Supercharged, cracked a piston and lightly scratched the cylinder wall.
My Cobalt, first motor had a freak brake in the top end at 7000 miles and chunked the cams, destoyed the valvetrain, and the rest of the motor as well. All I had was an intake, and this was not my fault. 2nd motor in the Cobalt blew a headgasket with GM Stage 2, intake, and exhaust. Luckily I caught it before worse damage was done. GM voided my warranty at this point and left me to fix it myself because the local service manager is an *******. Did I mention his techs spilled brake fluid in my fuse box and destroyed it so that it had to be replaced, and they scratched my door with their new lifts so the whole side of the car had to be repainted? Broke two third gears, but so far I am doing well with my third tranny. Car ate a set of shift linkage as well during the whole 3 different versions of Clutchmasters clutches I went through during the fiasco we went through. Finally, the twinscrew snout failed on my on a trip to Florida in the middle of the highway causing blower damage.
Nex up is the Integra. With a hard 164k on the stock engine when I got it, the motor blew a headgasket shortly after the turbo was bolted on. Then not even two hours after I replaced the headgasket the motor blew up completely with a cracked sylinder wall. Lesson learned is that you must torque the head studs into the block instead of hand tight like ARP's directions state! That and it would be nice if your buddy gives you a heads up he turned the boost controller up as I turned it up myself too. Then the dizzy died on the highway as stated before during rush hour traffic shortly thereafter. Not to mention my buddies car is down and I let him drive the Integra to work and one day a freaking deer ran out of the woods into the side of it and destoyed my driver's side fender and door!
Here are just some minor pics of the war path of destruction I've experience in the past year and a half. Nevermind the stuff before that!
02 Z24 Supercharged, cracked a piston and lightly scratched the cylinder wall.
My Cobalt, first motor had a freak brake in the top end at 7000 miles and chunked the cams, destoyed the valvetrain, and the rest of the motor as well. All I had was an intake, and this was not my fault. 2nd motor in the Cobalt blew a headgasket with GM Stage 2, intake, and exhaust. Luckily I caught it before worse damage was done. GM voided my warranty at this point and left me to fix it myself because the local service manager is an *******. Did I mention his techs spilled brake fluid in my fuse box and destroyed it so that it had to be replaced, and they scratched my door with their new lifts so the whole side of the car had to be repainted? Broke two third gears, but so far I am doing well with my third tranny. Car ate a set of shift linkage as well during the whole 3 different versions of Clutchmasters clutches I went through during the fiasco we went through. Finally, the twinscrew snout failed on my on a trip to Florida in the middle of the highway causing blower damage.
Nex up is the Integra. With a hard 164k on the stock engine when I got it, the motor blew a headgasket shortly after the turbo was bolted on. Then not even two hours after I replaced the headgasket the motor blew up completely with a cracked sylinder wall. Lesson learned is that you must torque the head studs into the block instead of hand tight like ARP's directions state! That and it would be nice if your buddy gives you a heads up he turned the boost controller up as I turned it up myself too. Then the dizzy died on the highway as stated before during rush hour traffic shortly thereafter. Not to mention my buddies car is down and I let him drive the Integra to work and one day a freaking deer ran out of the woods into the side of it and destoyed my driver's side fender and door!
Here are just some minor pics of the war path of destruction I've experience in the past year and a half. Nevermind the stuff before that!
04-03-2008, 10:39 AM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-13-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Running resistor spark plugs vs. non-resistor is there any benefit like not having a resistor heating up the plug or a more powerful spark getting into the cylinder? As it seems these plugs are nice and cheap and my plugs may not be working well for long i was just curious.
I'm looking for a heat range colder with my setup, but i already see 1-2 degrees of knock on stage 2 and 2.9" with the one step colder NGK BR7E's, (making me thinks its gapping).
I'm looking for a heat range colder with my setup, but i already see 1-2 degrees of knock on stage 2 and 2.9" with the one step colder NGK BR7E's, (making me thinks its gapping).
04-03-2008, 01:28 PM
#58
Senior Member
Witt, whats the part number for the heat range9 plugs your trying?
i'm going to jump another step colder as the weather has finally broken and headed upwards, and the turbos ability to feed this engine consistent boost.
autolites or NGK's....
lmk.
i'm going to jump another step colder as the weather has finally broken and headed upwards, and the turbos ability to feed this engine consistent boost.
autolites or NGK's....
lmk.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
agentirons
Electronics, Audio, and Video
2
10-16-2015 02:11 AM