2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Want to go Turbo question about pistons

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Old 07-02-2007, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
Exactly.

and even still, with a efficient aftermarket turbocharger, compression ratio is not going to be that much of the concern.



No it wasn't...

Just playing LOL
Hardy har har

I hate you NJHK, you're a trouble maker j/k
Old 07-02-2007, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey851
Hardy har har

I hate you NJHK, you're a trouble maker j/k
Trouble is my middle name

(so cliche)
Old 07-02-2007, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
What turbo you using?
hes copying me on the center section and compressor cover, he wants to try a smaller exhaust housing(it'll put the car rite on if not over the surge line around the 18ish psi mark and up.) none the less they are a custom unit built by PTE and there code is a SC3061RS W/15HEE exhaust side(that there code for v-band)
Old 07-02-2007, 11:17 PM
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I have been thinking of getting a GT3076....I dunno
Old 07-02-2007, 11:19 PM
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Im kinda in the same battle you are about which compression to run. The only reason im concerned if 9.5: is low enough is because im going to be running a procharger @ 22psi. At 24psi, the procharger pushes 1000cfm. I think i should play it safe with 8.9:1's. I doubt your going to be pushing that much air through your engine, you should be fine with 9 or 9.5:1 with any small-mid sized turbo you put on. Just get the turbo then build the engine from there.

Hey NJHK, you may want to include a Forged Internals section of your Turbo FAQ with FAQ on CR's and whats best for what.
Old 07-02-2007, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Sw4y1313
Im kinda in the same battle you are about which compression to run. The only reason im concerned if 9.5: is low enough is because im going to be running a procharger @ 22psi. At 24psi, the procharger pushes 1000cfm. I think i should play it safe with 8.9:1's. I doubt your going to be pushing that much air through your engine, you should be fine with 9 or 9.5:1 with any small-mid sized turbo you put on. Just get the turbo then build the engine from there.

Hey NJHK, you may want to include a Forged Internals section of your Turbo FAQ with FAQ on CR's and whats best for what.
Is that staying within it's efficiency range (sorry I don't know much about Prochargers)?

I might ressurrect the FAQ addition thread...

Think I should?

Originally Posted by 06black
hes copying me on the center section and compressor cover, he wants to try a smaller exhaust housing(it'll put the car rite on if not over the surge line around the 18ish psi mark and up.) none the less they are a custom unit built by PTE and there code is a SC3061RS W/15HEE exhaust side(that there code for v-band)
Not bad. Alot of people are into getting the V-bands for simple removals but more power to you if you want to spend the money for a good part.

Originally Posted by Doc
I have been thinking of getting a GT3076....I dunno
I would if I were you

Last edited by NJHK; 07-02-2007 at 11:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-02-2007, 11:30 PM
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9.0:1

psi is irrelevant. the quicker you know this, the better off you will be in life.
Old 07-02-2007, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Area47
9.0:1

psi is irrelevant. the quicker you know this, the better off you will be in life.
Thank you so much
Old 07-02-2007, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
I would if I were you
I need to do more homework, the turbine housing kits are confusing me.
Old 07-03-2007, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 06black
hes copying me on the center section and compressor cover, he wants to try a smaller exhaust housing
whoa there. You asked me months ago if I wanted in on the project so that you would have someone to do it with. Not my fault you decided things as I was still learning. Plus, I tried to change several things around, but gotta face the fact that I think the way your doing it is the way to go.

Oh well, worst case senario it doesn't do as well as yours, and I get a new exhaust housing and a new flange on the manifold. God I hope I have mail today.
Old 07-03-2007, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
Is that staying within it's efficiency range (sorry I don't know much about Prochargers)?

I might ressurrect the FAQ addition thread...

Think I should?
I dunno if you should ressurrect it, if enough people have input =P I would at least add something about CR's.

Prochargers Max efficiency is 1000cfm @ 24psi. And i agree with all you guys, PSI isnt crap when dealing with this stuff. I've learned to work with the compressor map of my turbo to determine the max efficiency. It took awhile to learn how to do it but it really helps pick out the right parts for your application. Switching over to a completely different platform is a kinda challenging tho =P

Hey OP, heres my advice for you. Take about 1-2hrs a week. My job isnt super demanding so i do this all day at work(like i am right now). Get on the forum and search for anything you have a question about or arent completely sure of. For example: turbo sizing. Go through as many posts as you can until you understand the concept of what your looking for. If that isnt enough, jump on google. If your satisfied with the knowledge you now have, do it again with another subject. Now since your looking into doing a turbo, you want to familiarize yourself with EVERYTHING there is to putting a turbo into the car. The thing that helped me the most, was NJHK's Turbo FAQ and HOW TO make your own turbo kit. I read those about 100 times each until i could resite them. Now that might seem like a waste of time, but i guarantee you its not. You will save lots of time and money on buying the correct parts for your car the first time. Please dont take after me and go all out turbo and switch over to s/c, it would normally be a waste of money lol. So get your butt familiarized with that search button. Its gonna be your best friend until your build is done.
Old 07-03-2007, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Sw4y1313
I dunno if you should ressurrect it, if enough people have input =P I would at least add something about CR's.

Prochargers Max efficiency is 1000cfm @ 24psi. And i agree with all you guys, PSI isnt crap when dealing with this stuff. I've learned to work with the compressor map of my turbo to determine the max efficiency. It took awhile to learn how to do it but it really helps pick out the right parts for your application. Switching over to a completely different platform is a kinda challenging tho =P

Hey OP, heres my advice for you. Take about 1-2hrs a week. My job isnt super demanding so i do this all day at work(like i am right now). Get on the forum and search for anything you have a question about or arent completely sure of. For example: turbo sizing. Go through as many posts as you can until you understand the concept of what your looking for. If that isnt enough, jump on google. If your satisfied with the knowledge you now have, do it again with another subject. Now since your looking into doing a turbo, you want to familiarize yourself with EVERYTHING there is to putting a turbo into the car. The thing that helped me the most, was NJHK's Turbo FAQ and HOW TO make your own turbo kit. I read those about 100 times each until i could resite them. Now that might seem like a waste of time, but i guarantee you its not. You will save lots of time and money on buying the correct parts for your car the first time. Please dont take after me and go all out turbo and switch over to s/c, it would normally be a waste of money lol. So get your butt familiarized with that search button. Its gonna be your best friend until your build is done.
I am so glad that someone really does read the write ups that I took time to write...ESPECIALLY the FAQ cause it took me and halfcent about 3 days of me writing it and Halfcent revising it and adding to it.

But yes, please read the FAQ. When I get ultra bored, I'm seriously thinking about adding to it and even adding to existing questions to be more detailed.
Old 07-03-2007, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by NGalaxyTimmyo
whoa there. You asked me months ago if I wanted in on the project so that you would have someone to do it with. Not my fault you decided things as I was still learning. Plus, I tried to change several things around, but gotta face the fact that I think the way your doing it is the way to go.

Oh well, worst case senario it doesn't do as well as yours, and I get a new exhaust housing and a new flange on the manifold. God I hope I have mail today.
chill hommie...never said it was bad, by saying you are copying me it connects me to your post so i can answer Adams question for the both of us.

Originally Posted by Doc
I need to do more homework, the turbine housing kits are confusing me.
Doc, go with a 3076R variant....

I spent about a month specing out compressor and exhaust housings to run close but not over the various surge lines at possible PSI out put and while sticking in the 76-78% efficient range.

if you have any questions about that turbo or housings shoot me or Tim(ngalaxytimmyo) a PM....

just tryin to help.

Last edited by 06black; 07-03-2007 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-03-2007, 10:47 AM
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Who is Adam?
Old 07-03-2007, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
Who is Adam?
if my memorie serves me rite i thought it was your name...

if not my apologies and i will edit the post
Old 07-03-2007, 10:50 AM
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It is lol

I was just messing around...sorry I'm bored
Old 07-03-2007, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
Not necessarily

This is where playing with ignition timing is key. There are many ways to fight knocking besides going with higher octane that can be successful but retarding timing is usually a great way of doing so.

The big advantage to running a higher octane and gaining power is that you can run a more aggressive timing advance with higher octane because it allows a higher resistance to detonation.
just to add onto this...

playin with timeing is key as you stated but do remember that your ing advance plays a big role in EGTs and Spool times

Originally Posted by NJHK
It is lol

I was just messing around...sorry I'm bored
no worries man...i've got plenty of work to do but i just dont wanna!

Last edited by 06black; 07-03-2007 at 10:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-03-2007, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 06black
just to add onto this...

playin with timeing is key as you stated but do remember that your ing advance plays a big role in EGTs and Spool times



no worries man...i've got plenty of work to do but i just dont wanna!
True but if you got a disco potatoe, I wouldn't worry so much about Spool Timings

Wait, that might sound backwards.

From my understanding, advanced timing helps in spool timing...

Last edited by NJHK; 07-03-2007 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-03-2007, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
True but if you got a disco potatoe, I wouldn't worry so much about Spool Timings

Wait, that might sound backwards.

From my understanding, advanced timing helps in spool timing...
correct, more timeing=faster spool AND lower egt's(spark farther away from exhaust outlet)

so as a general rule...more timeing=better....and the single bigist limit on timeing is fuel octane, then air temps, ect
Old 07-03-2007, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 06black
correct, more timeing=faster spool AND lower egt's(spark farther away from exhaust outlet)

so as a general rule...more timeing=better....and the single bigist limit on timeing is fuel octane, then air temps, ect
Yeah exactly.



(it's nice to have a convo with someone who isn't spewing **** and we are discussing)
Old 07-03-2007, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
Yeah exactly.



(it's nice to have a convo with someone who isn't spewing **** and we are discussing)
lol i agree!

and to tie into your post from above...i just cought this but the disco potato is the gt2876rs i'm running the a gt3076r center section with ceramic ball bearings and the housings that PTE built.

its eather going to run as perfect as can be or way the **** off..l..but i've ran the formulas and done the homework so i'm confident in this turbos ability to preform to my sepcs and it supports way more HP then i need(wicked CFM rates) so i can always go higher if i so wish
Old 07-03-2007, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 06black
correct, more timeing=faster spool AND lower egt's(spark farther away from exhaust outlet)

so as a general rule...more timeing=better....and the single bigist limit on timeing is fuel octane, then air temps, ect
yes and no.

a motor can only take so much timing, when this line is crossed. rod bearings go boom.

to make another correction, more timing, does not equal faster spool, less timing does.
Old 07-03-2007, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Area47
yes and no.

a motor can only take so much timing, when this line is crossed. rod bearings go boom.

to make another correction, more timing, does not equal faster spool, less timing does.
i'm hoping to get clarification on that...i've heard both, and i can see how it would work in either case....

with the lower timeing numbers the spark falls closer and closer to an open exhaust valve, on that note it also will increase EGT's....i've done some work on dans spark maps and i can predict what mine will look like over the next week with the start of tuning on my set up..lots of timeing out of boost(in comparison to the on boost areas) and less in the cells under boost....it'll be crazy different from my SC maps.

i cant see our motor on pump or even 110 hitting the critical timeing area where a rod barrings might go, its just efficient enough(in a thermal since) and the heads don't flow enough to keep the head temp's down to help prevent pre-det from high IAT's

not saying its impossible, just unlikely.
Old 07-03-2007, 12:44 PM
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the way i have set up my turbo cars in the past is, little to no timing, dump fuel = fast spool time.

this is what the big name turbo car racers do.

anti lag is just that, dumps timing. yes egt's skyrocket, but it is managable, if you control the fuel side of it.
Old 07-03-2007, 01:40 PM
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I'm just sticking with stock compression pistons. With the stock eaton and 2.5-2.6 I should only be making 15-16 psi boost, so that with 9.5:1 is no problem. Couple that with the fact that I'm severly upgrading my intercooler system, during winter, IAT2 could be as cool as ambient air


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