Washer fluid resevior as coolant tank....
#26
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...nothing happens to mine.... lol. are you talking about the opt A filler neck? or the opt B reservoir? regardless, the pressure would need to build up against something, and theres no sealed system for the pressure to build against, it just relieves itself with the atmosphere through the bleeder line on the back of the opt b tank
#27
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I have a couple more questions...is it possible to bleed the system good where you dont have air pockets so you dont have to worry about it going to the highest point? And is the WW resevoir capable of handling the hot coolant?
#28
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^^ you can bleed the system if you use water....just takes a lot of water.... and yes to the temp issue.
fastest easiest way to bleed the system is detach any hose at a high point (preferably the highest) in the system. Turn the pump on (turn the ignition to ON), and stick the inlet side into some pure water...let it sit (you'll need a LOT of water). Water will eventually start flowing out the other side of the point you detached the hose, but there will be air bubbles. Just keep running water through the first end until only a solid stream of water comes through the other end. If w/e your pumping water from goes empty btw, the pump will draw in air until you get that end in water again, making an air pocket you need to bleed. The best system I can think of is just get a biiiig bucket, fill it with distilled water (or mixed with coolant or water wetter if you like), get a hose extension to make the inlet side reach the bucket, and then get another hose extension to make the outlet side reach the same bucket, so any water that comes out with air bubbles just lands in the bucket and can be sucked back up by the inlet side.
i hope the above made sense and wasnt just a blob of confusing words btw...
fastest easiest way to bleed the system is detach any hose at a high point (preferably the highest) in the system. Turn the pump on (turn the ignition to ON), and stick the inlet side into some pure water...let it sit (you'll need a LOT of water). Water will eventually start flowing out the other side of the point you detached the hose, but there will be air bubbles. Just keep running water through the first end until only a solid stream of water comes through the other end. If w/e your pumping water from goes empty btw, the pump will draw in air until you get that end in water again, making an air pocket you need to bleed. The best system I can think of is just get a biiiig bucket, fill it with distilled water (or mixed with coolant or water wetter if you like), get a hose extension to make the inlet side reach the bucket, and then get another hose extension to make the outlet side reach the same bucket, so any water that comes out with air bubbles just lands in the bucket and can be sucked back up by the inlet side.
i hope the above made sense and wasnt just a blob of confusing words btw...
#30
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Don't think it will work, because IIRC most coolant systems are around 13psi. That little top probably won't even hold 2psi.
Cooling systems need pressure, because imagine a water system with pressure. Put a weak point(ww bottle cap) in it, and it will find the weak point and push the coolant out through there. Even at low pressure it still will.
Cooling systems need pressure, because imagine a water system with pressure. Put a weak point(ww bottle cap) in it, and it will find the weak point and push the coolant out through there. Even at low pressure it still will.
#31
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Don't think it will work, because IIRC most coolant systems are around 13psi. That little top probably won't even hold 2psi.
Cooling systems need pressure, because imagine a water system with pressure. Put a weak point(ww bottle cap) in it, and it will find the weak point and push the coolant out through there. Even at low pressure it still will.
Cooling systems need pressure, because imagine a water system with pressure. Put a weak point(ww bottle cap) in it, and it will find the weak point and push the coolant out through there. Even at low pressure it still will.
#32
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then you have to mount the tank high. The washer fluid tank won't work.
^^ you can bleed the system if you use water....just takes a lot of water.... and yes to the temp issue.
fastest easiest way to bleed the system is detach any hose at a high point (preferably the highest) in the system. Turn the pump on (turn the ignition to ON), and stick the inlet side into some pure water...let it sit (you'll need a LOT of water). Water will eventually start flowing out the other side of the point you detached the hose, but there will be air bubbles. Just keep running water through the first end until only a solid stream of water comes through the other end. If w/e your pumping water from goes empty btw, the pump will draw in air until you get that end in water again, making an air pocket you need to bleed. The best system I can think of is just get a biiiig bucket, fill it with distilled water (or mixed with coolant or water wetter if you like), get a hose extension to make the inlet side reach the bucket, and then get another hose extension to make the outlet side reach the same bucket, so any water that comes out with air bubbles just lands in the bucket and can be sucked back up by the inlet side.
i hope the above made sense and wasnt just a blob of confusing words btw...
fastest easiest way to bleed the system is detach any hose at a high point (preferably the highest) in the system. Turn the pump on (turn the ignition to ON), and stick the inlet side into some pure water...let it sit (you'll need a LOT of water). Water will eventually start flowing out the other side of the point you detached the hose, but there will be air bubbles. Just keep running water through the first end until only a solid stream of water comes through the other end. If w/e your pumping water from goes empty btw, the pump will draw in air until you get that end in water again, making an air pocket you need to bleed. The best system I can think of is just get a biiiig bucket, fill it with distilled water (or mixed with coolant or water wetter if you like), get a hose extension to make the inlet side reach the bucket, and then get another hose extension to make the outlet side reach the same bucket, so any water that comes out with air bubbles just lands in the bucket and can be sucked back up by the inlet side.
i hope the above made sense and wasnt just a blob of confusing words btw...
wow, that's a lot of work, and it will eventually work air back into the system again. I don't see why people don't go with opt. B. Even if it's custom, you should do it. The cooling benefit of no air pockets is worth it.
Last edited by ralliartist; 10-15-2008 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#33
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I am on the phone and it won't let me watch the video....so does the system need to constantly bleed itself? can air pockets hey into the system after you bleed it the first time?
#34
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yes, air pockets can work back into the system even after bleeding the first time. When you get a chance, take a look at that vid. you'll see how I have a bleeder hose that comes from the top of the stock h/e (the highest point other than my ice box/opt. b in the system) that bleeds constantly into the ice box/opt. b. I may even go make a quick vid today that explains the system thoroughly so that it can be stickied and people won't have so many questions about it anymore.
#35
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is the overflow or blender nipple on the top of the cx h.e the same thing your talking about as a bleeder hose? im running just the cx h.e. all I have is a tiny hose that is maybe a couple inches on that nipple. what should I do? thanks
#36
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You have to keep a certain pressure just to keep the coolant moving smoothly.
Like a water hose in a system. No pressure you will pretty much get zero movement. The water pump moves the water by pressure. Pushing water molecules against each other to create the flow. This causes pressure.
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