Well, I finally blew up... Need advice
06-10-2010, 01:52 PM
#126
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Ray has got to be the best when it comes to the ecotec, hes proven that with his numbers. I could clearly see that just from talking to him. Thats why i choose him over darton back in 09.
When i did my block it was 2400 but i already had diamonds. So i would say all of your prices are right on the money.
Trust me it is well worth it, and dont bother wasting money on rods. The lsj rods will handle anything anyone on this site will throw at em. (generally speaking)
I run a very aggressive tune and dont even think twice about it, i know i've got a solid short block built by Ray.
Everyone you speak to will always only have good things to say about him and his work also, cant say that about any other ecotec builder i know of.
on a side note, i would like to see someone try the ZZP BSD instead of NBS. why spin something if you dont have to? Ray told me he used to make them but was concerned about the side loading on the bearing surface. He never had a failure but it was a concern of his. guys on the jbody forum have been running it for over 100k with no problems. but Ray just chooses not to make em anymore and offers NBS instead.
When i did my block it was 2400 but i already had diamonds. So i would say all of your prices are right on the money.
Trust me it is well worth it, and dont bother wasting money on rods. The lsj rods will handle anything anyone on this site will throw at em. (generally speaking)
I run a very aggressive tune and dont even think twice about it, i know i've got a solid short block built by Ray.
Everyone you speak to will always only have good things to say about him and his work also, cant say that about any other ecotec builder i know of.
on a side note, i would like to see someone try the ZZP BSD instead of NBS. why spin something if you dont have to? Ray told me he used to make them but was concerned about the side loading on the bearing surface. He never had a failure but it was a concern of his. guys on the jbody forum have been running it for over 100k with no problems. but Ray just chooses not to make em anymore and offers NBS instead.
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 06-10-2010 at 02:26 PM.
06-10-2010, 02:26 PM
#128
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to even get to the rods limits you would have to be race ported head with bigger vlvs, cams, and a turbo so big no one usually picks for a DD. so thats why i say "generally speaking" most builds wont reach the limits of the rods... unless someone plans on introducing NOS into the equation then rods would be a good choice. due to the instant hit of massive trq gains.
most builds are gonna look for 400whp 450max anything more than that is completely useless traction wise and the tranny will go first...
450whp and knowing your not gonna blow is about the best it gets with this car imo.
06-10-2010, 03:15 PM
#130
thats exactly why im weary of even trying to get to the 450 whp range.. thats all i need is for my trans to go.. and the crappy thing is, besides for getting the gears cryoed there isnt anything that i know of that you can do to make our trans stronger..
06-10-2010, 05:46 PM
#131
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shoot for 400-420whp and shift nice, use your power to make up for not "power shifting" and you will be fine.
in my car i set my wotbox nls time to like .700 of a second that way i could nls nice and slow but not lose boost. worked well for me and i never broke a tranny just a cpl axles here and there.
but my car makes a input shaft bearing noise on decel so its gotta be time for it to go soon. it was cool taking this car too its limits i dont regret it at all, i won a ton of races, got some cool vids, and now its time to move on to bigger and better (awd>rwd>fwd) it was fun i dont regret it.
im sure paul 06g85 feels the same way!
chris, dont feel like your wasting money on a engine for a car thats nearly maxxed out already, keep your head up and what you said. it would cost you almost as much for a short block as ray is charging you and you wont have to worry anymore. i know that was worth a million $ to me. i used to constantly shut down after 3rd cause i was way to nervous/affraid to grab 4th i always thought it would blow if i kept pushing it. now ill take this bitch on 1-4 pull to 8k in every gear and not even think twice about it. i would do it in 5th too but 4th at 8k rpm is almost 160mph thats way more than enough for me.
piece of mind is worth it all.
in my car i set my wotbox nls time to like .700 of a second that way i could nls nice and slow but not lose boost. worked well for me and i never broke a tranny just a cpl axles here and there.
but my car makes a input shaft bearing noise on decel so its gotta be time for it to go soon. it was cool taking this car too its limits i dont regret it at all, i won a ton of races, got some cool vids, and now its time to move on to bigger and better (awd>rwd>fwd) it was fun i dont regret it.
im sure paul 06g85 feels the same way!
chris, dont feel like your wasting money on a engine for a car thats nearly maxxed out already, keep your head up and what you said. it would cost you almost as much for a short block as ray is charging you and you wont have to worry anymore. i know that was worth a million $ to me. i used to constantly shut down after 3rd cause i was way to nervous/affraid to grab 4th i always thought it would blow if i kept pushing it. now ill take this bitch on 1-4 pull to 8k in every gear and not even think twice about it. i would do it in 5th too but 4th at 8k rpm is almost 160mph thats way more than enough for me.
piece of mind is worth it all.
06-10-2010, 08:35 PM
#132
Those are great words of encouragement.
I can probably come up with $3k to get this work done. However, if I do that then I will want to go twincharge next, which will be another $3500-$4000. Then a new clutch... You gotta pay to play that's for sure, but once it's all done and over with I'm sure it will be one hell of a time!
I can probably come up with $3k to get this work done. However, if I do that then I will want to go twincharge next, which will be another $3500-$4000. Then a new clutch... You gotta pay to play that's for sure, but once it's all done and over with I'm sure it will be one hell of a time!
06-10-2010, 08:51 PM
#133
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not that i don't think the stock lsj rods are tough enough but you could always...
Get the 2.2l forged rods from eagle for $300
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-s...ec-cobalt.html
and the 2.2l forged pistons from diamond or wiseco for $400-$500
you will have a kick ass set of rods a lot cheaper then whats out there right now. Not to mention the added benifit the longer rod, like:
Like less stress on the cylnder walls due to the piston will travel straighter in the bore
less stress on the piston skirt lbecause it will travel straighter in the bore
less stress on the cranck because you decrease rod angle
you slow the piston speed down
it will also give the engine the ability to rev faster and higher due to all the above
Get the 2.2l forged rods from eagle for $300
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-s...ec-cobalt.html
and the 2.2l forged pistons from diamond or wiseco for $400-$500
you will have a kick ass set of rods a lot cheaper then whats out there right now. Not to mention the added benifit the longer rod, like:
Like less stress on the cylnder walls due to the piston will travel straighter in the bore
less stress on the piston skirt lbecause it will travel straighter in the bore
less stress on the cranck because you decrease rod angle
you slow the piston speed down
it will also give the engine the ability to rev faster and higher due to all the above
stay away from the eagle chinese crap the stock rod is most likely stronger..
06-11-2010, 09:10 PM
#138
i went to walmart and got one of those plastic tote thingies lol.. it was a 35 gallon capacity.. i put my crank, rods, new pistons, rings, and oil squirters in there and sent it out. cost me 55 bucks to ship it ups ground and i think thats with a discount because my buddy hooked me up with shipping. as far as payment goes, obviously i had to use my credit card because im broke as **** but he just charged me 500 dollars for a deposit and i have to pay him the rest when its done. as far as i know, he should already have the new sleeves pressed in by monday so he'll be waiting on my parts.
06-12-2010, 04:28 PM
#141
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i went to walmart and got one of those plastic tote thingies lol.. it was a 35 gallon capacity.. i put my crank, rods, new pistons, rings, and oil squirters in there and sent it out. cost me 55 bucks to ship it ups ground and i think thats with a discount because my buddy hooked me up with shipping. as far as payment goes, obviously i had to use my credit card because im broke as **** but he just charged me 500 dollars for a deposit and i have to pay him the rest when its done. as far as i know, he should already have the new sleeves pressed in by monday so he'll be waiting on my parts.
06-12-2010, 08:07 PM
#142
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I'm in that crew as well. You won't regret it. The peace of mind is worth the money. I'm supercharged now, moving up to a turbo setup eventually. And believe me, I'm going to use every bit of boost I can without pushing the rest of the drivetrain too far. At least the engine is damn near bulletproof.
06-15-2010, 02:47 PM
#144
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You guys need to read the original Ecotec build publication... way before the build book
Of course if I need a build, I'll still go for Bates, but for reasonable power goals, the solution described may work and be a lot cheaper
Of course if I need a build, I'll still go for Bates, but for reasonable power goals, the solution described may work and be a lot cheaper
06-17-2010, 10:56 AM
#146
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But for us already busted sleeve guys, I think it's just time to go ahead and resleeve the block with something stronger.
06-17-2010, 03:38 PM
#147
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i dont know cause all my logs i was on the big turbo, never pushed it past 7500 on the 20g
06-17-2010, 03:44 PM
#148
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I ran up that high with just valve springs. I'm sure you will be good with all that extra security.
But really, there isn't a need to shift that high 'cept for the 1-2 shift.
But really, there isn't a need to shift that high 'cept for the 1-2 shift.
06-17-2010, 04:44 PM
#150
thats what i was running up to. had my limiter set at 8192 and it never nosed over, kept pulling all the way. but on the 20g i would shift at 7500 as it might start to run out of breath that high.
i dont know cause all my logs i was on the big turbo, never pushed it past 7500 on the 20g
i dont know cause all my logs i was on the big turbo, never pushed it past 7500 on the 20g
Last edited by VeNoM0713; 06-17-2010 at 04:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost