Unofficial Blown Up Engine Thread
04-27-2007, 09:13 PM
#76
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i rehoned all the cylinders then brake cleaned and washed with hot soapy water dried, relubed with a light layer of oil and dropped the pistons in.
04-27-2007, 09:16 PM
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Did you hone them while the crankcase was all still together? I am only asking because I have no sleeve damage, and the motor is still so new... I still have some cross hatching. So I don't know if I want to just toss in the new pistons and rings without rehoning or not. I don't want to hone then have metal particles dropping into the crankcase.
04-27-2007, 09:23 PM
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Did you hone them while the crankcase was all still together? I am only asking because I have no sleeve damage, and the motor is still so new... I still have some cross hatching. So I don't know if I want to just toss in the new pistons and rings without rehoning or not. I don't want to hone then have metal particles dropping into the crankcase.
04-27-2007, 10:50 PM
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Its not critical to re-hone. If there is no sleeve damage you are good to not hone it. The new rings will break in based on the cylinder shape. Honing is highly recomended, but not required.
04-30-2007, 09:19 AM
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Well got the pistons in and the motor back together and she runs great, now it is to time to rebreak the motor in all of again damn and retune once it is broken in
05-01-2007, 09:16 AM
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ok so the motor started up just fine and runs fine but I have this weird noise that I can not figure out where is coming from.... it does not get louder or faster sounding as the engine rpms go up it is a constantant sound it is not a knocking or ticking sound and everyone who has listened to the motor is puzzled as well. I just seeing if has experienced a weird sound in a way like the fly wheel would be is rubbing on something which i never took off, i did in car rebuild, and again the sound does not change at all with rpms it is a constant sounding.... grrr and I am not throwing any codes other than the famous no cat code. I know people will probably want to flame me since I dont have a sound clip lol... trying to determine engine sucks ass
05-01-2007, 08:34 PM
#82
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Yeah a sound clip would be good. no change in sound with rpm? did you put all your fluids in? I am thinking of intercooler. perhaps there is air in it? the pump would not change with RPM right? that is why I thought of it.
Note - for tuning. have you see this thread? I thought it was good and made sense. What do you think?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/tuning-131/richen-those-tunes-56849/
Note - for tuning. have you see this thread? I thought it was good and made sense. What do you think?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/tuning-131/richen-those-tunes-56849/
05-01-2007, 08:47 PM
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Note - for tuning. have you see this thread? I thought it was good and made sense. What do you think?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56849
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56849
05-01-2007, 09:19 PM
#85
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Well in the thread there are guys claiming that they run 2.5" and NOS and no problems. they are pushing more HP than the guys that are blowing up. GM sends it out from the factory this way. its not making more engines to blow. the car will not be flooded. cant run that way. IT is rich but still vaporizing the fuel. THat is why I dont believe it will be worse.
cooling is not a problem the cars are not overheating. oil is not a problem as it is the top ringland that is breaking down. not the part of piston below the oil rings or any other part due to oiling.
not sure if I agree with your statement based on the above reasons.
05-01-2007, 09:42 PM
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Well in the thread there are guys claiming that they run 2.5" and NOS and no problems. they are pushing more HP than the guys that are blowing up. GM sends it out from the factory this way. its not making more engines to blow. the car will not be flooded. cant run that way. IT is rich but still vaporizing the fuel. THat is why I dont believe it will be worse.
cooling is not a problem the cars are not overheating. oil is not a problem as it is the top ringland that is breaking down. not the part of piston below the oil rings or any other part due to oiling.
not sure if I agree with your statement based on the above reasons.
cooling is not a problem the cars are not overheating. oil is not a problem as it is the top ringland that is breaking down. not the part of piston below the oil rings or any other part due to oiling.
not sure if I agree with your statement based on the above reasons.
You're robbing rings of much needed lubrication. When you dip richer than 11-1 you start washing cylinder walls robbing rings of oil. You also contaminate your oil with gasoline.
You have a very real possiblility of melting the head. When A/F gets richer than 11.5-1 on these cars, EGTs climb very high very fast. I've seen as high as 1700 degrees until A/F was brought leaner than a flat 11. Its the fact that you're dumping still burning fuel out the exhaust valves.
Local guy here (WSFrazier) also nuked piston 4. It overheated at the oil ringland and part of the piston skirt. I'm finding a pic to post to show this.
My advise is instead of dumping fuel at the pistons making a bad situation worse, if you truly think this is a fueling issue, convert to a higher volume fuel rail or return fuel system.
Just my 2 cents.
Pic of WSFrazier's nuked piston number 4 showing damage to the bottom of the piston.
Last edited by Witt; 05-01-2007 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-01-2007, 09:48 PM
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Not to flame, but I think I need to be a little blunt about this. That thread is full of people giving advice about tuning who have never modified EFI before buying a Cobalt, and they make it blatantly obvious. Any experienced EFI tuner will list these following points as to why dumping fuel into an engine in that method is going to be a problem waiting to happen.
You're robbing rings of much needed lubrication. When you dip richer than 11-1 you start washing cylinder walls robbing rings of oil. You also contaminate your oil with gasoline.
You have a very real possiblility of melting the head. When A/F gets richer than 11.5-1 on these cars, EGTs climb very high very fast. I've seen as high as 1700 degrees until A/F was brought leaner than a flat 11. Its the fact that you're dumping still burning fuel out the exhaust valves.
Local guy here (WSFrazier) also nuked piston 4. It overheated at the oil ringland and part of the piston skirt. I'm finding a pic to post to show this.
My advise is instead of dumping fuel at the pistons making a bad situation worse, if you truly think this is a fueling issue, convert to a higher volume fuel rail or return fuel system.
Just my 2 cents.
Pic of WSFrazier's nuked piston number 4 showing damage to the bottom of the piston.
You're robbing rings of much needed lubrication. When you dip richer than 11-1 you start washing cylinder walls robbing rings of oil. You also contaminate your oil with gasoline.
You have a very real possiblility of melting the head. When A/F gets richer than 11.5-1 on these cars, EGTs climb very high very fast. I've seen as high as 1700 degrees until A/F was brought leaner than a flat 11. Its the fact that you're dumping still burning fuel out the exhaust valves.
Local guy here (WSFrazier) also nuked piston 4. It overheated at the oil ringland and part of the piston skirt. I'm finding a pic to post to show this.
My advise is instead of dumping fuel at the pistons making a bad situation worse, if you truly think this is a fueling issue, convert to a higher volume fuel rail or return fuel system.
Just my 2 cents.
Pic of WSFrazier's nuked piston number 4 showing damage to the bottom of the piston.
05-01-2007, 09:49 PM
#88
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Not to flame, but I think I need to be a little blunt about this. That thread is full of people giving advice about tuning who have never modified EFI before buying a Cobalt, and they make it blatantly obvious. Any experienced EFI tuner will list these following points as to why dumping fuel into an engine in that method is going to be a problem waiting to happen.
You're robbing rings of much needed lubrication. When you dip richer than 11-1 you start washing cylinder walls robbing rings of oil. You also contaminate your oil with gasoline.
You have a very real possiblility of melting the head. When A/F gets richer than 11.5-1 on these cars, EGTs climb very high very fast. I've seen as high as 1700 degrees until A/F was brought leaner than a flat 11. Its the fact that you're dumping still burning fuel out the exhaust valves.
Local guy here (WSFrazier) also nuked piston 4. It overheated at the oil ringland and part of the piston skirt. I'm finding a pic to post to show this.
My advise is instead of dumping fuel at the pistons making a bad situation worse, if you truly think this is a fueling issue, convert to a higher volume fuel rail or return fuel system.
Just my 2 cents.
Pic of WSFrazier's nuked piston number 4 showing damage to the bottom of the piston.
You're robbing rings of much needed lubrication. When you dip richer than 11-1 you start washing cylinder walls robbing rings of oil. You also contaminate your oil with gasoline.
You have a very real possiblility of melting the head. When A/F gets richer than 11.5-1 on these cars, EGTs climb very high very fast. I've seen as high as 1700 degrees until A/F was brought leaner than a flat 11. Its the fact that you're dumping still burning fuel out the exhaust valves.
Local guy here (WSFrazier) also nuked piston 4. It overheated at the oil ringland and part of the piston skirt. I'm finding a pic to post to show this.
My advise is instead of dumping fuel at the pistons making a bad situation worse, if you truly think this is a fueling issue, convert to a higher volume fuel rail or return fuel system.
Just my 2 cents.
Pic of WSFrazier's nuked piston number 4 showing damage to the bottom of the piston.
05-01-2007, 09:54 PM
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I'm not trying to be an ass, but this is not something you wanna take the cheap way out on. Richening PE to solve a lean issue on cylinder 4 (if thats whats even causing these blown engines) is only going to create problems on other cylinders. If you have to run richer than 11.5-1 just to keep one cylinder from nuking, imagine how far off the others are from that 11.5-1 that your UEGO is reporting to balance out that reported average.
If this ends up being a fuel issue, the real fix is the fuel supply, not the tune.
Mine came out to 12.5 and steadily richened to 11-1 as adders come into play to protect the intake valves and cat. converter. Also it only made 239whp when it had GM stage 2 on it.
Also, +rep to everyone for an interesting thread.
If this ends up being a fuel issue, the real fix is the fuel supply, not the tune.
Also, +rep to everyone for an interesting thread.
Last edited by Witt; 05-01-2007 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-01-2007, 10:12 PM
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I'm not trying to be an ass, but this is not something you wanna take the cheap way out on. Richening PE to solve a lean issue on cylinder 4 (if thats whats even causing these blown engines) is only going to create problems on other cylinders. If you have to run richer than 11.5-1 just to keep one cylinder from nuking, imagine how far off the others are from that 11.5-1 that your UEGO is reporting to balance out that reported average.
If this ends up being a fuel issue, the real fix is the fuel supply, not the tune.
Mine came out to 12.5 and steadily richened to 11-1 as adders come into play to protect the intake valves and cat. converter. Also it only made 239whp when it had GM stage 2 on it.
Also, +rep to everyone for an interesting thread.
If this ends up being a fuel issue, the real fix is the fuel supply, not the tune.
Mine came out to 12.5 and steadily richened to 11-1 as adders come into play to protect the intake valves and cat. converter. Also it only made 239whp when it had GM stage 2 on it.
Also, +rep to everyone for an interesting thread.
05-01-2007, 10:35 PM
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Thats the main problem. Piston 4 is the culprit nearly everytime which indicates some kind of design issue is causing it. It may be fuel related, cooling, or oil, nobody has any concrete evidence as of yet. The only part I don't agree with is richening PE to the level that it causes even more problems.
I have a feeling that lack of proper fueling is probably going to end up being the ultimate problem, but the real solution imho is a high volume rail or return style fuel system.
I have a feeling that lack of proper fueling is probably going to end up being the ultimate problem, but the real solution imho is a high volume rail or return style fuel system.
this thread is depressing
05-01-2007, 10:40 PM
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ya rly
and stupid me, I went to summit to buy fittings and a pump to finish my return fuel system and instead walked out with a blue bottle. Maybe I'll get it done next week.
and stupid me, I went to summit to buy fittings and a pump to finish my return fuel system and instead walked out with a blue bottle. Maybe I'll get it done next week.
05-01-2007, 11:32 PM
#94
yah my ringland on the top half gave out, im sure mine was a running way hotter in cylinder #4 since i have a 3 headers im gonna run 4 egt's on a stockish car and prove that #4 is an issue with a/f so everyone is happy, i know many beyond many do belive its a fueling issue, i was looking at the block last night for any kind of possible coolant puddling, blocked lines, looked at the head and cant find any restrictions, i go to my fuel rail and bam #4 vs all the rest has a bad cut going into it, which i believe is the issue
no but u get a wrx exhuast mod lol
no but u get a wrx exhuast mod
lol
Last edited by sunfirejoe; 05-01-2007 at 11:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-02-2007, 12:15 AM
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well I figured out were the noise coming from it was a small kink in the breather catch can line lol. other than that runs beautifully. So since I have to get retuned what should the ideal a/f be to help reserve the new pistons till a new fuel rail or return line option is made?
05-02-2007, 12:26 AM
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yah my ringland on the top half gave out, im sure mine was a running way hotter in cylinder #4 since i have a 3 headers im gonna run 4 egt's on a stockish car and prove that #4 is an issue with a/f so everyone is happy, i know many beyond many do belive its a fueling issue, i was looking at the block last night for any kind of possible coolant puddling, blocked lines, looked at the head and cant find any restrictions, i go to my fuel rail and bam #4 vs all the rest has a bad cut going into it, which i believe is the issue
no but u get a wrx exhuast mod lol
no but u get a wrx exhuast mod
lolNate
05-02-2007, 12:34 AM
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Everyone, just let me graduate ******* high school so I can devote more time to my car! I graduate in less than 20 days! After that I'm going to pull the motor and take everything to my work. At work, I will rebalance the entire rotating assembly, and lighten the crank. On top of this, we will most likely blueprint the block. I will do all that I can to figure out all the issues with the running lean and what not. Just give it time! I am also strongly thinking of doing a return fuel line.
Your just jealous that my car will be faster 
