Okay guys, I bought a 2006 LSJ-T back in May and it cracked a cylinder wall during a pull getting on the freeway a month later

I'm making this thread for advice/finding parts/and general knowledge on swapping from an LSJ-T to a Gen3-T. This thread is to help me complete this rebuild and it will also be a place to gather part numbers and suppliers so that when other members need to do the same rebuild, that there is one thread for everything.

Car made just over 500hp/460tq to the wheels.
Mods:
Garrett GT3076R Turbo
Diamond 10:1 pistons
Pauter Rods
OTTP stage 2 cams
TTR Intake Manifold
ZZP Turbo Manifold
Tial Wastegate
Synapse POV
Ported Head
Supertech 75lb Valve spring kit
ARP Headstuds
160# injectors (E85 Tune)
DW340lph in tank and DW 350lph in line fuel pumps
-8 feed and -6 return with regulator post rail
AEM Truboost boost controller
AEM Wideband
Balance shaft Delete
KY stage 4 clutch
OEM flywheel
Heat/cryo treated 4.45 trans with LSD built by Matt Howe
Lowering springs
ZZP motor mounts
HP Tuned.

I took the Gen 3 block that I bought from Jeffery Nelson Reiland to a machine shop along with the 4340 rods, diamond pistons, and the stock crank so that they could check everything out. They are honing the block, resurfacing the deck, polishing and balancing the crank, and will be doing the assembly on the lower end.

My first questions on the rebuild are
1. where can I buy new main bolts (should be 20 big bolts, and 10 small bolts)?
2. What are the best main/rod bearings to use, and where can I find them?
3. What are the best piston rings to use with my 86mm 10:1 diamond pistons?
4. What other parts are needed to assemble the lower end of the block?

Thank you in advance

 

OEM bolts.
OEM bearings
Contact Diamond pistons, they are super helpful and will get you the right rings.
Not much, as most seals are RTV and the mains are the only real thing. Rear main seal?

 

rear and front main seals, timing cover gasket if youre really feeling rich, rtv for girdle and oil pan, if youre going all out i would use clevite bearings but oem are good too

 

Thank you guys. Im going with clevite rod bearings and oe main bearings

 

Im also having a machine shop balance and assemble the lower end.

 

I didn't think our engines needed balanced? Or am I wrong?

 

most skip it, but in reality, all engines benifit from balancing. when done right, each piston and wrist pin should be the same weight, connecting rods have each end matched to the other rods. the crank is spun and weight removed or heavy metal added to get it smooth (similar to a tire). ideally should be done with the flywheel and damper your using bolted to it. balancing removes harmonic vibrations from the rotating assembly. longer bearing life and a smoother running engine is the result.

when i built my l61 many years ago i had my balancing guy take a look at it. he said the crank wasnt bad, however the wiseco pistons and eagle rods needed some work. was worth it, the engine is dead smooth, even with no balance shafts.

 

Balancing also results in less parasitic loss, you can feel the engine rev smoother, start more crisply, and shut off quicker with less uneven mass to bounce around. We did a full balance on a QR25 I built for a friend, it ran so much smoother than any of the setups we had before, and it was just simple piston/rod stuff, nothing exotic. The balance made it feel much better and it revved way stronger even with a heavier rod/piston total weight.

 

keep us posted. im ready to get our cars back on the road again

 

Waiting on piston rings. I was advised to buy conventional racing rings from total seal instead of their Gapless 2nd set. so those should be in by Thursday.
A question I have is about the oil cooler. Jeffery said that I'll only need to drill one hole to fit my lsj oil cooler on, but the block is at the machine shop, so I have no clue which one is missing. lol

 

you do not want to deck the block unless it is absolutely needed same with the head and depending on which clevite rod bearing you get they are no better then stock

 

I would strat away from that intake manifold.

 

Why is that?

 

Some modification required for it to fit and there is no provision for the stock PCV system

 

The original owner built the car using this manifold, so all of the modifications that it needed were already done. I appreciate the input

 

Not even that. The stock manifold is a better solution and design. Air flows better around curvs that straights and angles. The pcv has no actual mount it just hangs out. Theres no mounting for the fuel pressure valve that normally mounts to the stock manifold. People use these but personally i think the stock one works fine.

Edit.... didnt realize you were an lsj even though its obvioua haha. Saab manifold ia the way to go

 

I have a saab manifold modified for turbo LSJ use if you're interested.

 

how much do you want for it?

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...pin-tb-320740/

Make me a reasonable offer and its yours