cdettman

Safer to use Throttle Body Cleaner. Other types of cleaners like brake or engine cleaners might have chemicals that you don't want INSIDE your engine.

TB cleaner does the job and evaporates quickly (they still recommend waiting a while before reinstalling, just to be sure its all evaporated and fumes are gone... don't use water)

Sure, you might already have some brake/engine cleaner lying around, but go spend $5 on actual TB Cleaner and fix the problem without causing more problems.

Xenozx

it came back...... I heard it this morning. I will have to do a full clean I guess. Probably go at it this weekend. If that dont fix it I am taking it to the dealer.... Man this sucks, its cold out lol.

Xenozx

OK well problem came back even after a full clean. I mean the TB was totally spotless. Its actually getting worse. I have an appointment with the dealership for Friday.

My car will stall out now. and Ill also get "Engine Power Reduced" After this I pulled 2 CEL codes P2101 and P1681. Its messing with my idle and stuff, and its just getting worse. it doesnt sound like its the TB, but maybe the MOTOR that makes it move?

Sorry, 3 codes

P2101 - Powertrain: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance
p1681 - Driver 5 Line 1
P0068 - Powertrain: MAP/MAF – Throttle Position Correlation

Xenozx

just got off the phone with the dealership, they said they have no idea what would cause that. Said it wasnt happening for them and they where right because it wasnt there when i dropped it off...

now Im pissed, cause I want it fixed... I dont even know whats wrong....

can it be the motor that makes the TB open and close? How hard would that be to check/replace?

they want me to drop it off Sunday night since it seems to happen most often when its really cold and being started from a cold start. told him I would drop it off so they can check it monday.

Xenozx

OK, I got a call from my dealership today. After speaking with the guy he said there was a "PCM fix for this issue" and it was fixed under warranty. I dont know if that was a BS we cant fix it issue, or if that was actually the fix, but I guess we will find out when I pick it up tonight. I hope it fixed it and they just wernt blowing me off. The problem is I pull a high flow cat code P0420, and that was on there with the other codes. So he basically told me my aftermarket header should have voided my warranty, but they went ahead and fixed it anyway.

Bika

iTrader: (3)

aftermarket header cant **** up your tb. thats horse ****.

Xenozx

well ya, I dont know why. Rather then fix something, they would rather look for an easy way out, and look for every oppurtunity to blame an aftermarket part. its rediculous. Ive never gone into a dealer and not gotten flak for my aftermarket parts. i stopped going to one dealership because of the **** they tried to pin on my intake..... Here I am 3 years later, I guess thats proof enough they are idiots and dont know what they are doing....

Anyway, I got the paperwork from the dealerhsip. So far my car is running good, and it says they replaced:

Replaced teh power train control module

1.) 12597520 F-Module

Dunno what that is, but do you guys think it could have caused this problem, and by it being replaced, fixed it?

Bika

iTrader: (3)

possible. only way to know is if the problem/codes come back again.

Xenozx

ya, Im gonna keep an eye on it. So far so good, started her up this morning no problems. I guess we will see as it gets colder.

I did have some new CEL's after picking it up, I dont know if it was due to them or what not, but none the less I cleared them and we'll see if they come back...

Hopefully this is over with

Xenozx

well, hoped in my car today after getting off from work and guess what? Problem is still there... No cel's tho, but slightly rough idle still present, and loud noise under hood still present....

called and left VM for service tech, will await call tomorrow. I really hope this doesnt turn into some crazy drama about how my aftermarket parts are the easy scape goat, and they dont want to fix my ****...

Just another reason why I am looking away from a chevy car as my next purchase....

Xenozx

"well im packed, wont be able to look at it until tuesday do you want to bring it in then?"


GM service FTW!

Bika

iTrader: (3)

screw them. most likely the electronic TB is *****'d. easy fix

Xenozx

Well took my car in last night and dropped it off. Just got off the phone with my dealer he said he spoke to GM, and they said the throttle body isnt covered under the powertrain warranty. He said my throttle body needs replaced, that it was sticking. Said he spoke to GM, and they would do some deductible thing, where it would cost me $100 total to get it fixed and replaced. He told me the throttle body alone pricewise was 400 bucks.

does that sound right?

ShortStack

lmao.... no...

throttle body on ebay is like 75...

if its sticking, you can take it off and clean it with throttle body cleaner for about 8 dollars..

Xenozx

already did that. It was sparkling clean, and it was still sticking...

ShortStack

its probly the internals..

you can get one off of ebay for like 75 bucks..

but 100 from a dealer isnt that bad... just dont let them install it if there gonna charge you... its really easy to do.

Xenozx

Ya, he said 100 total, including labor, so i guess thats not so bad. I was just expecting it to be free, since I thought it would be covered under the power train warranty.

I guess what matters is my car will be fixed, so

PhantomSS

ugh wish i saw this, there is a hose that goes to your electronic boost sender that when it leaks or is disconnected does the same thing.

tb going bad is rofl. sorry i didnt see this earlier. Check the hoses.

Also if you dont believe me unplug the hose from the SC to the boost sender and listen to the marbles...then rev it and enjoy 5 psi.

csementuh

iTrader: (18)

The "marbles" in the blower is def the coupler or bearings...

The "clicking" noise he is describing is something with the TB rapidly opening and closing, likely because it's stuck or the motor is bad...

Time to upgrade to a LS4 TB!

Anyone have any info on the M62's bearings and the grease they need? I would like to fully rebuild my M62...

STS2/SS

Go to either ZZP's web site or intense's web site they both have a couple diffrent options...

csementuh

iTrader: (18)

^^ Yea I found the bearings on Intense's website and eBay... ZZP doesn't appear to carry the bearings...

I really just need to know what type of grease to use however... My car only has like 11,500 miles on it so I'm sure the bearings are fine. I would just like to clean it out and throw some grease in there...

Tazmanian_Dvl

This should shed some light on this for you. it's pretty common for the throttle body to get all gunked up. I'd say taking it off and cleaning it should be part of your normal maintenance routine

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ight=idle+cure

for those of you interested in a how to on the coupler change check out this video. It's a pretty good how to...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSsSctYvOoI

PhantomSS

coupler has the same amount of bearings as your muffler.

Please stfu and just unplug the hose from the SC to the boost sender and enjoy marbles sounding off. Plug it in and it goes away. My coupler was replaced about 20,000 miles ago.

If that isnt your issue then yes...it is the coupler.

csementuh

iTrader: (18)

K chief, reading > you... Nowhere in my post did I say anything about "coupler bearings"... You would see this if you noticed the useage of the "OR" in my post...

With that being said you are still a moron, as there are two bearings on the inlet side of the supercharger housing that support the two rotors... And yes, if they go bad they will make a clicking sound also. A very similar sound to the coupler going bad, which is on the snout side of the blower...

And ROFFLE ROFFLE WTF is a "boost sender"..??? Umm.. you mean the boost bypass actuator? Or what? What you are doing by unhooking that hose is the "boost bypass mod" which means the blower is closing off the internal boost bypass and making boost at idle... Which is dumb... And leaving that unhooked means you are constantly boosting which is bad...

Soo um before you post something retarded and then try to call out others who actually know WTF they are talking about you should check yourself... Have you ever even taken a M62 apart..? Apparently not...

PhantomSS

you are beyond help....just do your thing and disregard my "moronic statements"